I have a -96 model Xanria 2.0i - 16v Break SX. driven 170 tkm
I have a problem with suspension: Last summer the front of car was higher than it should be in my opinion. It is not the highest position. Rear was OK. This continued some weeks. Now few weeks the rear of car is higher than it should be. Front is OK. I have put oil into height corrector mechanims (both: front and rear). I think the fault is in some valve but I do not know where. Where this valve is locating?
I can drive the car but the upper side is a little bit too hard and I like soft suspension.
Does anybody know where I can get more information (f. ex. hydraylic drawing, description about the function of suspension valve by valve, different faults, etc.) about the suspension. There is not enough information in Haynes manual.
Thankfully Tero
Tero
Help: Xantia suspension
Moderator: RichardW
Tero,
Still sounds like height corrector associated to me unless you've got bearings in the struts seizing.
However, here's a site re: Citroen hydraulics. Hope it helps you sort it out. Keep in touch & let us know what you find.
http://web.actwin.com/toaph/citroen/work/work.html
Alan S
Still sounds like height corrector associated to me unless you've got bearings in the struts seizing.
However, here's a site re: Citroen hydraulics. Hope it helps you sort it out. Keep in touch & let us know what you find.
http://web.actwin.com/toaph/citroen/work/work.html
Alan S
Tero,
For what it's worth, I live in Australia where we have some shockers of roads & in some cases dirt tracks for roads. A few years ago I had a problem with the suspension on a CX and it was found that a small stone had jammed itself in the height corrector adjustment linkage!
Don't ask me how, but it found its way in there so anything's possible.
Alan S
For what it's worth, I live in Australia where we have some shockers of roads & in some cases dirt tracks for roads. A few years ago I had a problem with the suspension on a CX and it was found that a small stone had jammed itself in the height corrector adjustment linkage!
Don't ask me how, but it found its way in there so anything's possible.
Alan S
What do you mean about the "dampers" in HCs? I know the springs of course but the "dampers"?
Ho do you Niek and alans find the following? I have lifted and lowered my car regularly and oiled the HCs also. If there is a stone or this fault is because of dirt in HCs should not it place in random position because I have lifted and lowered it many times ... not in same position for weeks and after it again to other position for weeks?
How was your CX, Niek? Does it take one position for weeks and another for weeks?
Tero
Ho do you Niek and alans find the following? I have lifted and lowered my car regularly and oiled the HCs also. If there is a stone or this fault is because of dirt in HCs should not it place in random position because I have lifted and lowered it many times ... not in same position for weeks and after it again to other position for weeks?
How was your CX, Niek? Does it take one position for weeks and another for weeks?
Tero
Tero,
I was the one with the CX <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> The ride was quite weird. It rode rough going up..almost as though it was bottoming out but not as the car was going down (as cars normally do) but as it was coming up; it just went right up & almost felt like the wheels were going to jump in the air.
I could be wrong but perhaps the "dampers" refered to may actually be the filters inside. We had someone on another board a while back tell us that he took the height corrector off his car, soaked it in petrol, shook it around in it and then blew it out with compressed air to clean it out & that this worked quite well. I had a sticky H/C on my sons BX TZi and found that by woking the adjustment lever on the stabiliser (sway) bar that it eventually freed up and worked well thereafter.
Alan S
I was the one with the CX <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> The ride was quite weird. It rode rough going up..almost as though it was bottoming out but not as the car was going down (as cars normally do) but as it was coming up; it just went right up & almost felt like the wheels were going to jump in the air.
I could be wrong but perhaps the "dampers" refered to may actually be the filters inside. We had someone on another board a while back tell us that he took the height corrector off his car, soaked it in petrol, shook it around in it and then blew it out with compressed air to clean it out & that this worked quite well. I had a sticky H/C on my sons BX TZi and found that by woking the adjustment lever on the stabiliser (sway) bar that it eventually freed up and worked well thereafter.
Alan S
-
handman
i have a 1.8 16v 1996 and had problems bleeding the system the heayns manuel was very deceptive, i solved the problem by chance -- put the lever to the normal driving hight , undo the bleed nut a half turn you will hear air come out, lock the nut and lower the lever to min hight then open bleed nut again then lock , now put the lever to normal driveing height, you might also try to spray some wd40 on the anti roll bar bushes they might be sticking -- the engine must be running through all the above hope this helps you
Tero,
The symptoms I had on my Bx sound like what you're experiencing. The car would go to one height in the morning (and sometimes needed help by playing with the lever to get there) but wouldn't return to that height after parking it somewhere for a long time (ie it didn't automaticaly correct the height of the car anymore)
When taking your HC apart you'll see a little 'nut' on one side of the HC (I think it was the side with the little ball-joint on it, the one that links the HC to the rest of the system) with a hole in it. If you were to take this nut off you would find a collection of very thin plates with tiny holes in them separated by standoffs with much larger holes in them. This device connects one side of the HC to the other side of the HC.
When you move your manual height lever you actually push a piston in the HC. This piston connects high pressure LHM pipes with the suspension arm to make the car go up or it connects the suspension arm to the return pipe to lose pressure in the arm and make the car go down. Now to prevent the suspension going 'nuts' when driving over a bumpy road (the piston in the HC would move in and out, continuously connecting HP leads to suspension and suspension to return) they put this damper-thing in. Basically it means that for the piston to go in or out it has to overcome a certain resistance (thin plates with little holes) and the suspension will therefore only correct if the change in height is more constant than bumps would be.
You've guessed it, the little holes in the damper get clogged up with all sorts of stuff and need cleaning (resistance becomes too high for the piston to overcome). Be careful when taking it apart, take note of the sequence. To undo the 'nut' you'll need to make a tool. A largish bolt ground down with a notch cut in it did the trick for me. I'll see if I can find measurements.
Also look where the little ball on the HC is pointing. On the Bx it's pointed down. I put it on the wrong way around and it would wedge itself stuck and the car wouldn't move. (telling you because it's not something you tend to look at with the car stuck in high, alot of green stuff flies out when you undo the HP lead when the car is stuck in high <img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>)
I hope it's not too fuzzy, if you have any questions don't hesitate...
Niek.
The symptoms I had on my Bx sound like what you're experiencing. The car would go to one height in the morning (and sometimes needed help by playing with the lever to get there) but wouldn't return to that height after parking it somewhere for a long time (ie it didn't automaticaly correct the height of the car anymore)
When taking your HC apart you'll see a little 'nut' on one side of the HC (I think it was the side with the little ball-joint on it, the one that links the HC to the rest of the system) with a hole in it. If you were to take this nut off you would find a collection of very thin plates with tiny holes in them separated by standoffs with much larger holes in them. This device connects one side of the HC to the other side of the HC.
When you move your manual height lever you actually push a piston in the HC. This piston connects high pressure LHM pipes with the suspension arm to make the car go up or it connects the suspension arm to the return pipe to lose pressure in the arm and make the car go down. Now to prevent the suspension going 'nuts' when driving over a bumpy road (the piston in the HC would move in and out, continuously connecting HP leads to suspension and suspension to return) they put this damper-thing in. Basically it means that for the piston to go in or out it has to overcome a certain resistance (thin plates with little holes) and the suspension will therefore only correct if the change in height is more constant than bumps would be.
You've guessed it, the little holes in the damper get clogged up with all sorts of stuff and need cleaning (resistance becomes too high for the piston to overcome). Be careful when taking it apart, take note of the sequence. To undo the 'nut' you'll need to make a tool. A largish bolt ground down with a notch cut in it did the trick for me. I'll see if I can find measurements.
Also look where the little ball on the HC is pointing. On the Bx it's pointed down. I put it on the wrong way around and it would wedge itself stuck and the car wouldn't move. (telling you because it's not something you tend to look at with the car stuck in high, alot of green stuff flies out when you undo the HP lead when the car is stuck in high <img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>)
I hope it's not too fuzzy, if you have any questions don't hesitate...
Niek.
Dimemsions of the tool to undo the damper-nut:
Buy a bolt about 30mm long, with an OD (after grinding off the
thread) of about 7mm.
In this bolt you now cut a notch right across the center of top side
(the side you ground the tread off, this notch has to be about 3mm
wide and 2-3mm deep.
That did it on my Bx. I think the HC on the Xantia is the same.
Goodluck,
Niek.
Buy a bolt about 30mm long, with an OD (after grinding off the
thread) of about 7mm.
In this bolt you now cut a notch right across the center of top side
(the side you ground the tread off, this notch has to be about 3mm
wide and 2-3mm deep.
That did it on my Bx. I think the HC on the Xantia is the same.
Goodluck,
Niek.