Hi folks,I`m just about to start a clutch change on my cx diesel,so just a few questions....what other essential jobs should I carry out when the engine and box are out? Also any other advice on how to make the job run smoothly,for example can I remove the driveshafts from the gearbox without the special tool?
Thanks in advance Andy
PS CAR IS NON TURBO SO IS QUITE SIMPLE FOR A CITROEN!!
CX SERIES 1 DIESEL CLUTCH CHANGE
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Does this help ....
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... change.htm
I recently did a clutch change on my CX too
seeya,
Shane L.
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... change.htm
I recently did a clutch change on my CX too
seeya,
Shane L.
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Sorry Anders, your right, having said that the CX was easier to work on I was thinking mainly about changing the head gasket which I did about 10 times on mine. I had forgotten about the subframe (apologies to mowcopds) but it must be possible, I changed both of mine! Is it not possible to lever them out with something? I have got an idea that I used a long tyre lever between the shaft end and diff housing.
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While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by citronut</i>
long time since i have done them but i think you do put a lever in between diff and inner triac,the good thing is you dont loose you gear oil as when the shaft comes out there is a sleave stoping the oil escaping
regards malcolm
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
If your talking about removing the LHS driveshaft, please DO NOT EVER try to 'pry' this joint out as described.
Let me rephrase that ... VERY GENTLY with VERY LITTLE force try prying it as suggested. If the driveshaft doesn't pop easily out of the gearbox with gentle force IT ISN'T COMING OUT, DO NOT TRY HARDER.
If you use a 'levering' force you don't compress the clip on the end of the driveshaft, rather your applying great force againt the clip, possibly breaking it, or wedging it forever in place.
If you can make up a slide hammer that clamps to the driveshaft joint this would be the only way to remove it ... Me ???? split the driveshaft leaving the joint behind [:)] Very simple, once the gearbox is out you have lots of room to give the joint a few heavy smacks with a big hammer. This will immediatly 'jolt' the joint out compressing the clip.
seeya,
Shane L.
long time since i have done them but i think you do put a lever in between diff and inner triac,the good thing is you dont loose you gear oil as when the shaft comes out there is a sleave stoping the oil escaping
regards malcolm
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
If your talking about removing the LHS driveshaft, please DO NOT EVER try to 'pry' this joint out as described.
Let me rephrase that ... VERY GENTLY with VERY LITTLE force try prying it as suggested. If the driveshaft doesn't pop easily out of the gearbox with gentle force IT ISN'T COMING OUT, DO NOT TRY HARDER.
If you use a 'levering' force you don't compress the clip on the end of the driveshaft, rather your applying great force againt the clip, possibly breaking it, or wedging it forever in place.
If you can make up a slide hammer that clamps to the driveshaft joint this would be the only way to remove it ... Me ???? split the driveshaft leaving the joint behind [:)] Very simple, once the gearbox is out you have lots of room to give the joint a few heavy smacks with a big hammer. This will immediatly 'jolt' the joint out compressing the clip.
seeya,
Shane L.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fastandfurryous</i>
While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.
seeya,
Shane L.
While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.
seeya,
Shane L.
are you the luck one to have bronze bushes instead of needle rollers,unless when one of those triack bearings drops of you end up with about 30 needle rollers scatered every which way they choose to go
regards malcolm]<i>Originally posted by DoubleChevron</i>
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fastandfurryous</i>
While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.
seeya,
Shane L.
[/quote]
regards malcolm]<i>Originally posted by DoubleChevron</i>
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fastandfurryous</i>
While the engine/box is out, it's dead easy to change the cambelt(s) as well. The nearside driveshaft has to be "shocked" out of it's housing, best to use a slide hammer or similar. Alternatively, you can just undo the boot, leaving the "tulip" in the gearbox and the tri-axe on the shaft. Don't drop the rings off the tri-axe though, or you'll have needle roller bearing EVERYWHERE!
I have to do all this soon on my Series 1 CX TD. It was dead easy in the C25 2.5D van, as there's about a foot of clearance all round the engine/box. Not quite as spacious in a CX!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Woops guess I should have read this before I replied [:)]
BTW: There is no needle roller bearings ... There is no drama at all if the CX joints come apart.
seeya,
Shane L.
[/quote]
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