Xantia TD Throttle cable
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RichardW
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Xantia TD Throttle cable
Looking under the bonnet at the weekend I see the throttle cable is starting to fray at the pump end. According to the BOL the cable is removed by pulling it into the car - but mines got the big cylindrical bit (compensator according to pr.net) attached to the air box, which definitely won't go through the bulkhead - but then pr.net suggests this is separate to the cable. Anybody changed one / know how the compensator works / is attached to the cable? I foresee another fun weekend crouching in the foot well
Richard W
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BonceChops
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When my nipple snapped off at the pump end of the cable I had to make a temporary repair. I trimmed 30mm or so from the outer cable and used the inside of an electrical block connector as a nipple. Just removed the 2 screws and pushed the metal bit out, then slid over the end of the inner cable and secured with both screws. It was still like that 2 years later when it went to the big breaakers yard in the sky 
It's not the first time I have used a connector block to repair a throttle cable at the side of the road - just a handy hint incase anyones snaps while away from home.
It's not the first time I have used a connector block to repair a throttle cable at the side of the road - just a handy hint incase anyones snaps while away from home.Neil
Now Citrtoenless
Now Citrtoenless
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Kowalski
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The inner has to be pulled through the bulkhead, but the outer does not. Where the cable goes through the bulkhead there is a big rubber grommit, it has a metal spring clip that holds the outer to the grommit (stops it going through the bulkhead). If you remove the inner, then remove this metal clip the outer will be free.
The outer pushes into the spring cannister type thing, thats the "big cylindrical bit", it will pull out of it but it might take a bit of force. There is an end bit to it that pulled off when I tried to get the outer out of mine, but that just pushed back on.
One tip I'll give you is that when you cut the new outer, you tend to bend the end of it, so I ground this flat again (using a bench grinder) so that it would go into the spring cannister and elsewhere without sticking / snagging.
GSF do a fairly comprehensive kit that includes rubber bits, end bits, inner, outer cable and liner that you'll need to replace the cable. Some people have replaced just the inner cable using a bike brake / gear cable but I'd recommend changing the liner too because mine had worn through. The liner is the same liner that mig welders use on their wire feed cables so it should be reasonably easy to get hold of.
The outer pushes into the spring cannister type thing, thats the "big cylindrical bit", it will pull out of it but it might take a bit of force. There is an end bit to it that pulled off when I tried to get the outer out of mine, but that just pushed back on.
One tip I'll give you is that when you cut the new outer, you tend to bend the end of it, so I ground this flat again (using a bench grinder) so that it would go into the spring cannister and elsewhere without sticking / snagging.
GSF do a fairly comprehensive kit that includes rubber bits, end bits, inner, outer cable and liner that you'll need to replace the cable. Some people have replaced just the inner cable using a bike brake / gear cable but I'd recommend changing the liner too because mine had worn through. The liner is the same liner that mig welders use on their wire feed cables so it should be reasonably easy to get hold of.