I've recently acquired a '93 106 XND with 35k on the clock. I am unsure if the car is losing coolant or whether it is simply finding its own level. I have occasionally found a couple of spots of coolant under the car and at the time appeared to be dripping off the front offside end of the engine where the block and sump meet. The level is slightly below the red marker in the expansion tank but does not seem to be dropping significantly further. I wondered whether the dripping could be a sign of water pump failure or whether it is just the excess blown out of the system running down the engine.
The car was recently serviced and the specialist checked the antifreeze strength and said it was fine, but I don't know when it was last changed. Unlike more modern cars it doesn't smell sweet but instead smeels a bit fishy!
I understand this is an aluminium engine; does this mean much in terms of maintainence? Does the coolant need changing more frequently?
Anyone with hints on what I should look out for with this car and engine? I'm eager to keep it in good condition and have read a few things about this not being the longest lasting engine so am eager to take preventative action.
Thanks in adavnce for any advice and tips.
Regards
106 XND problems?
Moderator: RichardW
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Check the hose running from water pump (rear of engine) to front - offside- there is a junction with a small length of vertical tube and a bleed screw. This often leaks. It's about £40 from Citroen: GSF may be cheaper? If it leaks it will drip where you state. Check expansion tank: they can split .. or one of the many rubber hoses can.
We have had one for 13 years from new. regular oil and filter changes, ditto antifreeze (or use OAT longlife), check radiator for leaks, Cambelt and auxiliary belt must be changed every 5 years. (not too difficult but access:-(. Lower front suspension balljoints (nearside) fail .. replace complete arm is easiest. Check rust under spare wheel and seams. Front disks and pads can corrode and stick .. an appalling design . Rear wheel brake cylinders fail after some 7 years (need new axle end caps).
We have had one for 13 years from new. regular oil and filter changes, ditto antifreeze (or use OAT longlife), check radiator for leaks, Cambelt and auxiliary belt must be changed every 5 years. (not too difficult but access:-(. Lower front suspension balljoints (nearside) fail .. replace complete arm is easiest. Check rust under spare wheel and seams. Front disks and pads can corrode and stick .. an appalling design . Rear wheel brake cylinders fail after some 7 years (need new axle end caps).
The coolant will be dripping down from somewhere. Assuming you've got a jack and axle stands, get it up and first look for leaking coolant hoses. Evidence of leaks shows up as white deposits. Could be something as simple as a perished hose or loose jubilee clip.
Look around the cambelt covers (I assume the waterpump is cambelt driven) for signs of leakage. Take off the top cover and look at the belt - if it's contaminated it could well be a leaking pump.
The radiator cap may not be holding pressure, another cheap fix if it is this.
If you're still scratching your head, get the system pressure tested at a garage. Of course, it could be the dreaded head gasket, but don't start worrying about that until you've checked for simple causes.
Look around the cambelt covers (I assume the waterpump is cambelt driven) for signs of leakage. Take off the top cover and look at the belt - if it's contaminated it could well be a leaking pump.
The radiator cap may not be holding pressure, another cheap fix if it is this.
If you're still scratching your head, get the system pressure tested at a garage. Of course, it could be the dreaded head gasket, but don't start worrying about that until you've checked for simple causes.
Thanks very much for the replies.
I've been keeping an eye on things and despite a few high speed (for an XND!) motorway runs the level doesn't seem to have dropped much if at all; this was after topping up a small ammount. I'm hoping it either blew the excess fluid out or there was a little air in the system which has been removed. I whipped off the cambelt cover and all looked well, no white deposits or anything untoward.
Anyone know anything re. the smell of the coolant? Should it smell sweet and does the 'off' smell indicate it is past its best? Everything I read about this engine seems to concern keeping the cooling system in good condition.
As for the lower front balljoints, I suspect they are on the way out; often get a few clonking sounds when travelling over rough roads. Is there anything inherently dangerous about this, or is it just an annoyance?
I am also eager to find out if there are any rust traps; I've noticed a bit of minor rust on the lip of the engine bay side member where it is exposed inside the front wheel-arch right at the front, but nothing much else.
Thanks again for any advice.
Regards
I've been keeping an eye on things and despite a few high speed (for an XND!) motorway runs the level doesn't seem to have dropped much if at all; this was after topping up a small ammount. I'm hoping it either blew the excess fluid out or there was a little air in the system which has been removed. I whipped off the cambelt cover and all looked well, no white deposits or anything untoward.
Anyone know anything re. the smell of the coolant? Should it smell sweet and does the 'off' smell indicate it is past its best? Everything I read about this engine seems to concern keeping the cooling system in good condition.
As for the lower front balljoints, I suspect they are on the way out; often get a few clonking sounds when travelling over rough roads. Is there anything inherently dangerous about this, or is it just an annoyance?
I am also eager to find out if there are any rust traps; I've noticed a bit of minor rust on the lip of the engine bay side member where it is exposed inside the front wheel-arch right at the front, but nothing much else.
Thanks again for any advice.
Regards
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The 106 body,like all modern Peugeots is pretty well sound when it comes to corrosion.I think the outer panels are galvanised. I've just picked up a '93 diesel with 178k miles up and the shell is fine. Try saying that about the equivalent Vauxhall Ford or BL product!! The only suspect point would be the boot floor area from underneath.Peugeot used to be a little light on anti-rust treatment in this area on all their cars around that time.[:0]
Watch the inner front bush on the bottom arm too,on both my 106's they were pretty badly worn,other than that,superb small car, typical Peugeot chassis. Enjoy![:D]
Watch the inner front bush on the bottom arm too,on both my 106's they were pretty badly worn,other than that,superb small car, typical Peugeot chassis. Enjoy![:D]
Rear axles can go after a while - mine went at 110k miles so you should be okay for a while.
The front tyres can wear a little uneven if the front balljoints are gone.
They are pretty rust proof - dont think I have seen any with rusty rear wheel arches - but nearly every Clio of that age does.
Michael
1996 106 1.5d 111,000 miles
1998 806 1.9 SLDT 85,000 miles
The front tyres can wear a little uneven if the front balljoints are gone.
They are pretty rust proof - dont think I have seen any with rusty rear wheel arches - but nearly every Clio of that age does.
Michael
1996 106 1.5d 111,000 miles
1998 806 1.9 SLDT 85,000 miles