xantia air con problem?

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 05 Jan 2006, 17:44

Hi folks and a HNY!

When my air con was regassed last year, the technician wrote on the invoice 'water valve not fully closing'. He said he got the temp down to about 10c, i have tested this by putting a thermometer (accurate) on the front center vents and the temp went down to about 8-9c, however in the summer it did not feel 'ice' cold'. Everything else air con wise seems to be ok.

So my questions are what is this water valve? Can it be repaired or it a replace only job and how much will it cost? i.e. is it worth doing.

Ive had a search through the archives and cant really see anything for the xantia, obviously its a notoriously reliable part

Many thanks

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 05 Jan 2006, 18:21

_kid_ wrote:Ive had a search through the archives and cant really see anything for the xantia, obviously its a notoriously reliable part

If a part is not fitted - it cant break down 8)
There is no water valve involved in the Xantia cabin heater sytem. The cabin air is controlled by flaps directing the incoming air through the heater matrix - or not.

Your mechanic may still be quite right though as the flap closing off the matrix air may not want to shut fully.

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 05 Jan 2006, 19:17

AndersDK wrote:
_kid_ wrote:Ive had a search through the archives and cant really see anything for the xantia, obviously its a notoriously reliable part
If a part is not fitted - it cant break down 8)
There is no water valve involved in the Xantia cabin heater sytem. The cabin air is controlled by flaps directing the incoming air through the heater matrix - or not.

Your mechanic may still be quite right though as the flap closing off the matrix air may not want to shut fully.

thanks very much Anders,

is there anything that can be done, what sort of cost will i be looking at here? or maybe DIY possibility or not?

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 05 Jan 2006, 19:23

Sorry - Forgot to mention that Xantia heater flaps and matrix is a very popular discussion topic on the forum. If you do a new search knowing this I'm sure you will get lots of info.

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 05 Jan 2006, 20:31

Typed 'heater flaps' into the search engine and came up with a page of interesting problems.

From what i read when you move the temperature control slide you should hear a buzzing sound, which is what i get, so looks like they are working ok, but not fully closing from the matrix, therefore the air coming into the cabin is not ice cold.

Not much info on here on how to repair the flaps, but initially looks like the whole dash has to come out, ill have a look in Haynes for any more ideas, but looks like i will have to live with this small summer problem.

all other ideas are welcome

KevMayer · Post by **KevMayer** » 05 Jan 2006, 23:29

Could your temp control unit be faulty/worn.

I know my temp selector seems to go out of adjustment from time to time. I seem to get it working if I slide it from max to min several times. Its as though there is a rehostat inside which gets slightly oxidised. Sliding it vigorously back and forward seems to clean it up and then I get more precise control.

One change I've noticed lately is that if its set on auto and I slide the temp selector to min or max I don't get full fan speed. When I first had the Xantia selecting min temp would bring the fan on at full speed and blast cold air. Selecting max would bring the fan on full speed blowing hot air. Now I don't get full fan speed unless I select it to full speed manually.

Maybe the temp you select is not being realised by the heating system so when you select min/cold the system thinks you selected 'slightly cold' and hence the flaps stay slightly open letting some warm air through.

Cheers,

Kev

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 06 Jan 2006, 00:48

KevMayer wrote:Could your temp control unit be faulty/worn.

I know my temp selector seems to go out of adjustment from time to time. I seem to get it working if I slide it from max to min several times. Its as though there is a rehostat inside which gets slightly oxidised. Sliding it vigorously back and forward seems to clean it up and then I get more precise control.

One change I've noticed lately is that if its set on auto and I slide the temp selector to min or max I don't get full fan speed. When I first had the Xantia selecting min temp would bring the fan on at full speed and blast cold air. Selecting max would bring the fan on full speed blowing hot air. Now I don't get full fan speed unless I select it to full speed manually.

Maybe the temp you select is not being realised by the heating system so when you select min/cold the system thinks you selected 'slightly cold' and hence the flaps stay slightly open letting some warm air through.

Cheers,

Kev

Thanks for that, interesting stuff. The fan does go to max (and loud) speed when the temperature control slider is set to the min or max settings so looks like this is ok. I have read on the honestjohn website a few small fords (ka and fiesta types) that moving the temp control has the effect you are describing. I will give this a try. Is it best when the engine has started or shut, and how often is this recommended.

Cheers

KevMayer · Post by **KevMayer** » 06 Jan 2006, 00:51

Probably best done when the engine is warm so you'll feel the effect if anything changes.

Cheers,

Kev

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 06 Jan 2006, 01:11

KevMayer wrote:One change I've noticed lately is that if its set on auto and I slide the temp selector to min or max I don't get full fan speed. When I first had the Xantia selecting min temp would bring the fan on at full speed and blast cold air. Selecting max would bring the fan on full speed blowing hot air. Now I don't get full fan speed unless I select it to full speed manually.

Mine has always been like that, and I'm pretty sure the one in Dad's car does the same, I thought that was normal ?

Regards,
Simon

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 06 Jan 2006, 08:26

It is possible that he may mean the "TX Valve" which stands for thermostatic expansion valve which is associated with the actual control pf the refrigerant in the system, the idea being that it lets gas through until the frost line is the full length of the evaporator at which point it cuts the supply of refrigerant and it is possible to have these not close off and to "flood" the system which will reduce the ability of the air con to col as cold as it shouldl as it will be unable to pump the back pressure down far enough.
The cause is usually due to the system being overcharged with gas, so I'd suggest if this character thinks a TX valve has anything to do with water that you try a different repairer, because my bet is he overcharged it with gas and hasn't a clue what's gone wrong or he is well aware and is going to take you to the cleaners fixing it.

Alan S

davehughes · Post by **davehughes** » 06 Jan 2006, 19:54

Going back to the oxidised rheostat; if you can get access to it, ie remove centre panel over heater controls (easy)you want to try spraying 'Switchlube' into the switch/rheostat I've used it loads of times and it's the bollocks. When it's cleaned out the switch it evaporates. I've used it on things like indicator stalk switches and that sort of think and it can save a fortune

fridgedoc · Post by **fridgedoc** » 09 Mar 2006, 03:53

Hi Kid

Did you get your a/c sorted?

Where in the uk are you?

I'm in Croydon, could have a look at your a/c if you are near.

Let me know

Bonne Chance

_kid_ · Post by **_kid_** » 10 Mar 2006, 03:07

Hi

No, im waiting till summer and see how it is then

Unfortunately im in Leicester!

fridgedoc · Post by **fridgedoc** » 10 Mar 2006, 07:55

Hi Kid

OK mate sounds like it is slightly short of refrigerant

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 10 Mar 2006, 10:02

Looks like I've learnt nothing in 50 years.

Alan S

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xantia air con problem?

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