Flat Battery / Idling / Stalling Problems

TazzyK · Unread post by **TazzyK** » 24 Nov 2005, 11:30

My 1997 (P) Laguna 1.8 has been almost perfect till now. Its done almost 140,000 miles now and has developed the following since the battery went flat...

I jump-started the car, and it was ok but the injectoer light and SERV light flashed continuously unless the car was revving high. The light went after after the ECU was reset (by disconnecting the battery overnight).

Although it still starts first time, it doesn't have the normal sharp idle speed associated with older cars (choke). I know the ECU controls this but the high idle is not present until I blip the throttle and then it idles ok.

However, once it has warmed up, the car idles at about 500 - 600rpm and when trying to move off, the car stalls. I have also noticed that when I rev it from idle, the revs dip slighly lower and there is a pinking noise before the revs pick up.

The clutch biting point is nearest the top right now so I'm thinking the clutch is on it's way out (but it does not slip at all, not in the slightest).

Most of the above started after the battery ran flat (no fluid in the battery). The battery seems to be ok but its still the same battery, so could this be playing havoc with the idle? Anyway to test this before I replace it?

Also, the stalling of the car, I think it's probably related to the low idle and although it will need a clutch soon, I think if I could sort out the idle it may give the clutch a better chance?

Any insights would be greatly appreciated..

PS I've done a search and came across something similar that I posted last year but don't know how it was fixed!

Stuart McB · Unread post by **Stuart McB** » 25 Nov 2005, 18:14

Check coil pack or packs if seperate. When they start to go down they give this kind of jerky , fluooded carb drive. They will fail and then the car wont start.

Other thing if the battery is kaput you'll need to have the ECU re-learn the car's drive. This is a simple thing to sort. Start car and drive for about 10 mins at approx 3500 revs in all gears.

Hope this helps.

TazzyK · Unread post by **TazzyK** » 25 Nov 2005, 21:02

Cheers mate, I appreciate that. I think its got two coil packs with two leads coming out from each (it's the later 1783 8v engine). What do I need to check for on the coil packs? I did jet wash the front of the engine, but it's not missing or anything like that.

Stuart McB · Unread post by **Stuart McB** » 27 Nov 2005, 13:36

Just check the general condition. Unfotunatley when they go wrong there's no tell tale signs. You can test for the usual stuff like power and electrical omhs etc, but I'm not that up to speed with my test meter.

TazzyK · Unread post by **TazzyK** » 27 Nov 2005, 17:45

Cheers again mate...i know what you mean about the testing meter...I bought a multimeter without a clue how to use it!

Anyways, thanx to your advise, I got the car idling where it should. Just revved it at about 3500rpm for 10 mins and that seems to have done the trick. The battery is showing 12.63V which according to Haynes is 'normal' (12.7V is 'good', 12.6V is 'normal', and 12.5V is 'poor').

Its running ok so I'm assuming coils will be ok.

The breather pipe was really badly gunked up...I've not checked this in the last four years and it was real bad....I've cleaned it out but don't know what effect this will really have as I decided to flush the coolant and have come a bit unstuck as I've lost the seals between the heater matrix inlet and the pipes...hope I can buy these separately...

Adjusted the clutch cable abit and that also seems a bit better but not perfect.

Cheers again

Stuart McB · Unread post by **Stuart McB** » 02 Dec 2005, 15:44

Good to hear the old girls running a lot better.