Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Size

davehughes · Unread post by **davehughes** » 05 Jan 2006, 19:07

I'm changing the cambelt on my 93 Xantia SX 1.9TD on saturday. Just checking I've got all the tools. Can anyone tell me the size of the crankshaft pulley bolt please and will a half inch drive bar be man enough to turn it?

Cheers

Dave

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 05 Jan 2006, 19:47

My spare 1.6 (XU5) BX engine in workshop has a 22mm bolt. You need an extender rod for the box, a good quality Tommy bar and some 1m water piping to extend the Tommy bar lever.

Believe its the same bolt throughout the XU engine range as I've done both XUD9 & XUD7TE with same tool.

NOTE : Let engine reach working temp before doing the job

(if at all possible). Then crack the bolt ASAP when engine is stopped. There are great riscs the bolt may snap doing it on a wintercold engine. Especially if you try the "starter cranking and tommy bar hitting ground" method (NOT reommanded !).
To loosen : Engine stopped. Engage 5.th. Clamp the brake pedal using a piece of wood between pedal and front seat. It wont use much of the acc sphere spare pressure as it is a static pressure apllied. Forget about the handbrake. Its utterly useless against the force needed.
Block wheels with wooden blocks.
Now try.

Remember there will always be Xantia owner members online here to give you *live* online help 8)

davehughes · Unread post by **davehughes** » 05 Jan 2006, 20:08

Thanks for your help. I meant to also ask; is it a normal or reverse thread

Cheers

Dave

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 05 Jan 2006, 20:59

Normal thread.
Meaning you will reverse the engine (and car) when undoing the bolt.

KevMayer · Unread post by **KevMayer** » 05 Jan 2006, 22:38

I took my crankshaft pulley bolt off yesterday. It is very tight. But I think thats mostly due to thread locking compound.

I used two extension bars (12" + 5") and a long tommy bar handle. I built up a pile of wood on the garage floor just outboard of the right hand wing up to the height of the bolt to rest the end of the extension on to give me a pivot point. I then fitted a long tommy bar onto the extension. I pushed and pulled but it wouldn't budge so I got my garden shovel and passed the handle of the shovel over the end of the tommy bar and pushed down on the blade end of the shovel. The tommy bar seemed to be bending but I kept pushing and used a lump hammer to bang on the pivot point on top of the pile of wood. One hand pushing the shovel, the other hitting the pivot point with the hammer to try to jolt the bolt free.

It didn't go straight away, but then there was a crack and the shovel slowly decended to the garage floor. I repositioned and pushed down on the shovel again. The bolt slowly turned out and I finished it off with a ratchet.

If you can get someone else to help that will be an advantage. Even if its just your wife to bang on the pivot point with the hammer.

If you use a shovel, mind the paintwork on the driver's door. DON'T ASK !

After this, I'm thinking of joining the circus...lol

cheers,

Kev

Mandrake · Unread post by **Mandrake** » 05 Jan 2006, 23:15

AndersDK wrote:My spare 1.6 (XU5) BX engine in workshop has a 22mm bolt. You need an extender rod for the box, a good quality Tommy bar and some 1m water piping to extend the Tommy bar lever.

Believe its the same bolt throughout the XU engine range as I've done both XUD9 & XUD7TE with same tool.

NOTE : Let engine reach working temp before doing the job (if at all possible). Then crack the bolt ASAP when engine is stopped. There are great riscs the bolt may snap doing it on a wintercold engine. Especially if you try the "starter cranking and tommy bar hitting ground" method (NOT reommanded !).
To loosen : Engine stopped. Engage 5.th. Clamp the brake pedal using a piece of wood between pedal and front seat. It wont use much of the acc sphere spare pressure as it is a static pressure apllied. Forget about the handbrake. Its utterly useless against the force needed.

Anders,

What do you suggest when doing a cambelt on an automatic ? Both my Dad's and my car need cambelts doing, but being automatic it's impossible to use the in-gear and brakes trick to hold the crankshaft stationary.

Regards,
Simon

KevMayer · Unread post by **KevMayer** » 05 Jan 2006, 23:37

I didn't use gears or handbrake or footbrake.

I purchased a flywheel locking tool. Cost me 9 quid. To fit it I took off my starter motor then used the top starter motor bolt to hold the locking tool in place. The flywheel was held solid.

So, for an auto you need a locking tool.

Mine is by Franklin -

http://franklin-tools.co.uk/acatalog/On ... VW_40.html

Use the above link and scroll down to tool number TA445. Thats what i used.

Cheers,

Kev

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 06 Jan 2006, 00:46

There is an easier way than that. Take off the bottom flywheel cover and jam a screwdriver into the starter gear ring teeth against the the housing. The nut is very tight, you will need something like a 4' tube over a flexy bar.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 06 Jan 2006, 21:33

Hi Simon -

Actually last time I did it - I went straight by PeterN's method described above - on a manual

But I also managed to chip the edge of one tooth on the flywheel using this method

That's why I remembered the "correct" & safe method I tried years ago.

Guess the cause was that I worked alone and had to clamp my screwdriver on the flywheel to have both hands free for working on the bolt.
But having an assistant to help keep the flywheel clamped while cracking the bolt - PeterN's method is the fastest and easiest way to go on an auto.

(BTW : The chipped flywheel is still working perfect everyday

)