Buying a Hdi xantia

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njr
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Buying a Hdi xantia

Post by njr »

Hello everyone

I am hoping to buy a Xantia Hdi soon and would appreciate a bit of advice

1) How can I tell a 110 version from a 90?
2) I would like a lowish mileage (60k) but have heard that at this mileage Xantias often need a bit of work. So what would I be looking to have been done.
3) Is there anything particular to the Hdi to be aware of

Many thanks

Neil
Rostami
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Post by Rostami »

Hi!
I do not believe that there were any Xantia with the HDi 90HP version. All are 110HP. But in any case, the difference is the Intercooler. the 90HP version has no IC.

The HDi is a great engine. It is an evolution of previous 1.9TD PSA engines, on which a Bosch EDC15C2 Common Rail injection system is used. The most well known problems with the engine are:

- High pressure pump is VERY sensitive to the quality of Diesel used. Water is the biggest problem and will for sure pack the pump up. As you can guess, the repair is expensive.

- Head gasket is prone to leakages.

- Camm and crankshaft usually leak engine oil. It is easy to detect

- Engine mounts (silent blocs) are not very reliable.

- The CR high pressure sensor and crank angle sensor are also known to fail quite a lot, resulting in a no-go engine.

Other problems are the low pressure diesel pump placed in the fuel tamk. listen the pump after turning the key...it should make a soft and constant noise. If it is rough, be careful!

Other than that, I can tell you that the engine is really VERY economical. I manage a 5.5 liter per 100km average. The engine does well in excess of 300 000 km, some 200 000 miles, IF well taken care of.

You should also notice that the coolant temperature is usually in the 80ºC range. Indeed the engine runs cool. Oil temperature can pass 100ºC with hard driving. The radiator fan control, aka BITRON sometimes fails.

Clutch repair is more expensive than usual, both on labour and on the kit.

Apart from engine, look around for the usual Xantia suspension stuff.

Hope this helps,
Rostami.
Xantia Activa 2.0 HDi (1999)
Renault Clio 1.9D (1994)
BX 16TRS (1984) - RIP
Fiat Uno 45s (1987) - RIP
RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

You certainly can get a 90 BHP Xantia HDi - in fact most in the UK are this smaller engine (god knows why - it uses more fuel and is slower!). Anyway to recognise a 110, look under the bonnet, and check for a second hose running over the top of the engine next to the hose coming from the air cleaner (this is the air coming back from the intercooler and is only present on 110s).
Richard W
ACTIVE8
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110 or 90 H.D.I.

Post by ACTIVE8 »

RichardW wrote:You certainly can get a 90 BHP Xantia HDi - in fact most in the UK are this smaller engine (god knows why - it uses more fuel and is slower!). Anyway to recognise a 110, look under the bonnet, and check for a second hose running over the top of the engine next to the hose coming from the air cleaner (this is the air coming back from the intercooler and is only present on 110s).
I suppose we are lucky that Citroen did at least import some 110 BHP HDI normal Xantia's. :)

The U.K. didn't get another choice with regard to the Xantia Activa powerplant, while in Europe they had various powerplants, I.E. 3.0 V6, H.D.I. etc. At least Rostami had the option to get the H.D.I. Activa.

If I were looking for another normal Xantia, I would certainly only look for the 110HDI. I wouldn't want to bother with the 90 BHP HDI it's like settling for second best.
njr
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Post by njr »

Thanks guys

Some good stuff there, nice one about the extra hose for the intercooler on the 110 model. Does a 110 have a different engine number/ model id etc as well??

With regards to the 60k ish miles part of my original post, would you expect a car with full service history to have had new suspension spheres, timing belt etc by now. What about the expensive clutch ? What sort of mileage approx should that do ?



Neil
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Post by dnsey »

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about the spheres - if they need doing, it's a good price negotiating point, and they're cheap and easy to replace.
Timing belt's another matter though - the recommended replacement intervals vary, but 60k is about due for replacement to be safe. I'd budget for a new one unless there's hard evidence that it's been done.
Clutch, as always, depends on how it's been driven!
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