Pug 306 Airbag light (SeatBelt tensioner fault)

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Linchpin
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Pug 306 Airbag light (SeatBelt tensioner fault)

Post by Linchpin »

Hey guys, im finally going to stop that bloody airbag light flashing. I know its the Connection under the front passenger seat, so my intention is to do away with the orange plug and make a direct connection. Any advice before i do this? How long to leave the battery off for? Maybe i shouldnt do this at all... i dont want to trigger the airbag, or wreck the SRS system.

Cheers

Kev :)
PowerLee
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Post by PowerLee »

Hi

Battery off for at least 10 minutes ( radio code & shut alarm down if fitted ) Match the colour coded wires up & make sure they are well insulated from each other & the frame of the seat.

Do both seats at the same time.

What ever you do under NO circumstances probe any of the wires with a multimeter! If you do you WILL fire the srs system!

Its a really easy job to do if you follow the above advice.
Linchpin
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Post by Linchpin »

Excellent - thanks for the good advice.

I wont bother poking my multimeter about, im going to get some of those "chockie-block"things (the plastic connectors with 2 screws in), and well insulate the lot. Do you think this will be OK?
Linchpin
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Post by Linchpin »

update - theese are the "chockie block" things i was on about.

Image

Should be ok well insulated?
PowerLee
Posts: 1260
Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2
x 1

Post by PowerLee »

Hi

Its much better if you solder the wires to each other, Its a much more permant & better joint, You could try the connector block but its not what I would use myself.
Linchpin
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Post by Linchpin »

I was thinking of using the connectors to avoid any heat / etc near the pre-tensioners... maybe solder is the way to go!

Cheers for the advice Powerlee :)
Linchpin
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Post by Linchpin »

Ah... one more question dude.

Do you recommend taking the seats out? If so... is this easy to do?
PowerLee
Posts: 1260
Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
Location: United Kingdom
My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2
x 1

Post by PowerLee »

Hi

Theres no need to take the seat out, Once the wiring is unclipped theres more then enough to get at it from the rear footwell, Just slide the front seat all the way forward to help, It will be a bit cramped but less trouble in the long run.

Taking the front seat out is a pain, Undoing those torx 30 bolts & then having to undo the seatbelt too.

The heat from a soldering iron on the wires wont trigger the pre tensioners, If your worried just solder one wire, wait a few minutes & then repeat on the other wire, Protect the carpet from solder drips & the iron tip, A bit of cardboard is good to stop drips.

The only ways to fire the pre tensioners is crash the car to deploy the srs system, Stick a small voltage to the electrical conection ( thats why a multimeter is a NO NO ) or get it very very hot.
Linchpin
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Post by Linchpin »

Excellent advice!

Cheers PowerLee, ill try this soon and let you know if i still have a face or not :)

Thanks again

Kev
batwad
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Post by batwad »

I'm going to tell you the exact opposite of PowerLee :twisted: I used connector blocks on mine as I didn't want the permanence of soldering (i.e.: what if the seats have to be taken out in future? Answer: snip snip snip).

Also, after ten minutes of grovelling and cursing I decided to take the seats out. It's an easy task, a bolt on each corner and takes five minutes. After doing the drivers side (and finding out its best to remove the reat bolts firs) the passenger side was done in 15 minutes including removing and refitting the seat. No cursing, scrabbling or grazed hands either 8) Even got the opportunity to fix my creaky seat!
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