405 running and starting probs

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ayden
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405 running and starting probs

Post by ayden »

Hi All!
Ive been having some really wierd problems with my 405 ive just been camping and yesterday it started ok and then just died, so thinking nothing of it i started it again but only this time it was only running on what sounded like 3 cylinders this stopped after about 20 seconds, so i continued as normal got to my destination but on the way back the engine stopped and backfired to the point where i thought i had hit something, the engine came back alive then again it backfired yet again except this time the engine didnt restart so i pulled over and as i turned the key to take it out the engine turned over just a fraction but enought to be noticable i managed to get it started and back to where i was staying without any problems and i had a look and noticed that one of the spark plugs was covered in oil and wasnt very tight so i removed it cleaned and refitted, on the end spark plug #1 i think the gap was bigger than on the previous 3 but it was the electrode that looked like it had dropped but seeing as i was in the middle of the forest there wasnt much i could do although the car started as normal after removing and refitting the spark plugs.
Anyway i got back today and replaced all the spark plugs thinking i had cured the problem ! Oh how i was wrong, it went back to backfiring and not starting and now will just cutout without backfiring and the way its cutting out is like its losing the spark or just not firing so i looked at the dizzy cap and the rotor arm and the dizzy cap had been totally mangled on the inside so i replaced that but to no avail, but i keep noticing that just before its about to go the rev counter needle jumps up and down very irratically then just die then again as soon as i turn the key to take it out the engine rumbles and you can feel it throughout the car.
i would be truly greatful if someone could help me as i need the car for work and dont particularly want to buy another car as i like this one to much [:D] thanks All
Paulmi16
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Post by Paulmi16 »

I'd suggest the basics, such as checking the timing, that all wiring connections and plugs are making a good contact. Are the spark plugs the right ones for the car as they seem they have introduced another problem. As for the distributer does the shaft that the rotor arm fits onto have an excessive amount of movement in it, thus mangeling the cap and arm. If so a replacement from the scrappies might be a solution. Also the coil maybe getting to the end of its life, from memory the rev counter is driven from the coil. Haynes give test procdures for electronic ignition system in the manual.
Paul.
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ayden
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Post by ayden »

thanks for the tip, the spark plugs were the right ones for the car but with the symptoms im having i do believe that it all points down to the coil as unplugging the lead (not ht) and replugging it seems to make the car start and work fine until it goes again so tomorrow im off to the scrappy to get myself a new coil and maybe stop off and get some new leads as i have a feeling they havent been changed for a long while . . . . .
thanks Again
Ayden
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Post by demag »

You might be safer buying a brand new coil. If you get one from a scrappy and that one is knackered as well it might throw you totally in the wrong direction.
If you still get the problem with a new coil at least you're fairly sure the problem is elsewhere.
When you say the dizzy cap and rotor arm are mangled inside, do you mean physically damaged or corroded and old?
You mentioned the plugs. Are they fairly clean or oily or covered in carbon? They should be fairly clean and biscuit coloured in a good engine. If your're running rich a sooty colour. Weak, a much paler biscuit colour or even nearly white.
Is the air filter clean(ish)? Can you smell petrol when it plays up.
Did it come on gradually or suddenly? When the engine is warm after you've done some miles or cold not long after starting up?
Is it a fairly regular occurence or just now and again?
Sorry about the third degree but the more info you give us the more we can help you.
Good Luck.
Paulmi16
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Post by Paulmi16 »

I'd agree that a new coil is a better option than a second hand one, I said second hand distrubuter due to the cost of a new one, though make sure the numbers on the dizzy casing are the same.
Paul.
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ayden
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Post by ayden »

BY mangled i meant it had been physically damaged the rotor arm was fine no damage whatsoever the old plugs were that of a good engine, the air filter is clean-ish not as clean as it could be and the smell of petrol is strong when its playing up, it came on suddenly as one day it was fine the next day it was playing up and has been quite regular since then (saturday) thanks for helping [:)]
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demag
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Post by demag »

Mmm. Does sound like ignition then if you can smell petrol. That is interesting when you touch the key it comes back to life again (is that right?) You haven't got a dodgy ignition switch have you? Or a loose wire on the back?
Is it carb or injection? I'm not familiar with these. There's nothing loose causing it to momentarily flood is there? Loose/broken linkage?
Did you put the new coil on?
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ayden
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Post by ayden »

another update. . Coil fitted but still same problems although the backfiring has stopped its just cutting out and refusing to start so when it cut out today i called the AA and within minutes he found the problem . a duff ignition amplifier . So tomorrow i will be looking for a new one so hopefully this will solve all my problems [:D]
thanks for all your help guys [:)]
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demag
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Post by demag »

Nice one ayden
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ayden
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Post by ayden »

Brilliant !! all the problems have been solved car drove fantasticaly once i had the new part in place and even started better ! all i gotta do now is sort out the tyre some s.o.a.b slashed [:(!][}:)]
thanks again !! [:)]
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