Drop link longevity

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 02 Aug 2005, 01:41

How long should they last? Mine haven't managed 20k miles and I starting to get that tell tale rattle again.

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 02 Aug 2005, 02:34

is this the V6?

Post by **Peter.N.** » 02 Aug 2005, 02:45

125k on my XM and I drive over forest tracks everyday!

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 02 Aug 2005, 02:56

I've seen a lot changed but not all that many worn out.
I have long held the theory that most that get changed due to the dreaded "clunk" are dry not worn out.
If removed from the car, tapped with a small ball pein hammer, dust covers removed and refitted and greased properly, they seem to last for years.
I did mine around 4 years ago when they seemed to be clunking, found they were almost seized and had no problems since. I know a lot of others who have found the same thing.
Alan S

Dave Bamber · Post by **Dave Bamber** » 02 Aug 2005, 03:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by alans

I've seen a lot changed but not all that many worn out.
I have long held the theory that most that get changed due to the dreaded "clunk" are dry not worn out.
If removed from the car, tapped with a small ball pein hammer, dust covers removed and refitted and greased properly, they seem to last for years.
I did mine around 4 years ago when they seemed to be clunking, found they were almost seized and had no problems since. I know a lot of others who have found the same thing.
Alan S
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I've done this on the BX and it works well. The hard bit is removing the drop link! The best method I've found is buy a wire brush thingy that fits in an electric drill and brush the hell out of the exposed thread to clean all the rust off. The nut should come off a treat.

xantiav6 · Post by **xantiav6** » 02 Aug 2005, 12:28

On my previous VSX I replaced the originals at 40,000 miles. The next set was GSF and lasted until 60,000, the next was a generic part fitted by a Citroen specialist. These started rattling after about 1000 miles. I then fitted a genuine Citroen set which were still OK when I sold the car at 95,000 miles.
On my current car, I replaced the presumed original links at 60,000 miles (the old ones were probably OK) with genuine Citroen parts, and they are still OK at 90,000 miles.
I still have the slight rattle going over bumps that caused me to replace the links at 60,000. I cant see anything obviously loose or worn.

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 02 Aug 2005, 12:36

How likely is it that mine were the original at 130,000....the glow plugs also appeared to be the originals too?

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 02 Aug 2005, 12:37

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ActivaV6uk

is this the V6?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes this is the V6. The pair I fitted were from GSF. Maybe I should invest in a pair of genuine Citroen items, they sound better(sic). If I can get them off without knackering them I'll check out the lube thing.

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 02 Aug 2005, 12:37

The early Xantias had a 10mm thread on the ball joints, later models had 12mm - the older type fits the newer car, but does not seat properly due to the extra 2mm play in the fixing hole. The later (12mm)type appear to be of a stronger design.
1) Make sure you get the correct size for your car
2) If your feeling a bit handy, drill out the holes on an early car to 12mm (NB: hardened steel!)
- and then there are different manufactures - its difficult to tell good drop links from poor copies. . .
//NiSk

sponix · Post by **sponix** » 03 Aug 2005, 14:07

Well, just replaced one on my 2001 Berlingo and decided to take the old one apart to see if it could be re-greased.
Imagine my surprise when I find that the joint is made of PLASTIC!
I couldn't believe it! I understand now why the joint had failed after only ~35k miles.
The link itself is metal and into the end of this is a push-fit plastic 'cup'. The ball joint then 'clicks' into this plastic cup and the rubber boot (Packed with grease) slips over the top..
Obviously, once the plastic wears there will be play in the joint, resulting in the dreaded 'clonk'. Why the heck have Citroen done this? What was wrong with the 'all metal' joint?
I have a feeling that this will become a more common problem on newer cars fitted with plastic suspension joints.
I have now replaced it with a conventional all-metal link (Made in China!) so we'll see how that goes.
By comparison, 'her indoors' has a ZX, 1995 vintage that its still on the original links after ~80k miles.
Edit: For anyone searching these forums at a later date you need a T-30 torx driver and a 16mm af ring spanner to remove the joints.

Mandrake · Post by **Mandrake** » 03 Aug 2005, 14:21

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by sponix

Well, just replaced one on my 2001 Berlingo and decided to take the old one apart to see if it could be re-greased.
Imagine my surprise when I find that the joint is made of PLASTIC!
I couldn't believe it! I understand now why the joint had failed after only ~35k miles.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Unlikely to be plastic. It may be some kind of hard nylon.
The Preloading bushes on the rollbar on the GS had hard nylon shells for the main rollbar to turn in, although the actual rollbar droplink balljoints were metal.
Still, don't like the sound of nylon balljoints [xx(] hopefully they aren't used in the Xantia...
Regards,
Simon

sponix · Post by **sponix** » 03 Aug 2005, 14:51

Well, nylon is a sort of plastic. Hard or not I'm just surprised they have lasted as long as they have!
They are easy to spot-the rear of the joint is white plastic.

BrianM · Post by **BrianM** » 05 Aug 2005, 01:14

I put in a set and they lasted 8K miles. Bought genuine one then, in 12K now still no rattle. A lot more expensive though.
Brian

sponix · Post by **sponix** » 05 Aug 2005, 14:12

Well, I have kept the receipt and noted the mileage. It'll be going back if it fails in under a year/10K miles..

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 05 Aug 2005, 15:18

stempy my v6 is starting to make this noise too it could be because of the very stiff role bar putting so much stress on them, i'm not botherd about fitting new ones to mine as i will be putting activa on it and in doing so all of the droplinks rolebars and subframes are replaced any way. my sujestion would be get the best you can and if those are from citroen then thats what you need to buy (the probple is like all compnays citroen sell what ever they have...
Andy