Valve stem seals
Moderator: RichardW
Valve stem seals
I have a problem with a smokey 205 gti,kicking out blue smoke,i also had this problem on a previous 405 sri,this was found to be the stem seals and they were replaced by a mechanic who did it without taking the head off!!Does anybody know how to do this as i want to try it on my 205,many thanks.
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- Posts: 1260
- Joined: 01 May 2004, 19:49
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: Current - Slightly modified 2016 Pug 308 Puretech 130 Allure
Past:
2003 - 206 GLX TU3JP & 206 SE ET3JP4
1995 - 405 Executive XU10J2
1996 - 406 GLX XU10J4R
1994 - 405 GTX XU10J2 - x 1
Hi
Ive only had the 206 a few days but first impressions are very very good, The Pugs I have had in order are a 1994 2 litre 405 GTX ( Not a bad motor, Shame about the lack of ABS ) then a 1996 2 litre 16 valve 406 GLX ( Words fail me how awful the 406 really is! ) & then back to a 1995 2 litre 405 Executive which I kept for 5 years, Very nice spec but cost a lot to keep running.
The 405 is a good car, If you can find one thats been looked after, They are very good at going round corners & not bad on fuel for its size, Better then a lot of newer designs out there.
I really do rate the 405 as a very good car, If a T16 came along for sale & I had the money spare I would snap it up! But the time for my Executive & me to part company came along because it wanted a whole heap of money spending on it.
The 206 is a nice little car, It feels a lot more solid & safer then any 405 could ever be, The brakes are fantastic on the later cars like my one, Its a whole lot lighter on the clutch, steering & throttle etc, Go for a higher spec multiplexed car & you get a lot of toys thrown in to.
I doubt the 206 will ever go around a corner as fast as I could get a 405 around & lift the rear wheel at the same time, But times move on & I do really do rate the 206 as a good small car.
Ive only had the 206 a few days but first impressions are very very good, The Pugs I have had in order are a 1994 2 litre 405 GTX ( Not a bad motor, Shame about the lack of ABS ) then a 1996 2 litre 16 valve 406 GLX ( Words fail me how awful the 406 really is! ) & then back to a 1995 2 litre 405 Executive which I kept for 5 years, Very nice spec but cost a lot to keep running.
The 405 is a good car, If you can find one thats been looked after, They are very good at going round corners & not bad on fuel for its size, Better then a lot of newer designs out there.
I really do rate the 405 as a very good car, If a T16 came along for sale & I had the money spare I would snap it up! But the time for my Executive & me to part company came along because it wanted a whole heap of money spending on it.
The 206 is a nice little car, It feels a lot more solid & safer then any 405 could ever be, The brakes are fantastic on the later cars like my one, Its a whole lot lighter on the clutch, steering & throttle etc, Go for a higher spec multiplexed car & you get a lot of toys thrown in to.
I doubt the 206 will ever go around a corner as fast as I could get a 405 around & lift the rear wheel at the same time, But times move on & I do really do rate the 206 as a good small car.
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- Posts: 192
- Joined: 01 Sep 2004, 14:20
- Location:
- My Cars:
The string job:
Turn engine by hand (remove plugs first)so cylinder one is at Bottom Dead centre.
(ensure all plug hole apertures and cylinder near them is clean and free of dirst before you do this).
Insert about 1-2 metres of nylon rope (clean, no whiskers) about 5mm in diameter.
Turn engine SLOWLY so cylinder is at Top Dead centre.
The cord should now be compressed. and should prevent valve from opening.
Push down on valve stem to show this is so. Remove collets , valve spring and old valve seal. Reassemble.
The trick is ensuring there is enough string to prevent the valve head from dropping down when you remove the collet.
And cleanliness , careful insertion of string and NO knots , ragged edges or joins in string are essentials. (or string MAY get tyangled up .. been there done that.. never again).
You must check the string prevents the valve from moving before removing collets or its a pain to sort out...
Turn engine by hand (remove plugs first)so cylinder one is at Bottom Dead centre.
(ensure all plug hole apertures and cylinder near them is clean and free of dirst before you do this).
Insert about 1-2 metres of nylon rope (clean, no whiskers) about 5mm in diameter.
Turn engine SLOWLY so cylinder is at Top Dead centre.
The cord should now be compressed. and should prevent valve from opening.
Push down on valve stem to show this is so. Remove collets , valve spring and old valve seal. Reassemble.
The trick is ensuring there is enough string to prevent the valve head from dropping down when you remove the collet.
And cleanliness , careful insertion of string and NO knots , ragged edges or joins in string are essentials. (or string MAY get tyangled up .. been there done that.. never again).
You must check the string prevents the valve from moving before removing collets or its a pain to sort out...