BX DTR17 Gloplugs.

pmhpmh · Post by **pmhpmh** » 17 Nov 2005, 15:11

Having investigated the Gloplugs, because of progressively more difficult starting at lower temperatures, it appears that nos 3 & 4 are both open circuit.

Advice on how an earth you can get at them to change them please.

Do they unscrew relatively easily or do they seize?

I would guess that these 2 are the failures because in the past somebody could not be bothered to change them???? Is it worth changing just no3 because that looks almost possible cf no 4! ie I would then have 3 working.

128k on clock, mechanical still wonderful!

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 17 Nov 2005, 15:17

On the Xantia the failed ones were 1 and 4.....and yes it would appear that they were much older than 2 and 3.....if your going to be replacing glow plugs then you may as replace them all at once, the job is then done and you wont need to bother again. 1 and 4 in the Xantia were incredibly bad for access, what turned from a 4-5 hour job ended up being about a day and a half....well i broke something off the engine block trying to get a plug out with very little access

but its all done!

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 17 Nov 2005, 16:23

What ever you use, keep O/E spanners away from them. You'll round-off the flats. When I had a BX, to get to the plug behind the pump, I modified a ring spanner so that I could use an extension on the end of it.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 17 Nov 2005, 16:53

I had no problem with access on my BX TD using a deep socket. Mine was 1/4 inch drive (which I happened to have). Screw the plugs fully home by hand before tightening (the recommended torque isn't very tight) so as to avoid crossing the thread.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 17 Nov 2005, 17:48

Like Jeremy I had no troubles replacing plugs on my turd. Use Beru plugs for replacement as these are Citroen original fittied.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 17 Nov 2005, 18:07

and always put a swipe of grease on the threads so that next time, they come out more easily. Using copper grease also reduces the electrolytic corrosion between the steel glowplug and the aluminium head.

pmhpmh · Post by **pmhpmh** » 23 Nov 2005, 21:32

For the record, for the next person who searches the topic.......

Intercooler off, intercooler centre mounting front bracket off, water hose from back of injection pump to front of block off, gives adequate access just. Still needed time and patience to get out No 4 as it was very tight in the head. Using a very fine ratchet 12mm flexible head spanner, http://tinyurl.com/bplby , with No 3 gloplug out to give even better access. I would not like to do No4 with just cranked ring spanner, it would take a long long time! How any body gets a deep socket onto it I will never know!

3plugs in 5 minutes, 4th about 45mins!

Smart tip, put rags into both the inlet manifold opening and turbo hose to prevent the possibility of a very expensive sods law occurence!

The acid test will be the next freezing morning.

Post by **RichardW** » 24 Nov 2005, 09:25

"Smart tip, put rags into both the inlet manifold opening and turbo hose to prevent the possibility of a very expensive sods law occurence! "

Even smarter tip: after inserting said rag into the inlet manifold DO NOT crank the engine

fortunately, it was only a piece of kitchen paper, and after some agressive cranking I got it to start, spewing a large cloud of grey smoke across the neighbourhood, and lots of little bits of charred paper.....

I don't remember having particular trouble with getting the 4th plug out with a cranked ring, and I didn't disconnect the water hose, but mine was quite an early one (88) and it seems the layout varied over the years, mkaing things more difficult. As to the Xantia - I can hardly even SEE no 4 plug....