Testing drop links

Chrispy · Post by **Chrispy** » 15 Jul 2005, 20:03

Is there a way of doing this? Reason I ask is I know at least one of em's knocking, and I've just bought the last one unipart had in when getting my anti sink sphere. I'd like to know which one is the worst or the only bad one. If they're both bad, then so be it, but I'll have to wait for em to get another drop link in for the other side.
Can you just wiggle em or something to check for play?
Cheers,
Chris.

rossnunn · Post by **rossnunn** » 15 Jul 2005, 20:05

I'd me interested in this too as I think mothers will need one soon, there is a slight 'dink' when gong over some bumps.

cheshire61 · Post by **cheshire61** » 15 Jul 2005, 20:28

yes me to how do you know which one is worn it sounds like both of mine are going i hear knocking when going over potholes etc

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 15 Jul 2005, 20:55

they are not easy to test but some fail by running dry of lubricant and injecting some grease 9easier said than done I know) may quieten it - do them one at a time and it may show up.
The correct way is to jack the car carefully to take the load off the anti-roll bar. Again not easy - then attack it with levers and see if you can find play. Not quite so difficult on a 4 post lift as you can lever from the wheel channels but I don't suppose you have one.
They are not expensive so easiest to replace both. I'm sure GSF have them in stock as have others. I wasn't even sure if Unipart were still in business which suggests they have contracted considerably.
Jeremy

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 15 Jul 2005, 21:09

Only my second BX droplink ever with visual play (wear) was replaced last weekend [8D]
Now that is has been replaced I can hear the other one begging for a similar job - but there is no play visible whatsoever [8)]
It really is like Jeremy writes : your ears are the best droplink testers ...

Richard Gallagher · Post by **Richard Gallagher** » 15 Jul 2005, 21:23

If you wish to find out which side is knocking then drive over a pothole/manhole cover that will only affect one wheel. The side with the defect will knock, the other will not.

Chrispy · Post by **Chrispy** » 15 Jul 2005, 22:02

Gotcha. There's plenty of potholes near where I live (bloody British roads) so that will be easy!
Cheers folks.
Chris.

Oscar Too · Post by **Oscar Too** » 15 Jul 2005, 22:20

Anything to watch out for when replacing them? Such as: how to do it?
I need to do mine, but it will be another first for me.
Oscar

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 15 Jul 2005, 22:38

Well one of mine had gone so decided since the car was going up may aswell replace both of them....at least that way i know there done and there fairly cheap....not a major expense certainly

vanny · Post by **vanny** » 16 Jul 2005, 03:21

Ha, well i did mine to find it was the lower mount not the drop link!
Things to remember when doing them, well to be honest you'll have a near impossible time to get the upper most nut off all the way! you can get it almost to the top without too much hassle, but you have to hold the top of them with a spanner/grips to stop it turning and when the nut gets too hi its difficult to shift! Solutions are either to super heat the nut and trash the nylock, or cut it off with a grinder when you have the nut as high as possible! Obviously my preference is the grinder one

but i think there is another possible way to do it!
However you do it, it wont take long, maybe 30 minutes perside max?

mezuk04 · Post by **mezuk04** » 16 Jul 2005, 16:15

My drop links would appear to have been the originals after 130,000 miles so well impressed, even the glow plugs seemed to be the originals too....took for ever to get the nuts off....a lot of man handling involved

Chrispy · Post by **Chrispy** » 16 Jul 2005, 20:41

Righto, just replaced the drivers side drop link as that was the noisy one AFAIK. The nut size is 17mm and they came off without too much hassle, although an allen key is required to stop the bolt from turning in the middle. Then, I realised that the strut would have to be jacked up as with it dangling whilst the car was jacked up, it was pulling the upper bolt of the drop link at a funny angle and so wouldn't come out. The new one bolted on ok and away we went.
Scrubbing the whole nut/ etc beforehand really helped, as did drowning the whole lot in WD40. No nyloc trouble for me!