Hi, i am planning to replace the 'blown' head gasket on my Xantia 1.9 T.D. I realise that I will need special tools, I only have basic sockets and extensions!
E.g. What size and type of torque wrench?
What size and type of strong arm?
What size of socket to remove injectors, does it need to be deep type?
Also would the Haynes manual be o.k. for instructions?
I would be grateful for any replies.
Many thanx,
Foxy[?]
Special tools req.d for hd. gak.t replac.t???
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fastandfurryous
- Posts: 1389
- Joined: 07 Jul 2004, 17:57
- x 4
Torque wrench: a meduim sized one. probably a 1/2" drive. You will also need an angle gauge
Strong arm? wossat then?
Why do you want to remove the injectors?
Have you even read the haynes manual yet? This is a fairly long & involved job, and to stand any chance of sucess you need to be sure you can complete the job before you start it.
You'll also need the pin and set of bolts to lock the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump. Plus a T55(I think) torx driver for the head bolts. oh, and a triple-jointed arm to get the manifolds off and back on again.
Have fun!
While the head is off, it is almost essential to have it skimmed, and it would be well worth putting a new cambelt on it.
Strong arm? wossat then?
Why do you want to remove the injectors?
Have you even read the haynes manual yet? This is a fairly long & involved job, and to stand any chance of sucess you need to be sure you can complete the job before you start it.
You'll also need the pin and set of bolts to lock the crankshaft, camshaft and injection pump. Plus a T55(I think) torx driver for the head bolts. oh, and a triple-jointed arm to get the manifolds off and back on again.
Have fun!
While the head is off, it is almost essential to have it skimmed, and it would be well worth putting a new cambelt on it.
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Common abbreviation for a cylinder head gasket = HG [:D]
The HG bolts must be replaced together with the HG. These are Torx 55 drive. You can not work on the cylinder head with less than ½" drive sockets & tools.
To keep down the budget its quite allright to buy & use the cheap type ½" drive torque wrench which basically has a flexible torque bar and a non-moving needle to show applied torque. Bet you can go shopping and find this tool at some 5-8 'ish quid. You dont need NASA approved tools for a street car engine repair. Required torque and handling spec WILL be supplied with new HG & bolts.
You must remove the cambelt and all cam gear (valves etc.) Cant remember the socket size for the injectors. But honestly they can prove to be the worst bit of dismantling - and the motor factor which WILL have to skim the head will undo the injectors, cam & valves for you at very reasonable extra cost.
Guesstimate on this job is some 50-80 'ish quid total.
A HG job is a basic DIY type of job. Fearsome for the 1.st timer - but really a straightforward & logic job. Here the Haynes comes in as a valuable tool - even if not accurate on the actual engine type.
My advice is :
The first thing you do is to lock cam & crank axles at their indexes using lockpins or suitable bolts - and THEN you make a clear reference marking on the diesel distributor/rotor pump's sprocket to housing reference. It MUST very accurate. Of course if any lock pin/bolt fits in the pump this should be used.
Once you are 100% sure you can find these references again on later re-assembly - go ahead and remove lockpins, cambelt, etc.
The HG bolts must be replaced together with the HG. These are Torx 55 drive. You can not work on the cylinder head with less than ½" drive sockets & tools.
To keep down the budget its quite allright to buy & use the cheap type ½" drive torque wrench which basically has a flexible torque bar and a non-moving needle to show applied torque. Bet you can go shopping and find this tool at some 5-8 'ish quid. You dont need NASA approved tools for a street car engine repair. Required torque and handling spec WILL be supplied with new HG & bolts.
You must remove the cambelt and all cam gear (valves etc.) Cant remember the socket size for the injectors. But honestly they can prove to be the worst bit of dismantling - and the motor factor which WILL have to skim the head will undo the injectors, cam & valves for you at very reasonable extra cost.
Guesstimate on this job is some 50-80 'ish quid total.
A HG job is a basic DIY type of job. Fearsome for the 1.st timer - but really a straightforward & logic job. Here the Haynes comes in as a valuable tool - even if not accurate on the actual engine type.
My advice is :
The first thing you do is to lock cam & crank axles at their indexes using lockpins or suitable bolts - and THEN you make a clear reference marking on the diesel distributor/rotor pump's sprocket to housing reference. It MUST very accurate. Of course if any lock pin/bolt fits in the pump this should be used.
Once you are 100% sure you can find these references again on later re-assembly - go ahead and remove lockpins, cambelt, etc.
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citronut
- Posts: 10937
- Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
- x 94
no anders you must not remove any of the locking pins durin head removal ,once head is off you may remove locking pin from cam sprocket only,and replace it before matting head back with the block,also you must not remove locking pins from crank or injection pump untill cam belt has been refitted and tentioned corectly
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
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j_roc
- Posts: 230
- Joined: 01 May 2005, 01:04
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mpr1956
- Posts: 220
- Joined: 13 Nov 2004, 04:36
Hi foxy. I did mine a while ago in the drive with reference to the haynes, and it was fairly straightforward after I had removed the top engine mount, locked the cam/crank/diesel pump with the pins for belt removal etc. I found that if I lowered the jack holding the engine underneath ( I didn't use a hoist/strongarm ) then the engine moved forward allowing much easier access to the manifolds and turbo. PS. Don't bother trying to separate the turbo from the manifold in the engine bay, just undo the bolts on the exhaust join and lift out the manifold/turbo complete. On my Xant I only did the initial head bolt tightening with a torque wrench, then angle-tightened them so many degrees. What year is your Xantia by the way?
pps... how bad is your HG ? are you sure it has blown? I only ask because apparently a knackered thermostat can produce the symptoms of an early HG failure...
pps... how bad is your HG ? are you sure it has blown? I only ask because apparently a knackered thermostat can produce the symptoms of an early HG failure...