I've Got Stuck Fitting Timing Belt (Now Completed)
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citroenbx
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I've Got Stuck Fitting Timing Belt (Now Completed)
Just changed the Timing Belt on my ZX 1.9TD....
I started like i always do locking the pulleys and crankshaft.
My first job was to Replace all the rollers with new.After fitting the new belt the way i always do i noticed it was a bit slack.The new Tensioner Pulley could be causing this so read the Haynes Manual turned the engine over by hand then slackened off the tensioner the belt seemed to adjust itself and was no longer slackish.
As a final check i always insert bolts back into cam/fuel pump pulleys and then check the flywheel locks. Bingo not so.
Now i can get the flywheel to lock but the Pulley holes for cam and fuel pump dont align or i can lock the cam/fuel pump pulleys but cannot lock the flywheel ...whats wrong ?
Could the belt have slipped and if so what do i do now ?
Many thanks
I started like i always do locking the pulleys and crankshaft.
My first job was to Replace all the rollers with new.After fitting the new belt the way i always do i noticed it was a bit slack.The new Tensioner Pulley could be causing this so read the Haynes Manual turned the engine over by hand then slackened off the tensioner the belt seemed to adjust itself and was no longer slackish.
As a final check i always insert bolts back into cam/fuel pump pulleys and then check the flywheel locks. Bingo not so.
Now i can get the flywheel to lock but the Pulley holes for cam and fuel pump dont align or i can lock the cam/fuel pump pulleys but cannot lock the flywheel ...whats wrong ?
Could the belt have slipped and if so what do i do now ?
Many thanks
Last edited by citroenbx on 10 Apr 2006, 18:38, edited 1 time in total.
Life feels good just as you complete No4 Glow Plug on a ZX-TD
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AndersDK
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... make all 3 lock holes align inserting pins - just like when you started the whole thing. Remember the cam & pump will pass their lock holes twice - for one pass of the flywheel lock hole
- meaning if you cant find the flywheel lock when cam & pump are locked - then unlock cam & pump and turn belt until cam & pump aligns again
If still no luck then try if just one (or 2) cogg(s) on the belt would do it - as then you have indeed got a belt offset into your work
Have you had a doze of easter brew ?
- meaning if you cant find the flywheel lock when cam & pump are locked - then unlock cam & pump and turn belt until cam & pump aligns again
If still no luck then try if just one (or 2) cogg(s) on the belt would do it - as then you have indeed got a belt offset into your work
Have you had a doze of easter brew ?
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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citroenbx
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Thanks AndersDK i know i cannot now get all 3 to lock together so something has gone wrong.
If i lock the Flywheel and hand turn the Cam and Pump pulleys back a few notch's and lock them all ,will this do.
I've done 2 ZX's before and not had a problem but then again never had to change any rollers as well has a Timing Belt.
Cheers for now realy worried about starting engine
If i lock the Flywheel and hand turn the Cam and Pump pulleys back a few notch's and lock them all ,will this do.
I've done 2 ZX's before and not had a problem but then again never had to change any rollers as well has a Timing Belt.
Cheers for now realy worried about starting engine
Life feels good just as you complete No4 Glow Plug on a ZX-TD
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Dave Burns
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Better have a rethink about that one AndersAndersDK wrote:Remember the cam & pump will pass their lock holes twice - for one pass of the flywheel lock hole
Going by what you say citbx you have also changed the fixed idler roller, but it doesn't sound like you got it's position correct.
You need to start again, advance the crankshaft untill the holes in the camshaft and pump sprocket line up perfectly, so the bolts are dead centered in the holes, pull the tensioning roller away from the belt and lock it back, now slowly turn the crank backwards untill its peg (8mm diameter) will slide in.
Now you should have noticed that the holes in the bracket of the fixed roller are much larger than the bolts, this gives a degree or two of adjustment.
Now if the belt is in the correct position, just slacken the bolts holding the roller in place and using firm hand force only, push the roller tight against the belt and nip it up, the belt should now be taught on the whole of its front run, if not reposition the belt and the fixed roller untill this is achieved.
Ease the tensioner roller down onto the belt, (don't just let it thump down by loosening the pinch bolt) and lock it, turn the engine a couple of times by hand (do this with the cranshaft auxiliary belt pulley in position because this controls the position of the timing belt over the other pulleys) turn the engine slowly until the crankshaft peg drops in, do not allow the engine to turn backwards at all during this phase, the peg must go in during slow forward movement of the crank, this keeps the front run of the belt correctly tensioned.
Loosen the tensioner and then retighten it, check the timing holes all line up correctly, job done.
Just remember that if you allow the engine to turn backwards during final setting of the belt, you will introduce slack in the front run of the belt that will not be taken up by the tensioner. it will only take the slack out of the back run of the belt.
Dave
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citroenbx
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Hi there Dave....I think i have realised my mistake.......When i fit the new tensioner roller i didn't lock it back...i got my wife at the last minute to lever the roller back giving my a bit of slack to fit the belt.
I think this is where the problems started the belt wasn't taught......I manualy turned the engine over then tried to insert all my pins...for the first time ever i couldn't get all three in.
I could get the pulleys but not the crank and visa versa.
So if i re lock the pulleys which i have done with the new belt on then remove the belt and turn the crack back a touch to lock it...I'm sure this is all it needs.....Will this be safe.
All noted re-engine travel
Thanks Guys
I think this is where the problems started the belt wasn't taught......I manualy turned the engine over then tried to insert all my pins...for the first time ever i couldn't get all three in.
I could get the pulleys but not the crank and visa versa.
So if i re lock the pulleys which i have done with the new belt on then remove the belt and turn the crack back a touch to lock it...I'm sure this is all it needs.....Will this be safe.
All noted re-engine travel
Thanks Guys
Life feels good just as you complete No4 Glow Plug on a ZX-TD
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Peter.N.
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reblack68
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If the belt is fitted with the cam and crank pulleys locked it should be safe. Whenever I need to be reassured about valve timing I wind the engine around a couple of revolutions by hand with a socket on the crank pulley. You should hear/feel if there's contact.
Richard
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
No French cars of my own at present.
Care of a 1994 205 D.
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AndersDK
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Yeah - I had my dozeeeee o'feaster brewwwww todayy mayyyteDave Burns wrote:Better have a rethink about that one AndersAndersDK wrote:Remember the cam & pump will pass their lock holes twice - for one pass of the flywheel lock hole![]()
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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citroenbx
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AndersDK
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AnyoneAndersDK wrote:Yeah - I had my dozeeeee o'feaster brewwwww todayy mayyyteDave Burns wrote:Better have a rethink about that one AndersAndersDK wrote:Remember the cam & pump will pass their lock holes twice - for one pass of the flywheel lock hole![]()
letsee ifs omeon eels willc atcht hato ne
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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BonceChops
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AndersDK
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alan s
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Well spoken from a gent who last night was heard to sayAndersDK wrote:Neil -
You are hereby allowed to get yourself a beer from your fridge
Yeah - I had my dozeeeee o'feaster brewwwww todayy mayyyte Laughing letsee ifs omeon eels willc atcht hato ne
Alan S
RIP Sept 19th 2008.
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
She said "Put the cat out" She didn't mention it was on fire!!
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ACTIVE8
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BonceChops
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