Xantia front suspension noise

harryb.48 · Post by **harryb.48** » 10 Mar 2006, 10:05

Things appeared to be going well recently with my Xantia but it has recently developed a noise from the front left hand suspension strut area.

I have always kept them well lubricated by removing the gaiter and applying grease internally.
The noise is a kind of rubbery squeak when going over bumps at low speed and also when turning corners.It is quite loud from inside and outside the car ,is always there and continues while turning left or right.
There now appears to be (sorry about the poor description)a kind of springy twang alongside the other noise when I am on full lock.

I haven`t stripped anything yet but am worried that the strut is packing in.
Any ideas anyone?
PS I have performed citaerobics several times with only a marginal improvement.
Regards

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 10 Mar 2006, 10:20

With the suspension right up and the car supported with stands, pull down the gators and inspect the rubber blocks with a flashlight from within the wheel arch...

If you can see obvious cracks in the rubber, or the centre piece looks like it is dissapearing up inside the housing, (originally the gater ring is about 10mm lower than the rest of the rubber) or the ring the gater clips onto is out of round, the strut rubbers could be on the way out...

If it looks like the rubber is ready to fail, replace the strut top without delay, unless you want a strut through the bonnet

I hate to think what would happen if that were to happen to somebody at open road speeds...

Regards,
Simon

harryb.48 · Post by **harryb.48** » 10 Mar 2006, 10:26

thanks Simon,I will look at that tomorrow.
Assuming that the rubber(s) are kaput,are they difficult to replace ?

Wish I could look at it today but no time,but from memory they looked okay,at least where the gaiter fastens.
Thanks again

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 10 Mar 2006, 11:00

harryb.48 wrote:thanks Simon,I will look at that tomorrow.
Assuming that the rubber(s) are kaput,are they difficult to replace ?

The rubber can't be replaced by itself, the whole strut top has to be replaced, eg the sphere mounting included.

I havn't done one myself but the basic approach is:

Depressurize the system and support the body with stands, and then let the front wheels hang down, and remove the wheel on that side.

Remove the sphere, and the hydraulic pipe going to it including the pipe brackets.

Undo the big nut in the middle of the strut top until the nut is just below the shaft (there should be locktite on the thread so it will be very tight) then you're supposed to use a bronze drift to hit the shaft to break the taper free.

The shaft should drop down inside the strut cylinder, make sure the hub is supported so it doesn't lean outwards and pull the inner driveshaft joint apart, or pull the spline out of the gearbox - both problems you want to avoid!

It's then just a matter of removing the four bolts holding the strut top into the body, and dropping it down through the wheel arch and removing it..

When you're reassembling it its just the reverse except when you go to do up the nut on the shaft you'll first have to use an allen key and a ring spanner to get it as tight as you reasonably can to stop the shaft spinning before it bites in the taper then you can do final tightening with a socket and torque wrench... don't forget to put locktite on the thread.

There are at least 3 different versions of the strut tops which are not compatible with each other - very early manual steering non-hydractive models have one rubber notch on the same side as the sphere mounting hole, (forwards) while non-hydractive power steering models have two notches on the sphere side.

If you put a manual steering version on a power steering model you'll get only 1 degree of caster instead of 3 degrees so the steering won't centre or track as well as it should.

It's not clear in the books that I have whether these two configurations are the same units just with the rubber block rotated when you assemble it, or whether they're different items.. (my guess is the latter)

There is a third type for Hydractive models which has the large hydraulic pipe fittings, and also has a different sized nut on the top, and a different taper, so definately not interchangable. I don't think there is a manual steering version of the Hydractive models, so there may only be one version of the strut top for Hydractive models.... (anyone know ?)

I'll be doing the opposite job on mine soon - replacing the strut cylinders, but leaving the strut tops in place, as they were already replaced just before I got the car....(and had all the failure signs I mentioned in my first reply...

)

Regards,
Simon

harryb.48 · Post by **harryb.48** » 10 Mar 2006, 11:17

Thanks again Simon.

Pheeww - seems like quite a job ,can`t I just spray it with something??
or would it be costly to have it done - I do know a very good mechanic ,he once replaced a clutch, discs and gaiters on my son`s 205 in 2 hours flat ( we were just teeing off on the 10th when he rang to say it was done).But thats another story.

Mine is a Xantia estate.`96 model with power steering so it`ll be the 2 notch part.
Thanks again
Any tips welcome
Regards

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 10 Mar 2006, 12:27

harryb.48 wrote: - seems like quite a job ,can`t I just spray it with something??

Have a spray bottle in my shop : "Home mechanic's all purpose spray". Seems to solve any problem by magic. Usually on sale on a regular basis in my local tool store.

harryb.48 · Post by **harryb.48** » 10 Mar 2006, 12:37

I never know when you are being serious Anders - but I would love to get something for a quick fix! - the thought of yet again getting under the Xantia makes me ill.
Regards