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rossnunn
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Quick Q

Post by rossnunn »

Blue Xant is squeeking from the back when cornering, something to do with the oxidation between the caliper & the carrier?? I can't remeber for looking, is it a big job? I don't really want to strip the rear off currantly my only working car & either break or find out I need parts.

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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Better get started as its one of those things quickly growing into greef ...

One evening labouring on the problem finishes the job no problem I believe.
Unless you snap the caliper bolts ...

PS : If you dont already have an impact screwdriver - get one. Its perfect for the disc retaining screws. And its got a ½ inch square drive perfect for your 17mm socket - to shock those caliper bolts :wink:
Really is a great tool at some 5quid
Last edited by AndersDK on 11 Apr 2006, 21:57, edited 1 time in total.
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rossnunn
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Post by rossnunn »

so is the biggest prob (other than the caliper bolts - my trusty wizzzy gun 'should' rattle those out) seperating the caliper from the carrier?
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Post by AndersDK »

You got a wizzy gun ?

Get started mate - wont take you an hour then :lol:
Yes - remove caliper complete with pads left in. Then unwind the brake feed pipe as you now have a really good control on the union - can wind the whole caliper body to the pipe if needs be.
Clean mating faces caliper & rear arm. Seal with body mass or heavy grease - reassemble. Get a beer.
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rossnunn
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Post by rossnunn »

lol right sounds like a plan, beers are in the fridge, now when is my next day off........












Cheers for that I'll report back when I'm done
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Post by deian »

friday
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Post by rossnunn »

hey yes its good friday! aah hang on it'll be raining then lol
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Post by RichardW »

I'd go steady with a windy gun on the caliper bolts. They stick right though the caliper, and get rusty on the back end of the bolt - careless use of a windy gun might just snap them off. Better to go with a breaker bar and go steady, working them in and out with penetrant on the ends to make sure they don't break off. What you might find though is that if you are getting on / off squeaking, the rust may already have snapped one of the bolts. You might need to get the pads out first, then refit the pad bolt, otherwise the caliper won't come off over the disc. It's likely that that disc and pads are worn well off square, and will need to be replaced anyway. The 'screw' on the rear discs is actually a bolt, but the flats are likely to be long gone. I think I filed some new flats on - again, go steady! It should be possible without disconnecting the brake pipe - if you do, make sure you go very steady with the bleed nipples - penetrant, heat, tap on the end, 6 sided ring spanner or socket, and gently knock the end of the spanner with your hand - if it won't go easily, more heat and penetrant (not at the same time, it gives you crusty eye brows :oops: ) - you will get them out, but it will take time and patience!
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Post by RoadkillUK »

Took me 3 days to sort out my rear calipers. Firstly ALL 4 caliper bolts snapped, had to drill out 3 of them, order replacements from Citroen. Got sold the wrong drill for the tap and drilled the holes so big that the tap fell through.
Ended up using V-Coil to fix it. What a PITA. I'd recommend that you ALL check the rear calipers for oxidisation as mine were at quite an angle from the trailing arm and the rear brakes WERE NOT working.

Other than that, not a difficult job :)
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Post by AndersDK »

RoadkillUK wrote:Took me 3 days to sort out my rear calipers. Firstly ALL 4 caliper bolts snapped, had to drill out 3 of them, order replacements from Citroen. Got sold the wrong drill for the tap and drilled the holes so big that the tap fell through.
Ended up using V-Coil to fix it. What a PITA. I'd recommend that you ALL check the rear calipers for oxidisation as mine were at quite an angle from the trailing arm and the rear brakes WERE NOT working.

Other than that, not a difficult job :)
But we all service the brakes on our cars at least once a year - dont we ?
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