Immovable accumulator sphere

tanto · Post by **tanto** » 26 Jan 2006, 15:28

hi guys
im having a big problem with my accumulator sphere it just wont budge at all i have tried to undo it using various tools but it is still stuck solid and i need to get it changed anyone got any idea how to get the bl**dy thing loose

thanks

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 26 Jan 2006, 16:41

Ive read on here from time to time that the odd person 'cracks' them a bit with a hammer and chiscle (sp?) type tool...not sure if this is recommended fully but like you said...you need it off!

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 26 Jan 2006, 16:55

The accumulator sphere is a bit inaccessable so you can't get a hold of it with anything big without risking slipping and holing the radiator.

I've used a hammer and chisel, big chisel and very big hammer!

Homer · Post by **Homer** » 26 Jan 2006, 17:07

I have had to remove the accumulator and pressure regulator to get a good grip on both and get them apart.

Probably safer than risking puncturing the radiator.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 26 Jan 2006, 18:10

I use a tool made from the hex bar that was the remains of a chain type oil filter wrench with a steel band (1.5mm) welded onto opposite faces of the hexagon so that it fits tightly round a sphere and 'wraps' when the bar is turned anti-clockwise. I can fit a 1/2 in socket T bar un the end of the hex bar to turn it and it's never failed yet and in fact takes longer to fit than to loosen a sphere (even BX back ones)

Post by **Peter.N.** » 26 Jan 2006, 18:23

If its really tight, the only practical solution is to take the regulator off in clamp it in a big vice. You may still have to resort to the hammer and chisel method, but as you can now get to it, one good blow with the chisel in the weld around the centre should loosen it.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:19

Sounds a lot like the problem we had with the accumulator sphere on Dad's car - incredibly tight and seemingly just wouldn't budge.

What I'd suggest is to first spray a bit of rust penetrant such as LPS1 into the crack between the sphere and the regulator body to start disolving any rust bond on the faces, and leave it for a few minutes. (yes it really does make a difference)

Then find yourself a square 1 pound block/lump hammer, and an assistant. While one person applies steady and firm torque to the sphere with the sphere removal tool, the other person hits the sphere on the side with the hammer to jolt it.

Try to hit it on the sphere near the regulator and angling slightly away from the regulator so as to jolt it in a direction that will move the two apart. Make sure you DONT hit it near the filler cap on the end of the sphere.

Because of the location of the sphere it can be helpful to hit it via a long solid steel rod - we used a 1" socket drive bar as an intermediary.

Good luck !

When you get it off remember to clean and relube the seal (or replace it) and clean the area near the junction as some rust penetrants may damage the seals if not cleaned up before refitting.

Also, don't forget to bleed the pressure with the bleed screw or the sphere won't budge...(and would be very dangerous if it did)

To make sure its not too tight next time you need to replace the sphere, make sure you lube the seal in LHM before fitting it to the recess, apply a small wipe of light grease to the face of the joint on the regulator, also grease the thread on the sphere, and make sure the sphere is only done up by hand and not with a removal tool, and next time you will have no problems.

Regards,
Simon

Stewart(oily) · Post by **Stewart(oily)** » 26 Jan 2006, 19:53

I put the car on ramps and make a notch in the ridge running around the "equator" of the sphere using a sharp chisel then give it a few thumps using aforementioned hammer and chisel, I have a french sphere tool/chain wrench but theres insufficient clearance between the sphere and the sump/block for it, from underneath its safer to use the hammer and chisel without hitting anything else and the method is surprisingly effective.
Stewart

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 26 Jan 2006, 20:23

When I did mine I think it had been fitted by a gorilla.......I used this-

nine quid from the local (very good) spares shop, wrapped it round the sphere.It doesn't normally fail but the accumulator on mine was ferociously tight.

As it still wouldn't shift , and as I'm not a particular fan of hitting things with hammer and chisel (its a bit of a confined space-one slip and thats the rad gone....) I decided to let the car do the work.

I set the car to normal height,wedged the handle against the floor,sticking out frontwards, and depressurised- the car sank, applied the neccesary brute force, and gently undid it for me!!!!

This only works if the sphere is across the car, however.

How much easier things would be if Citroen had cast the sphere with two flats on the collar.......

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 26 Jan 2006, 21:14

Simon -

How can this acc sphere be stuck - has it corroded on the mating faces ? (yeah - I know

- I'm just trying to tease you

)

tanto -

Your only chance is to use a tool like this one :
http://www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/MISBOA.html
This tool is made by thread re-inforced rubber - like a cut-out piece of a car tire. Do it from underneath with car lifted on safety jacks or ramps.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 26 Jan 2006, 21:49

I have used a Boa and it works - I have removed front spheres with it and also the accumulator (fitted by me - so not tight). Its not my favorite tool as the flat band never seems to sit well on the sphere but to be fair it hasn't broken and one of the front ones I got loose with it broke a chain oil filter wrench.

I made up the device described above when I had to do the rear ones on my BX estate - and it had the advantages of allowing me to use an 18 inch wrecking bear, as well as sitting nicely on the sphere and enabling me to operate it without putting my body underneath the car.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 26 Jan 2006, 21:51

AndersDK wrote:Simon -

How can this acc sphere be stuck - has it corroded on the mating faces ? (yeah - I know - I'm just trying to tease you )

If it makes you feel any better LPS1 is also a penetrating lubricant so it would also creep into the gap and lubricate the seal, so it will deal with both a dry sticking seal and rusty faces

Whatever the reason, it definately seems to help with very stubborn spheres.

Regards,
Simon

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 26 Jan 2006, 23:27

Did mine last week using the hammer and chisel method, worked a treat.

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 27 Jan 2006, 07:55

So im ok to squirt some WD-40 then when i get home into the front spheres area to lube up before attempting to remove??

It will only have about 2 and a half hours to do its magic but at least thats better than nothing.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 27 Jan 2006, 08:33

mezuk04 wrote:So im ok to squirt some WD-40 then when i get home into the front spheres area to lube up before attempting to remove??

It will only have about 2 and a half hours to do its magic but at least thats better than nothing.

I havn't tried WD40 but I'd suggest if you do use it, don't overdo it... use a nozzel so you can apply it only to the junction without getting it on the strut rubbers or anywhere else...

Regards,
Simon