306 HDi 90 Clutch change
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306 HDi 90 Clutch change
I'm going to help my mate change the clutch in his 306 HDi 90 in a few weeks. Anybody done it and got any handy hints? I think it uses a standard push clutch rather than the TD's pull type, and maybe a hydraulic actuator? Also going to get the front wheelbearings changed at the same time, but we'll be taking the hubs to someone with a press to actually change the bearings. Does the HDi still use that inlet housing on the back of the block, so beloved of failure on the XUD, and should we change this as well?
Richard W
I did this last summer on my HDi, its not particularly hard, just removing and refitting the gearbox is a PITA, is better with 2 or 3 people or if you access to ramps, a gearbox stand.
Remove the battery, air filter, flexible pipework behind the MAF, driveshafts, unclip the wiring looms. Support engine under the sump and remove the gearbox mount under the battery tray. The engine speed sensor is a little fiddly, so ok if you have small hands. Then its a case of gear linkages, and gearbox to engine bolts. I kept the starter motor in situ but just moved it aside. The real wrestle is getting the gearbox passed the subframe (Same when refitting) but if you rotate the gearbox so that the diff goes upwards it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
It took 3 of us the whole day to do it, but we were working at a leisurly pace... I wont mention me putting the friction plate in the wrong way around so having to almost redo the job....
The release bearing is easy on these as its not the pull type clutch as you say like the older TD's. It just clips onto the release arm in the bell housing. Be careful though, the clips are *Very* delicate.
Thats it really! Not much different from the Haynes method for the older XUDT lump, so you can follow that.
There is no Hydraulic actuation on these clutches, all cables and linkages!
Regarding the wheel bearings, I also did some but on another 306, a 20 ton press wouldnt budge them, so a handy hint is remove as much as the old bearing as you can (eg Inner race, balls etc) and run a ring of weld around the remaining inner race. The weld contracts, the race just drops out!
Remove the battery, air filter, flexible pipework behind the MAF, driveshafts, unclip the wiring looms. Support engine under the sump and remove the gearbox mount under the battery tray. The engine speed sensor is a little fiddly, so ok if you have small hands. Then its a case of gear linkages, and gearbox to engine bolts. I kept the starter motor in situ but just moved it aside. The real wrestle is getting the gearbox passed the subframe (Same when refitting) but if you rotate the gearbox so that the diff goes upwards it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
It took 3 of us the whole day to do it, but we were working at a leisurly pace... I wont mention me putting the friction plate in the wrong way around so having to almost redo the job....
The release bearing is easy on these as its not the pull type clutch as you say like the older TD's. It just clips onto the release arm in the bell housing. Be careful though, the clips are *Very* delicate.
Thats it really! Not much different from the Haynes method for the older XUDT lump, so you can follow that.
There is no Hydraulic actuation on these clutches, all cables and linkages!
Regarding the wheel bearings, I also did some but on another 306, a 20 ton press wouldnt budge them, so a handy hint is remove as much as the old bearing as you can (eg Inner race, balls etc) and run a ring of weld around the remaining inner race. The weld contracts, the race just drops out!