Another cam belt tension question

sbraud · Unread post by **sbraud** » 12 Aug 2005, 23:24

I’m considering changing the cam belt on our Saxo 1.1. In the past I’ve changed a Pug 1.9 diesel with success. It went on to do another 50K before I wrote it off, so I know what’s involved. The thing is this… There was no mention of a ``special electronic tool’’ to test belt tension on the Pug unit, so I got on with it.
Now I have a Xantia and Saxo.
I past on Xant belt change to a mechanic because of this ``special tool’’ and Haynes manual precaution, but afterwards I realised he would not have had this tool either!! Touch wood Xantia has done 15k since belt change.
So my dilemma is this… Do I need this tool to tension Saxo belt or can it be reliably done without it. Is this tool just a way of Citroen covering their backs or is very important to getting the tension spot on [?][?]

Cheers guys.
Steve

drpau · Unread post by **drpau** » 12 Aug 2005, 23:42

From what Ive read on here Steve even a lot of the Citroen dealers dont use the tool/ even know of its existance....

Stinkwheel · Unread post by **Stinkwheel** » 13 Aug 2005, 00:21

I've not known many garages use the electronic tensioner on any car.
I did the one on my wifes nissan, just did the usual, tension up and turn the 90 degrees by hand, looks about right,leave it at that. Similar on couple of Cit's I've done. Touch wood, no problems.

adzbaby · Unread post by **adzbaby** » 13 Aug 2005, 02:29

I would have to agree with ol stink there! I have changed the timing belt on two of my xants with a mechanic of 45 years experience (one has down 25k the other 12k) and he went with the same same philosophy, if you can turn the belt 90° between the longest points then thats all well and good.
It's worth noting the tension on the old belt and just tightening up a few degrees from that, if possible! The belts I have fitted, I have barely managed to get on with the tensioner at lowest tension let alone fiddle with tension settings. Balls to the electronic tool in my experience, I say, what what! [;)]

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 13 Aug 2005, 02:32

Absolutely agree with all of the above. I've fitted timing belts to all sorts of engines in the past. Some have probably been a little tight, and others possibly a little slack, but it's never made any difference at all. When you see how slack some belts are when they are removed (some so slack you can take them off without slackening the tensioner!!) then getting the belt tension "spot on" seems utterly insignificant.

sbraud · Unread post by **sbraud** » 13 Aug 2005, 17:08

Thanks guys, very interesting… I may do the job myself after all.
Gents ``May the sun be always on your back and the wind in your hair’’ Gladiator 2000 – I think… [:D]
Cheers
Steve
Ps. ``wind in hair’’ bit gets harder each year!! [:o)][;)]

madasafish · Unread post by **madasafish** » 13 Aug 2005, 17:19

I made up a tool from the Haynes instructions: 2kg weight, old door bolt for my 106 1.4 diesel. Worked perfectly..

Unread post by **alan s** » 13 Aug 2005, 19:19

A few years back, I did a bit of investigating, (or more correctly I had people who did it for me) to try to ascertain the necessity of this tool due to it constantly being used as something deep and meaningful particularly in the BOL. This is what we found:
Most dealers didn't have them but were aware of their existence.
Those that did have them had lost the instructions or they were broken and unuseable.
Dealers were chaging usually 300 quid to fit a belt supposedly using this tool (that they didn't have.)
Some were charging 180 quid to test the belt with this tool (that they didn't have.)
Those that used the tool also tested it by hand (as per Haynes) after using the tool and if they weren't convinced it was right, they did it by eye and feel anyway.
Most agreed that the use of the tool effectively on most models was only possible with the engine out of the car due to space constraints.
Upon getting access to some genuine Cit service material and reading the instructions on how to fit belts on some models, it became obvious that the 'special tool' was there mainly to cover the arses of Mr H and his BOL, Mr Cit, the belt maker and of course the dealer who fitted it.
The greatest safeguards seemed to be the order in which the belt was fitted, the order in which the tensioner pulleys were adjusted (based on 16V versions) and the direction the tensioners were rotated to get the tension applied to the correct portion of the belt.
So, I'd suggest, see if you can cast an eye on a service manual, but if not, look at the point where the tensioner hits the belt and if there's a manually adjustable tensioner (as opposed to a spring loaded variety) make a note of it's position in relation to the mounting bolt to get an idea of rotation. Mark the new belt alongside the old one to double check the fitting, check the tensioner bearings for wear or tightness and carefully check the pump and replace if necessary.
Working on them quite often, we just toss them on as a matter of course these days, but a bit of care needs to be taken so you don't tend to get a bit slap happy.
The 'special tool' is possibly one of the greatest cons of all time IMHO.
Alan S

sbraud · Unread post by **sbraud** » 14 Aug 2005, 17:54

Cheers madasafish, good to see make-your-own-tool actually works. [;)]
Thanks alans for input. I think I may do this one after all. [:0]
Cheers
Steve

carl · Unread post by **carl** » 15 Aug 2005, 03:38

Laser tools do the tensioner for about £5.00. Code 3110 part A. They do not supply direct to the public, but loads of people stock Laser tools. It is a very simple job although it is possible to let the weight tension in the wrong direction. Good luck.