Hi, found this site whilst looking for a radiator for my wifes L reg Xantia 1.9TD.
Hopefully A/S is the place ? how much ?, has anyone bought one lately
Bought it off my cousin 4 years ago at 75,000 miles as he had it from new as a company car, it has now done 107,000 mls.
All ive done is change oil and filters apart from fitting a new sus pump last year, the spheres were changed during the ownership of my cous .
During pump change i cannot remember reading about any filters in the system....could someone enlighten me please.
When standing on an uphill drive there is constant noise.....like the suspension is constantly adjusting...is this normal ?
Also, the headlights are pretty poor compared to my Renault Laguna.....???.
I presume most of these things have been covered in the forum...if you are thinking ..."oh no ! , not again, then could some kind soul please direct me with a link.
Is there anything i should have done in the last 35,000 miles ?
Thanks for reading, look forward to some advice
regards
Andrew
growing up is mandatory......growing UP is optional
new member
Moderator: RichardW
Hi Andrew,
Welcome to the forum.
Firstly, your enquiries regarding parts prices & availability should be directed to Andyspares via the "on-line shop" or catalogue which you will find on the homepage as nobody on here is employed by Andys apart from Jon who is in I/T Admin & not the parts section.
As regards you problems; the suspension sounding as though it's adjusting when parked uphill I think needs some clarification. What mekes you think this? If it's constant clicking, you may have a dodgt accumulator sphere but a more detailed description should cover that.
The filters referred to normally are the ones in the LHM tank that get full of a black almost powdery contamination which eminates from the system during operation. If not cleaned, they can cause problems with operation and in any case, an LHM change without cleaning filters is almost akin to having a cuppa without rinsing it or getting rid of the dregs in the bottom.
Headlights? I really don't know what to say on this one. You're right we have had a few postings on this subject & in all honesty I've never been involved mainly due to having owned a lot of Cits which have had brilliant headlights although some have not started out this way. One of my sons bought a BX TZi earlier this year & the lights were atrocious. I live in Oz and in an area that at times can have the stereotypical kangaroos running down & across the roads you're travelling on & those big ones 6 foot+ can demolish a car faster than a steam roller if you hit one. As a result, good lights are a necessity. I've found in most cases I've struck, adjusting is the key. Too many are set too low and square lights do tend to cut off abruptly at the far edge. I always adjust my lights with the nearside fairly high but angled slightly left so it shines towards the roadside & not at oncoming cars. The drivers side I adjust lower than the other & point the outside of the beam at just inside the white line. Both of these allow for a higher than normal setting without blinding the drivers of oncoming cars, illuminate the road edges which gives greater safety to any pedestrians/cyclists or parked vehicles, particularly in bad weather, allows for (in my case) vision of animals on the roadside, spots the illuminated jacket of police patrols with radar on the side of the road (fringe benefit) and gives a better all over vision. It may be that you could have an electrical problem but this may be worth a try as this costs nothing to achieve.
As far as checking o general problems go, check out "Common Problems & fixes" forum or just go to "search" at the top of the page & put in key word & see what happens. There's a lot on interesting material archived in here. It's just a case of finding it.
Best of luck.
Alan S
Welcome to the forum.
Firstly, your enquiries regarding parts prices & availability should be directed to Andyspares via the "on-line shop" or catalogue which you will find on the homepage as nobody on here is employed by Andys apart from Jon who is in I/T Admin & not the parts section.
As regards you problems; the suspension sounding as though it's adjusting when parked uphill I think needs some clarification. What mekes you think this? If it's constant clicking, you may have a dodgt accumulator sphere but a more detailed description should cover that.
The filters referred to normally are the ones in the LHM tank that get full of a black almost powdery contamination which eminates from the system during operation. If not cleaned, they can cause problems with operation and in any case, an LHM change without cleaning filters is almost akin to having a cuppa without rinsing it or getting rid of the dregs in the bottom.
Headlights? I really don't know what to say on this one. You're right we have had a few postings on this subject & in all honesty I've never been involved mainly due to having owned a lot of Cits which have had brilliant headlights although some have not started out this way. One of my sons bought a BX TZi earlier this year & the lights were atrocious. I live in Oz and in an area that at times can have the stereotypical kangaroos running down & across the roads you're travelling on & those big ones 6 foot+ can demolish a car faster than a steam roller if you hit one. As a result, good lights are a necessity. I've found in most cases I've struck, adjusting is the key. Too many are set too low and square lights do tend to cut off abruptly at the far edge. I always adjust my lights with the nearside fairly high but angled slightly left so it shines towards the roadside & not at oncoming cars. The drivers side I adjust lower than the other & point the outside of the beam at just inside the white line. Both of these allow for a higher than normal setting without blinding the drivers of oncoming cars, illuminate the road edges which gives greater safety to any pedestrians/cyclists or parked vehicles, particularly in bad weather, allows for (in my case) vision of animals on the roadside, spots the illuminated jacket of police patrols with radar on the side of the road (fringe benefit) and gives a better all over vision. It may be that you could have an electrical problem but this may be worth a try as this costs nothing to achieve.
As far as checking o general problems go, check out "Common Problems & fixes" forum or just go to "search" at the top of the page & put in key word & see what happens. There's a lot on interesting material archived in here. It's just a case of finding it.
Best of luck.
Alan S
Thanks Alan, i hardly drive the Xantia, so i really must have a good ride round in it this w'end and identify potential problems, my wife would'nt know if everything felt o/k or not....it was only when i borrowed it the other week and found a sqeezy bottle with water in it that i found out the washers had not worked for quite a while (i fixed them same day ).....she said she'd told me a while ago but did'nt think i was too bothered.......feel guilty now !, so i'd better get it back to near 100% as i can.
btw just had a 3 week hol in Melbourne.....first time visit, had a great time....can't recall seeing a single Citroen
regards
Andrew
growing up is mandatory......growing UP is optional
btw just had a 3 week hol in Melbourne.....first time visit, had a great time....can't recall seeing a single Citroen
regards
Andrew
growing up is mandatory......growing UP is optional
-
RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 10871
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: MK2 '17 C4GP 1.6 BlueHDi 120
'13 3008 1.6 HDi GripControl - x 996
Xantia dip lights are poor by design - fit Phillips Vision Plus Bulbs for a massive improvement (£19.50/pair from www.powerbulbs.com).
I think Alan has covered the rest!
Richard
I think Alan has covered the rest!
Richard
-
Jon
Xantia TD Radiator for L reg car is our part N17368 and the price is £82.50 plus VAT.
Jon Wood
forum@andyspares.com
Jon Wood
forum@andyspares.com
Headlight adjustment.
This seems to be a topic that is seldom discussed and is left to garages who have expensive machinery to do it with.
In fact it is quite easy to get an adjustment that is probably much better than what you have. All you need is access to a fence at the end of about 40 ft of level yard. This is best done in the dark naturally. Simply drive the car right up to the fence and turn on the main beams. Put a coat over one light and carefully place a piece of tape on the fence in line with the centre of the other main beam lens unit. Place the coat over other light and do the same for the exposed light.
Now remove your coat, drive the car STRAIGHT backwards for 25 feet or so, cover one light and adjust the other so that the centre of the tape is illuminated by the centre of the beam. Reverse the procedure for the other light and I expect you will be surprised at the results. I did the lights on the wife's ZX last week and much to my surprise the cut off on dip is now in a straight line with no step in the beam from one side to the other, with a nice kick up on the near side to illuminate pedestrians and cyclists.
On a combined main and dip unit if you get the main beam correct the dip (which is much more difficult to adjust on its own) will automatically be correct.
This method will give you a good starting point and you can then go for the refinements suggested above.
This seems to be a topic that is seldom discussed and is left to garages who have expensive machinery to do it with.
In fact it is quite easy to get an adjustment that is probably much better than what you have. All you need is access to a fence at the end of about 40 ft of level yard. This is best done in the dark naturally. Simply drive the car right up to the fence and turn on the main beams. Put a coat over one light and carefully place a piece of tape on the fence in line with the centre of the other main beam lens unit. Place the coat over other light and do the same for the exposed light.
Now remove your coat, drive the car STRAIGHT backwards for 25 feet or so, cover one light and adjust the other so that the centre of the tape is illuminated by the centre of the beam. Reverse the procedure for the other light and I expect you will be surprised at the results. I did the lights on the wife's ZX last week and much to my surprise the cut off on dip is now in a straight line with no step in the beam from one side to the other, with a nice kick up on the near side to illuminate pedestrians and cyclists.
On a combined main and dip unit if you get the main beam correct the dip (which is much more difficult to adjust on its own) will automatically be correct.
This method will give you a good starting point and you can then go for the refinements suggested above.