Any advice on Flaring tool.
Moderator: RichardW
Any advice on Flaring tool.
I have a problem with a rounded leaking union on my rear height corrector. I noticed a leak from the nut before the Car went for it MOT, it only leaked as the suspension lowered. I thought it would be easy to ammend and just need a tighten, oh how easy I thought until I realised some bugger had completely rounded the nut and I mean completely!
I want to remove the nut and replace the pipe, however this particular pipe runs all the way back to the engine bay (nice!) so I want to bung a join in where it runs over the top of the rear sub frame. I have purchased the joining block from GSF and 2 new union nuts and seals. The next thing I need is a flaring kit, I get a trade discount through Draper and they only sell one kit and its in imperial (see link http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PI ... rce=affwin) is this going to be suitable (what are the specs of the thin metal hydraulic pipes) and can anyone give me any advice on doing this as I have never attempted it before (seems like it should be quite straight forward to me or maybe not [xx(])?!!
P.S. it is ok to bung a a joining block in pretty much anywhere on the system, or are joins unsuitable on the higher pressure side of the circuit?
I want to remove the nut and replace the pipe, however this particular pipe runs all the way back to the engine bay (nice!) so I want to bung a join in where it runs over the top of the rear sub frame. I have purchased the joining block from GSF and 2 new union nuts and seals. The next thing I need is a flaring kit, I get a trade discount through Draper and they only sell one kit and its in imperial (see link http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PI ... rce=affwin) is this going to be suitable (what are the specs of the thin metal hydraulic pipes) and can anyone give me any advice on doing this as I have never attempted it before (seems like it should be quite straight forward to me or maybe not [xx(])?!!
P.S. it is ok to bung a a joining block in pretty much anywhere on the system, or are joins unsuitable on the higher pressure side of the circuit?
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Well,
Yes its OK to use a jointing block (im guessing this is a 3.5mm pipe) and new seals pipe ends.
Flaring tool wise you will need a proper citroen flare pattern, different to any normal type and definitly not going to be in your draper kit.
You can get the tools from GSF, Plaedies even sykes pickavant and the like do them. They are definitly not as cheap as the normal type kits though, and you will need adaptors to do 3.5mm 4.5mm and possibly the 6.75mm tubes.
Yes its OK to use a jointing block (im guessing this is a 3.5mm pipe) and new seals pipe ends.
Flaring tool wise you will need a proper citroen flare pattern, different to any normal type and definitly not going to be in your draper kit.
You can get the tools from GSF, Plaedies even sykes pickavant and the like do them. They are definitly not as cheap as the normal type kits though, and you will need adaptors to do 3.5mm 4.5mm and possibly the 6.75mm tubes.
Ideally I would replace the whole pipe but it is seriously not an easy one but any means. It twists, turns, seems to go everywhere along its merry way to the engine bay, would be far easier to put a join in methinks.
I have been trying the track down the necessary tool for the job, Pleiades is the only place I can find to get the bits but £54+vat, ouch. Has anyone here got the necessarys and would be prepared to 'flare' for a few bob? I can post the section of the pipe and pay for the service and return postage? Any takers please don't hesitate to come forward and let youself be known [;)].
It is so bloody typical, if it were the nut next to this one then it would be so simple, as the pipe is about 15 cm long and both ends are easily accesible, oh no, can't be like that, it has to be the awkward barsteward that is a nightmare!!
I have been trying the track down the necessary tool for the job, Pleiades is the only place I can find to get the bits but £54+vat, ouch. Has anyone here got the necessarys and would be prepared to 'flare' for a few bob? I can post the section of the pipe and pay for the service and return postage? Any takers please don't hesitate to come forward and let youself be known [;)].
It is so bloody typical, if it were the nut next to this one then it would be so simple, as the pipe is about 15 cm long and both ends are easily accesible, oh no, can't be like that, it has to be the awkward barsteward that is a nightmare!!
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Unfortunately you will need to flare the pipe that remains on the car too, so you will need to bring the tool to the car....
I think Pleadies do a small one size only flaring tool that you can use on pipes on the car.
Post up where you are - several folk have got flaring tools, and may be close enough to lend. Otherwise have a look in Yellow Pages and see if there is a Cit independent near by, they will probably lend you the tool for a beer token or two [;)]
I think Pleadies do a small one size only flaring tool that you can use on pipes on the car.
Post up where you are - several folk have got flaring tools, and may be close enough to lend. Otherwise have a look in Yellow Pages and see if there is a Cit independent near by, they will probably lend you the tool for a beer token or two [;)]
i have the hand held flairing tool from pleiades,but you will have a job sticking your car in the post,i think if you get under your car and have a real good look the front to rear pipes terminate along the rear edge of front subframe,you just have to make sure that where they disapear over rear subframe they dont touch or rub against any thing
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
The main problem is this pipe goes back over the top of the rear sub frame, over and under a few others, then dives down at 90° and then goes 90° again to run horizontally along the underneath of the car to the front subframe as you stated Malcolm. It is a lot of fiddly work to replace the entire section, whereas fitting a join in seems to be a much quicker and equally good fix in my mind.
I can't see how the part would come ready in that shape as it couldn't be installed without having to remove a load of the other pipes, amongst other things, which I darn't touch going by the results achieved on the original union nut.
Also Malcolm, are you just taunting me to let me know you have the tool I need?!! [;)] evil man. It is difficult as I can't really justify coughing up all that cash for something I am only going to need for half an hour and probably never use again. Sob sob, the baby is cold and the wife hungry, please sir can you spare a couple of pennies for a tube of glue?
I can't see how the part would come ready in that shape as it couldn't be installed without having to remove a load of the other pipes, amongst other things, which I darn't touch going by the results achieved on the original union nut.
Also Malcolm, are you just taunting me to let me know you have the tool I need?!! [;)] evil man. It is difficult as I can't really justify coughing up all that cash for something I am only going to need for half an hour and probably never use again. Sob sob, the baby is cold and the wife hungry, please sir can you spare a couple of pennies for a tube of glue?
well there you go to do the job properly your ment to drop rear subframe,few weeks back i fitted complete set of front to rear pipes to a BX for one of my customers,then you make sure they take right route,also the hand held tool dose not make a perfect flaire every time on steel pipes,have you checked the rubber pipe coming from the top of the h/c because if this has split it may look like you metal pipe union has a leak ,by the by where do you live
regards malcolm
regards malcolm
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to do this pipe you will have to drop both sub frames and i have had the pleasure of doing it (shudders) you will also need to remoave the LHM reserve which is really the easy bit.
there is another option on the pipe use mall grips (i think thats what there called) there the ones that lock onto nuts etc and stay there you can then use it to undo the pipe or tighten it. you idealy want to replace the seal at least. its a shame your not colser this sort of thing is a doddle on my ramps .
Andy
there is another option on the pipe use mall grips (i think thats what there called) there the ones that lock onto nuts etc and stay there you can then use it to undo the pipe or tighten it. you idealy want to replace the seal at least. its a shame your not colser this sort of thing is a doddle on my ramps .
Andy
I have already tightened the nut up with a pair of 'mole'? grips. Should be able to know whether it has done the job (when I get the parts I need) once I get the engine started. Otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and order the flaring tool from Pleiades as I can't be dropping sub frames etc, rather spend the cash and fit a join than spend all those hours.