Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

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howiedean
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by howiedean » 02 Sep 2005, 01:13

Hi
I'm after some help as I'm thinking about doing a gearbox change on a Xantia 1.9td by myself. Basically if someone has done this job recently I'd like to know a step by step guide and which part of haynes to ignore etc.
It would be a great help and many thanks. [:)]
Regards

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AndersDK
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by AndersDK » 02 Sep 2005, 01:24

If you have the earlier (brown) edition of the BX (!) Haynes - this is by far the best description - if you <i>ignore</i> the dowel insertion to keep gears located in the diff.

howiedean
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by howiedean » 02 Sep 2005, 01:28

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by AndersDK</i>

If you have the earlier (brown) edition of the BX (!) Haynes - this is by far the best description - if you <i>ignore</i> the dowel insertion to keep gears located in the diff.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Anders,
I've only got access to axel stands and trolley jacks. Does this make the job much more difficult as I've heard people talking about engine hoists?

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Kowalski
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by Kowalski » 02 Sep 2005, 02:48

I had the gearbox off my '94 Xantia with my Dad's help, we had no hoist and it was a real struggle. It is difficult to orient the gearbox on the trolley jack so that you can get it into position, so we used a rope from the top wrapped around a plank of wood to take some of the weight. If you had a proper gearbox saddle for your trolley jack it becomes possible single handed, to make things easiest you need to get the car jacked up as far as possible and you'll need a decent trolley jack, one with a good reach on it.
If you're doing it on the garage and a rope over a roof truss improvises an engine hoist.

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AndersDK
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by AndersDK » 02 Sep 2005, 03:39

A while ago one of our BX enthusiasts Bob Smith submitted a very helpful TIP :
Remove one of the upper gearbox mounting bolts, then shop around to find 3 bolts same threading, but at least triple the length (threaded rods ?). Hacksaw the boltheads to achive 3 nicely long threaded rods that goes in instead of 3 gearbox mounting bolts. Leave 1 (topmost) of the original in place until you're ready for final removal/fitting of gearbox.
Now you have very nice off/on sliding control of the gearbox until it slips/engages the clutch [^]
I finally decided to try this last time I replaced a BX clutch. Boy [:p][:p] those shopping hours for the rods was the best investment I ever made.

alan s
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by alan s » 02 Sep 2005, 03:45

You're a mind reader Anders; I remember seeing Bob's write up now you mention it and only a couple of days ago I was at a long experienced Cit enthusiasts place who I was telling about the clutch job I am about to do in the next week or so and he casually reached onto a shelf and produced three highly polished stainless steel studs that he had made on his lathe to do exactly the same job.
He tells me he was even wrestling with one out of the car for a couple of hours and couldn't get it right, so made these up and had it back together in minutes.
We intend employing an engine crane as a means of support for the box we're doing. I also feel it's important to get the car itself up as high as you can when dropping gearboxes or you risk either dropping it on yourself or get in situations you can't manouvre in.
Alan S

jeremy
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by jeremy » 02 Sep 2005, 12:04

Places like B&Q sell threaded bar (and nuts.) Massive quantities of it are used in suspended ceilings.
Jeremy

oilyspanner
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by oilyspanner » 02 Sep 2005, 21:09

I find that a block of wood between the sump and the crossmember can be useful too, especially on ZX.
Stewart

howiedean
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by howiedean » 02 Sep 2005, 23:54

I've got a few things to think about now!!!!
Thanks for all your advice.
Regards

RDD
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by RDD » 03 Sep 2005, 15:17

I did my Xantia 'box by myself a few months back.
Use the threaded rod idea. I didn't have any, and I wish I did. Also, budget for a new clutch while you're there, just in case. You don't want to have to take the 'box off again....

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fastandfurryous
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by fastandfurryous » 03 Sep 2005, 18:19

I've had quite a number of BE type gearboxes off in the past, and have never yet had a problem with removal or refitting. The key is always to ensure that the clutch is centralised properly. The plastic cone tools do work, but you can't beat having an old input shaft for getting it properly aligned.
If you're feeling strong, it's possible just to lift the gearbox back into position by hand.
Also, contrary to the Haynes manual, it's entirely possible to remove/refit the gearbox without removing the long driveshaft. It does mean there's one more thing to be aware of on re-alignment, but I've not had a problem before. If you do it this way it also means you can use one axlestand under the N/S of the car, and one under the sump (if you only have a pair) leaving the jack free to hold the weight of the gearbox.

citronut
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by citronut » 03 Sep 2005, 19:36

i never use centralising tool,i just feel the edge of friction disc to presure plate working surface,get it even on all sides you can get your figers into,never have prob linning up splines,i also bought an engine/box suport beam from ebay brand new £38 squid inc del,very heavy duty u*k**g magic
regards malcolm

Dave Burns
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Gearbox change Knowledge required Please!!!

Post by Dave Burns » 04 Sep 2005, 01:30

You can't leave the r/hand drive shaft in on a xantia because as soon as the box is of its dowells it has to be twisted for the diff to clear the subframe, the threaded rods can't be used either, for the same reason.
Dave