Please can someone outline the dismantling sequence (and extent necessary) to replace the front bushes on the rear subframe. (or refer me to previous correspondence on this topic).
Thanks
Ken Hall
1.9TDZX rear suspension bushes
Moderator: RichardW
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Jon
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... PIC_ID=252
Mr D Burns gave a comprehensive answer on this topic. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
A couple of things to add, apart from what Dave said about supporting the rear beam on a jack, that you will have to take up the boot carpet to undo the nuts for the rear rear mounts which are in the boot floor, once undone the front rear mounts can then be tackled with the weight of the rear beam being supported on a trolley jack which can then be lowered when all the mounts are undone so that they can be replaced.
Jon Wood
IT Supervisor
GSF t/as Andyspares
Mr D Burns gave a comprehensive answer on this topic. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
A couple of things to add, apart from what Dave said about supporting the rear beam on a jack, that you will have to take up the boot carpet to undo the nuts for the rear rear mounts which are in the boot floor, once undone the front rear mounts can then be tackled with the weight of the rear beam being supported on a trolley jack which can then be lowered when all the mounts are undone so that they can be replaced.
Jon Wood
IT Supervisor
GSF t/as Andyspares
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Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
A bit more from that man<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Car has to be supported with stands at the rear jack point's on the sill's, use a piece of thick plywood between stand and sill.
Remove spare wheel cage, pull rubber silencer mountings off (washing up liquid helps them slide off) and rest silencer on something suitable, there isn't enough movement available to lower it to the ground IIRC.
Unclip handbrake cables from fuel tank, wire brush and WD40 the protruding threads on the axle to mounting bolts and loosen them.
When I do these mountings I also remove the lower bolt's from the damper, this lets the trailing arm's swing down releasing any spring tension on them, if you don't the residual tension on the springs can twist the axle making withdrawl of the axle mounting bolt's awkward, and re-alignment even more so.
When the axle mounting bolt's are loose and turn freely, get a trolley jack under the centre of the axle tube, remove the front mounting nut's inside the car (you only have to pull the rear seat forward, don't take it out), loosen the rear mounting nuts (inner and outer) to allow plenty of movement and lower the jack allowing the axle to swing down, watching the flexible brake pipe while doing so.
Swap the mounting's, bung plenty of copper grease on the bolt's, and carefully jack it back up, make sure all bolt's are tightened securely.
The only real difficulty you might encounter is the external mounting bolt's, the protruding thread will be heavily corroded, I use a thread restoring file in such cases, this cleans out the rust from the valleys in the threads making removal of the nut easey, the bolts them selves can also be rusted into the axle mounting holes, plenty of penetrating oil usualy gets them going though.
Good luck
Dave
Car has to be supported with stands at the rear jack point's on the sill's, use a piece of thick plywood between stand and sill.
Remove spare wheel cage, pull rubber silencer mountings off (washing up liquid helps them slide off) and rest silencer on something suitable, there isn't enough movement available to lower it to the ground IIRC.
Unclip handbrake cables from fuel tank, wire brush and WD40 the protruding threads on the axle to mounting bolts and loosen them.
When I do these mountings I also remove the lower bolt's from the damper, this lets the trailing arm's swing down releasing any spring tension on them, if you don't the residual tension on the springs can twist the axle making withdrawl of the axle mounting bolt's awkward, and re-alignment even more so.
When the axle mounting bolt's are loose and turn freely, get a trolley jack under the centre of the axle tube, remove the front mounting nut's inside the car (you only have to pull the rear seat forward, don't take it out), loosen the rear mounting nuts (inner and outer) to allow plenty of movement and lower the jack allowing the axle to swing down, watching the flexible brake pipe while doing so.
Swap the mounting's, bung plenty of copper grease on the bolt's, and carefully jack it back up, make sure all bolt's are tightened securely.
The only real difficulty you might encounter is the external mounting bolt's, the protruding thread will be heavily corroded, I use a thread restoring file in such cases, this cleans out the rust from the valleys in the threads making removal of the nut easey, the bolts them selves can also be rusted into the axle mounting holes, plenty of penetrating oil usualy gets them going though.
Good luck
Dave