If it is the ram how hard a job is this to complete? I don't even have a haynes yet, so would like some insight into what's involved.
Many thanks
ZX TD steering
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ohms
- Posts: 59
- Joined: 27 Oct 2005, 22:42
ZX TD steering
Hi all, I've just bought a ZX TD and it has a problem. The steering jams when winding on right lock and needs excessive force to get past this point. I've a suspicion the PAS ram is at fault and due to the fact that this is quite a pricey item I'd like the opinions of those in the know.
If it is the ram how hard a job is this to complete? I don't even have a haynes yet, so would like some insight into what's involved.
Many thanks
If it is the ram how hard a job is this to complete? I don't even have a haynes yet, so would like some insight into what's involved.
Many thanks
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James.UK
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: 14 Dec 2003, 23:12
- x 2
Another thread is dealing with just this problem I think.
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=16611
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=16611
James. (Nr M67 East of Manchester).
Dark Blue ZX 1.9D Auto 1994 'L' 5 dr (modified) Aura. 98K miles used daily. Ave mpg 40
Wedgewood Blue 75 CTD auto Connoissaur. 2002. 144k. used daily. ave mpg 40 ish.
Dark Blue ZX 1.9D Auto 1994 'L' 5 dr (modified) Aura. 98K miles used daily. Ave mpg 40
Wedgewood Blue 75 CTD auto Connoissaur. 2002. 144k. used daily. ave mpg 40 ish.
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VLL
- Posts: 140
- Joined: 23 Feb 2004, 00:55
The symptoms you describe could also be caused by the strut top mounts breaking up, over time they dry out and collapse and when you turn the wheel the strut sticks and needs a fair bit of force to turn any further.
For the cost of new top mounts i would be doing those before i went to the expense of replacing the PAS.
For the cost of new top mounts i would be doing those before i went to the expense of replacing the PAS.
Peugeot 206 Sport HDi 3-Door
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AlWilliams
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 06 Jun 2004, 20:02
I am suffering the same problem 
If it's the ram, then the steering will lock and it's very hard / impossible to turn the wheel.
The ram is ok to change, as long as you can get under the car. The real problem are the two hyraulic lines feeding it. On my car they had ceased fast and nothing was moving them.
This resulted in having to remove the whole steering rack to get better access and alternative tools in to play.
Just waiting for another dry day to fit everything back in, mmm, 2006 maybe.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't bother getting a Haynes (BOL) especially, it doesn't cover this job
If it's the ram, then the steering will lock and it's very hard / impossible to turn the wheel.
The ram is ok to change, as long as you can get under the car. The real problem are the two hyraulic lines feeding it. On my car they had ceased fast and nothing was moving them.
This resulted in having to remove the whole steering rack to get better access and alternative tools in to play.
Just waiting for another dry day to fit everything back in, mmm, 2006 maybe.
Good luck.
P.S. Don't bother getting a Haynes (BOL) especially, it doesn't cover this job
ZX TD Volcane 133k
Several bikes (for when the car don't go)
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. So when you do judge him, you will be a mile away and have his shoes.
Several bikes (for when the car don't go)
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. So when you do judge him, you will be a mile away and have his shoes.
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NiSk
- Posts: 1422
- Joined: 24 Jan 2002, 20:11
- x 1
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ohms
- Posts: 59
- Joined: 27 Oct 2005, 22:42
Had a look under the car today and doesn't look like to hard of a job. I sprayed plenty of plus gas on the unions that connect the hydraulic lines to the ram and have purchased a new ram. My partner works at citroen and was able to get the ram for cost price, so not as expensive as I first thought.
On inspection it became clear that it could onlt be the ram at fault as there is no binding of any other steering components, so I'll crack on tomorrow.
The car is riddled with problems...i've got knocks from the front and rear suspension when travelling over any sort of bumps and I don't think the car is handling as well as it should.
I only bought the car becuase my trusty 405 decided to waste it's headgasket on wednesday leaving me carless...Still, mustn't grumble, it's recently had the head gasket and cambelt done and is MOT'd until March next year, the bodyworks not very good, but the car goes like the clappers...i'm assuming this is due to the raised compression from the head skim. It's covered 122k and I'm the 3rd owner, a good buy at £115.
Where to start with the suspension, I really would like to stop these knkocking noises and bring it back to rudementary health
On inspection it became clear that it could onlt be the ram at fault as there is no binding of any other steering components, so I'll crack on tomorrow.
The car is riddled with problems...i've got knocks from the front and rear suspension when travelling over any sort of bumps and I don't think the car is handling as well as it should.
I only bought the car becuase my trusty 405 decided to waste it's headgasket on wednesday leaving me carless...Still, mustn't grumble, it's recently had the head gasket and cambelt done and is MOT'd until March next year, the bodyworks not very good, but the car goes like the clappers...i'm assuming this is due to the raised compression from the head skim. It's covered 122k and I'm the 3rd owner, a good buy at £115.
Where to start with the suspension, I really would like to stop these knkocking noises and bring it back to rudementary health
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
Your rattles sound like front anti-roll bar drop links and rear subframe mounts.
The drop links are a favorite and are difficult to diagnose positively - but you may find some slack if you get the tension off the anti-roll bar. They are generally just a nuisance rather than making any difference to the feel of the car.
The rear subframe mounts are vital on this car - as it has passive rear wheel steering and the mounts are an integral part of the system. Bit fiddly to change I gather but instructions may turn up on a search.
jeremy
The drop links are a favorite and are difficult to diagnose positively - but you may find some slack if you get the tension off the anti-roll bar. They are generally just a nuisance rather than making any difference to the feel of the car.
The rear subframe mounts are vital on this car - as it has passive rear wheel steering and the mounts are an integral part of the system. Bit fiddly to change I gather but instructions may turn up on a search.
jeremy
jeremy
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AlWilliams
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 06 Jun 2004, 20:02
Thanks NiSK, I consider myself corrected. 
Time to upgrade my BOL, or is that downgrade, to an earlier version?
Good luck with the unions ohms.
Time to upgrade my BOL, or is that downgrade, to an earlier version?
Good luck with the unions ohms.
ZX TD Volcane 133k
Several bikes (for when the car don't go)
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. So when you do judge him, you will be a mile away and have his shoes.
Several bikes (for when the car don't go)
Before you judge a man, walk a mile in his shoes. So when you do judge him, you will be a mile away and have his shoes.
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RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 12442
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- x 1430
Rear subframe mounts: Jon and Dave's notes:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=1699
My post made last week, with some pics:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=16606
Well worth the effort to be without the percussion section under the rear, and to go round corners like it was meant to 8)
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... php?t=1699
My post made last week, with some pics:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=16606
Well worth the effort to be without the percussion section under the rear, and to go round corners like it was meant to 8)
Richard W