Infra Red Plip Query

davetd · Post by **davetd** » 13 May 2006, 14:16

Afternoon all

When you buy a second hand plip from a scrappy, can you erase the old code by removing the battery? or can you blank it another way. I've put brand new batteries in it and done the procedure as described on this site but to no avail. Its on a 93 Xantia (infra red, 2 buttons).

Cheers

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 May 2006, 15:18

No -

Its the other way round. The hand unit is born with a code - and then the in-car receiver unit will adapt to that code usiing the special procedure found here on the forum. You will need the ignition key in the appliance (or service) position to do this
Meaning you can not have 2 different hand units - as you then will have to switch code every time you use "the other one".

Post by **xantia_v6** » 13 May 2006, 15:32

Meaning you can not have 2 different hand units - as you then will have to switch code every time you use "the other one".

That is not correct, the reciever has at least 2 storage locations for codes. When you reprogram with a new plip, it is easy to fill both stores with the same code, so it forgets any previous plip, but with care you can get it to remember 2 plips.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 May 2006, 15:57

xantia_v6 wrote:
Meaning you can not have 2 different hand units - as you then will have to switch code every time you use "the other one".
That is not correct, the reciever has at least 2 storage locations for codes. When you reprogram with a new plip, it is easy to fill both stores with the same code, so it forgets any previous plip, but with care you can get it to remember 2 plips.

Ahaaa... 8)

davetd · Post by **davetd** » 13 May 2006, 17:31

How many pins should there be on the infra red reciever box connecter. I've got 4 and a stump.

The plug has 5 holes in it.......

PowerLee · Post by **PowerLee** » 13 May 2006, 18:15

Only ever seen 4 wires to an infra red plip in the cars & on the drawings

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 May 2006, 20:01

PowerLee wrote:Only ever seen 4 wires to an infra red plip in the cars & on the drawings

+12V feed
chassis earth
lock
unlock

davetd · Post by **davetd** » 13 May 2006, 20:39

So why won't it work

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 13 May 2006, 21:38

AndersDK wrote:
PowerLee wrote:Only ever seen 4 wires to an infra red plip in the cars & on the drawings
+12V feed
chassis earth
lock
unlock

Sorry, wrong again Anders

The five connections on the infrared receiver are:

+12v direct
+12v via ignition key
earth
door locks (signal produced by button A)
deadlocks/alarm (signal produced by button B)

(on a car without alarm or deadlocks the 5th wire for deadlocks/alarms may be missing from the cabling, but the feature still exists in the receiver)

Both output signals are floating open collector outputs which have pullup resistors somewhere in the central locking system which the receiver connects to.

(EG when testing the receiver out on a test bench by itself, pullup resistors need to be connected to these outputs)

Each output pulses to ground for half a second when it's respective function is pressed on the remote. Even cars without an alarm still have this second output on the receiver, although it doesn't go anywhere.

The simple nature of the output means if you fitted a 3rd party alarm you could easily utilize this alarm arming output signal from the receiver by obtaining a two button remote.

The reason for two +12v feeds, is the permanent one is used to allow the receiver to work when the key is off (of course) and the ignition switch +12v is used to tell the receiver when the key is turned on, to put it into programming mode. (So if this latter signal was missing, the receiver would work, but be impossible to re-program....)

Regards,
Simon

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 13 May 2006, 21:42

davetd wrote:So why won't it work

Well, have you tried the programing procedure ?

Does the red light on the side of the plip work ? If you have a digital camera, try pointing the infrared LED on the plip into the camera, this will show you whether it is working or not.

There is a little bit of debate on the best procedure, but here is the one that worked for me:

Turn the ignition on to accessory, then immediately hold the plip within a couple of inches of the dome in the ceiling and press and release the button about once per second for about 30 times, then turn the key off, and test it.

If you're programing 2 plips at once, then do the same thing but press the button on each plip alternatively.

If you don't have success immediately, try again a few times, I had to try a couple of times before I succeeded. Try varying how fast you press the button and how many times.

Failing that, the receiver unit in the car could be faulty.

Regards,
Simon

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 13 May 2006, 21:56

davetd wrote:How many pins should there be on the infra red reciever box connecter. I've got 4 and a stump. The plug has 5 holes in it.......

Whoa there... just noticed this.... a stump ? As in a wire cut from the plug ? Or one of the pins broken on the receiver ?

If that is the +12v ignition switched feed it will make it impossible to program the unit. (At least by turning on the key)

If you have a multimeter try measuring from the chassis to each pin on the plug, and see if you can find both a permanent +12v (which is there with the key on or off) and on another pin, a switchable +12v, which only comes on with the ignition key.

If that latter signal is the one going to the "stump" that may be why it wont program.

All 3 Xantia's in our family have FIVE wires going to the receiver, even though only one of the cars has an alarm...

Regards,
Simon

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 May 2006, 22:13

Mandrake wrote:
AndersDK wrote:
PowerLee wrote:Only ever seen 4 wires to an infra red plip in the cars & on the drawings
+12V feed
chassis earth
lock
unlock
Sorry, wrong again Anders

The five connections on the infrared receiver are:

+12v direct
+12v via ignition key
earth
door locks (signal produced by button A)
deadlocks/alarm (signal produced by button B)

Dont have much luck - do I ?

Pin 1 : chassis earth
Pin 2 : +12V igniton key via fuse F30
Pin 3 : NOT connected on Mk1 - deadlocks on Mk2
Pin 4 : lock/unlock
Pin 5 : live +12V via fuses F25 & F8

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 13 May 2006, 23:09

AndersDK wrote:Dont have much luck - do I ?

Not today

Pin 1 : chassis earth
Pin 2 : +12V igniton key via fuse F30
Pin 3 : NOT connected on Mk1 - deadlocks on Mk2
Pin 4 : lock/unlock
Pin 5 : live +12V via fuses F25 & F8

I didn't give the pin numberings as although I had worked them out myself when trying to fix the receiver in Dad's car I lost the piece of paper which I wrote them on...

However, where do you get the information that pin 3 is not used on Mk1's ? All three of our Xantia's are Mk1's, and they have this signal.

That would imply that the Mk1's never had a two button remote control, which is incorrect - even the manual for my mum's 1993 model shows both a one button and two button remote control as possibilities, and her's also has an alarm which does NOT arm with the main doorlock button.

So I would suggest that pin 3 is in use on cars with alarm or deadlocks

(In any case, by aquiring a two button remote control this pin can be put to use and connected to a 3rd party alarm, as all the receivers support it)

Regards,
Simon

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 13 May 2006, 23:32

From the BOL electric diagrams - Mk1 & Mk2.

YES - I know - that you instantly will be protesting : BOL ???

davetd · Post by **davetd** » 14 May 2006, 13:19

Anders, Mandrake;

I have 5 wires going to my receiver. The broken pin on the receiver's socket relates to the grey wire on the plug