bleeding and changing accumulator sphere q's?
Moderator: RichardW
bleeding and changing accumulator sphere q's?
here goes... on the pressure regulator i see four bolts. two top, two bottom ones, which one is the bleed valve, i'm guessing the top one further from the sphere?
so the procedure is... , put steering wheel on full lock to the right, loosen sphere ("crack") with suspension on highest first, then lower suspension with engine running, when lowest switch off engine, (bleed?) replace sphere, make sure seals are removed and replaced, screw new one on hand tight, start engine, do citrobeotics 99 times, bleed on way up, then bob is very much my uncle?
do i need to bleed first? (when the engine is swithced off on lowest?) and when exactly after?
i'm doing it now, so exciting.
thanks, i will check for replies after food.
so the procedure is... , put steering wheel on full lock to the right, loosen sphere ("crack") with suspension on highest first, then lower suspension with engine running, when lowest switch off engine, (bleed?) replace sphere, make sure seals are removed and replaced, screw new one on hand tight, start engine, do citrobeotics 99 times, bleed on way up, then bob is very much my uncle?
do i need to bleed first? (when the engine is swithced off on lowest?) and when exactly after?
i'm doing it now, so exciting.
thanks, i will check for replies after food.
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I think the bleed is the only 12mm head bolt on the pump. I just lowered the car to the lowest setting with the car running. Then switch of engine and open bleed 1/4 turn. You will hear the oil go back to tank. Then remove accumulator and refit new. Making sure the sealing face is clean and the seal is fitted. Close bleed and start car.
Neil
Now Citrtoenless
Now Citrtoenless
i've been doing it from the top, i think i will need a proper strap wrench, i thought i could get away with a decent oil filter wrench.
anyway, my question is... you (peter.n) said bleed from the regulator, and (bonechops) said from the pump, as far as i understand i think the regulator is what i need to bleed, not the pump (can anyone confirm this).
Also there are four bolts on the regulator, which one do I bleed? 4 bolts, can anyone tell me which one?
thanks
anyway, my question is... you (peter.n) said bleed from the regulator, and (bonechops) said from the pump, as far as i understand i think the regulator is what i need to bleed, not the pump (can anyone confirm this).
Also there are four bolts on the regulator, which one do I bleed? 4 bolts, can anyone tell me which one?
thanks
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I think that was a slip of the keyboard with bonce chops, the de-pressurising screw is on the front of the regulator. Yes, you will need a good strap wrench, I have one made from a section of double motorbike chain and even that struggles sometimes. If its really stubborn, you may have to take a cold chisel to the weld around the equator, a good sharp blow in the direction of unscrewing should free it.....I have been known to take the regulator off and put it in the vice!
The bleed bolt is by itself, just below the sphere, its 12mm. You will see it projects from the regulator facing forward.
The bleed bolt is by itself, just below the sphere, its 12mm. You will see it projects from the regulator facing forward.
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your better off with a chain wrench not a strap,my chain wrench is a 30cm stanley pipe wrench it cost me around £30 some years back now,also before you fit the new sphere you must dip your finger in LHM and run it around the matting face of the seal,otherwise when you snug the sphere up it can puker up the seal,then it will leak
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
Tip!
Make sure the regulator is firmly bolted down before trying to unscrew the sphere... any movement in the regulator will put strain on the hydraulic pipes attached to it..... especially if employing 'shock tactics' with a cold chisel (my preferred method)
Make sure the regulator is firmly bolted down before trying to unscrew the sphere... any movement in the regulator will put strain on the hydraulic pipes attached to it..... especially if employing 'shock tactics' with a cold chisel (my preferred method)
Ian
Account Ref: 6419
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Account Ref: 6419
Current Cars
Nissan X-Trail SVE
Saab 2.2TiD
Merc E270 Estate
Past Citroens
2001 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1999 Xantia 1.9TD
1997 Xantia 3.0 Exclusive
1995 XM 3.0 Exclusive Estate
And good luck to removing it from the top - IMHO this is simply not possible using any kind of strap or chain wrench etc, in my experience the accumulator sphere must be removed from the BOTTOM, which means driving the front of the car up onto ramps...
There is no room to get a good swing between the radiator and the engine from the top side, if the sphere is even remotely tight. Probably the only approach that might work from the top would be the hammer and chisel approach but I would use that as a last resort.
And this is on a petrol engine where there is plenty of gap between the engine and the radiator. Does your 2.1TD have lots of pipes etc in the way behind the radiator like the 1.9TD does ? If it does, then you definately have to do it from underneath...
Regards,
Simon
There is no room to get a good swing between the radiator and the engine from the top side, if the sphere is even remotely tight. Probably the only approach that might work from the top would be the hammer and chisel approach but I would use that as a last resort.
And this is on a petrol engine where there is plenty of gap between the engine and the radiator. Does your 2.1TD have lots of pipes etc in the way behind the radiator like the 1.9TD does ? If it does, then you definately have to do it from underneath...
Regards,
Simon
Simon
1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
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1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
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1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
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1997 Xantia S1 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive in Silex Grey
2016 Nissan Leaf Tekna 30kWh in White
2011 Peugeot Ion Full Electric in Silver
1977 G Special 1129cc LHD
1978 CX 2400
1997 Xantia S1 2.0i Auto VSX
1998 Xantia S2 3.0 V6 Auto Exclusive