405 Estate carburettor version

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 17 Jun 2005, 03:21

Hi guys please can some1 help this car has had a new engine,timing belt& Tensioner,new clutch kit and new driveshafts with all new serviceable items but she will not start,just cranks,petrol coming in, spark at spark plugs but no life,please please what can this be,all valve clearances been triple checked all the ancillaries where taken form the old engine on which I drove the car home on two cylinders,she started on the button,since her transplant she does not want to work?could[:(] it be a relay?or the ignition module?.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 17 Jun 2005, 19:59

Is the spark at the spark plugs at the right time? It's fairly easy to time an engine 180 degrees out, and have the spark at tdc between exhaust and intake rather than tdc between compression and ignition.
If you have both fuel and spark, then timing is your next main culpret.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 18 Jun 2005, 02:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

Is the spark at the spark plugs at the right time? It's fairly easy to time an engine 180 degrees out, and have the spark at tdc between exhaust and intake rather than tdc between compression and ignition.
If you have both fuel and spark, then timing is your next main culpret.
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Hi thanks for coming back, but the mechanic has checked all of this three times so could he of got it wrong?All these mechanics are costing me money and I am not getting anywhere,my mechanical skills are quite limited I can do basic stuff but I am lost with timing,hope to hear from you soon,thanx again.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 18 Jun 2005, 07:51

I think it's fairly obvious that he HAS got it wrong. For and engine to have fuel delivery and a good spark and still not run means there is something wrong with the setup of the engine. Even an engine with sod-all compression, and a carb WAAAY out of tune will still cough and run badly.
It's a bit harsh, but try some easy-start (ether) sprayed into the carb (air cleaner off) while cranking the engine. If it now coughs and splutters and tries to run, then the carb is at fault. If it still refuses to do anything, then the spark is either breaking down at the plugs, or is completely at the wrong time.
Don't do this for long though, as easy-start is the work of the devil, and the pre-ignition it causes will knacker an engine if run for anything longer than a few minutes.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 21 Jun 2005, 17:09

Hi thanx for advising further I will give those 2 things a try today and see how we fair.Thanx again.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 23 Jun 2005, 03:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by r69bp

Hi thanx for advising further I will give those 2 things a try today and see how we fair.Thanx again.
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Hi my findings are that the carburettor seems to be the culprit as the car will run for few seconds and dies but what I do not understand is how a carb works on one engine with no problems whatsoever and then literally swap it over and hey it does not want to work,how can I overhaul this myself?I have a feeling either there is gunk stuck in there or the butterfly is not operating normally,what do you think?

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 23 Jun 2005, 05:47

If you have an "old school" hanes manual, then it should give detailed instructions on how to pull the carb to bits and clean it. Usually it's a case of having the top cover off, cleaning out the float chamber (which is usually full of sh!te) blasting it all though with an airline, and re-assembling.
Other problems can be crud in the float valve, preventing flow, or possibly crud in the jets. Dependent on the type of carb, you can usually have the jets out seperately, and clean them through with some soft wire (fuse wire or copper strand)
Otherwise, scrappies for a replacement carb. Usually only about a tenner these days as there isn't much demand for them.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 29 Jun 2005, 03:15

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

If you have an "old school" hanes manual, then it should give detailed instructions on how to pull the carb to bits and clean it. Usually it's a case of having the top cover off, cleaning out the float chamber (which is usually full of sh!te) blasting it all though with an airline, and re-assembling.
Other problems can be crud in the float valve, preventing flow, or possibly crud in the jets. Dependent on the type of carb, you can usually have the jets out seperately, and clean them through with some soft wire (fuse wire or copper strand)
Otherwise, scrappies for a replacement carb. Usually only about a tenner these days as there isn't much demand for them.
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Hi bad news Fastandfurious not the Carburettor,after further examination it still is not sparking at piston 1&3 but the fuel seems to be more on the plugs of pistons 2&4,does this mean that the timing is out by 180 degrees?,if so how can I adjust this,I was lucky enough to get another ignition module but that did not work either,it just does not seem to be igniting on the correct firing order of 1342,according to haynes manual.
I am getting fed up with this now as this saga has been going on for 6 months,please help!!!.[|)]

Post by **Richard Green** » 29 Jun 2005, 12:31

old way to do it without my books is first set it to TDC, remove distributor cap and ensure rotor arm is pointing at number 1 lead "normally there is a small mark on the outer case of the distributor case" if its is then its setup right, next thing is to ensure your HT leads are in the correct order 1-3-4-2 clockwise, when TDC is set up check the marks on the cam pulley are lined up and not a few teeth out, ill get the timing belt data later and upload to my site later if needed when I have done my chores this morning.

Post by **Richard Green** » 29 Jun 2005, 14:36

procedures uploaded for viewing.
http://groups.msn.com/bitsandpiecesbits ... _Message=5

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 30 Jun 2005, 00:24

if you are getting spark at 2 plugs and not the other 2, it has to be an HT problem. Maybe dead HT leads, or possibly a cracked dizzy cap. Tracking may also be a problem. I would change the plugs, leads, cap and rotor arm to be sure. That *should* fix it. If not, then start looking at the coil suspiciously.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 13 Aug 2005, 22:28

Hi richard sorry but I cannot see the information you sent me is there anyway you could if possible in the next 20 minutes as I have a friend with me to sort this car out .Thanx

demag · Post by **demag** » 15 Aug 2005, 05:01

Hi r69bp,
I hope this doesn't sound too dumb. But I had a Saab 900 once. I could drive it all day, park it up and an hour later it wouldn't start. It took weeks to find the problem which kept showing up as no spark at the plugs. I fitted new plugs, dizzy cap, ignition module etc etc.
It turned out to be a bad engine earth!!
All the earth cables looked fine but when I gave them a bit of a tug they came away in my hand! All the earth cables went one main earth point under the rad. I can only assume over the years the road salt had rotted them to the point where they were still connected but not passing a current.
I remade all the connections, problem solved.

r69bp · Post by **r69bp** » 16 Aug 2005, 02:36

HI I just replaced the carburettor from a solex to a Weber and guess what it still does not fire to combust,I have got spark,fuel and it will just not fire ,the cambelt has been changed also the ignition module and it still does not start,one thing I have noticed when I go to start the car the lights on the dashboard appear to fade away and then come back,could this be an Earthing problem?but surely it should not stop the car from firing.
Since the engine swap in december this flippin thing has not started once,but it was on the button with the old knackered engine?.
Help what do i do now?I am fed up with spending on this part and still not running?please some1 help.

demag · Post by **demag** » 16 Aug 2005, 06:18

If the dash lights are fading it might well be an earth problem.
Firstly DON'T spend any more money on parts, I don't think that is the answer.
Check the battery connections and if necessary clean and tighten them. Get a jump lead or thick piece of wire, connect one end firmly to the engine and the other end firmly to the earth connection on the battery.
Now try it. Anything different? Or the same?
Does the engine turn over quite well or does it struggle?
Is the spark at the plug a nice bright blue spark or a yellowy colour? Blue/pink is good. Are all 4 plugs/leads sparking? Check em one at a time.
Can you smell petrol, are the plugs wet?
You said it starts to run and stops. Is that still the case?
Post back and let us know.
Good luck.