Cambelt Timing Warning

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 11 Jun 2005, 21:10

I've changed many XUD cambelts and when I did my Xantia belt today I did as I have always done and locked the cam and pump sprockets but just marked roughly the crankshaft position. I don't bother as it is such a job to get to the crankshaft timing hole under the starter.
I put the new belt on, rotated the engine twice and saw it was a tooth out on the crank. I had then to locate the timing hole and do it properly.
So be careful, don't try to cut a corner here. I got away with it many times but the one time I did not means I'll do it properly every time in the future.
On the whole, the camblet is considrably easier to change in the Xantia over the Pug 405 or 205 on account of there being more space around that end of the engine.

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 12 Jun 2005, 00:40

Agreed. I was being "talked at" while doing the cambelt on a 1360cc 106 Diesel many years ago, and got it a couple of teeth out.
Cranked on the starter, got piston/valve contact, and mashed 2 valves. They mushroomed, and jammed in the guide. Couldn't afford to have new guides fitted, so off with the head, tap the valve through as much as I dare, grind off the head(!) and tap back through. Guides survived, 2 new valves, put back together, and thankfully it was fine.
There can't be many worse cars than a 405 for doing the belt on. Last one I did cost me 3 knuckles and 2 modified (bent and welded) spanners. NOT fun. It is nice and easy to take the starter off to get to the flywheel timing hole though. I do this every time now. 5 minutes well invested.
David.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 12 Jun 2005, 01:29

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

There can't be many worse cars than a 405 for doing the belt on. Last one I did cost me 3 knuckles and 2 modified (bent and welded) spanners. NOT fun.
David.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Don't I know it! That was my first Xantia and I thought it was going to be trickier than the 405. No need to take off the Turbo hoses or anything. A walk in the park... Mind you, one finger suffered cleaning up the water pump face - the edge of the sump pan is like a knife. Another finger suffered when I trapped it between the drive belt and the hydraulic pump pulley - ouch!
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">It is nice and easy to take the starter off to get to the flywheel timing hole though. I do this every time now. 5 minutes well invested.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I managed it without taking the starter off but it must have taken at least 10. Next time, starter off...

bxbodger · Unread post by **bxbodger** » 12 Jun 2005, 03:16

I don't think the hole in the flywheel backplate is always the diameter its meant to be, what with surface corrosion and all!!!
I ground my flywheel locking tool down slightly and it now goes in easy-peasy (once I can find the hole through the murk....)

oilyspanner · Unread post by **oilyspanner** » 12 Jun 2005, 15:08

Yes BX Bodger my stud that I use for the flywheel has the threads filed off too, all I need now is to weld it to a specially bent piece of flat bar and it may wiggle in behind the starter without removal, I used to have one that worked on non turbo ones using a stud and some wire but will not fit on TDs.
Stewart

dnsey · Unread post by **dnsey** » 12 Jun 2005, 16:09

I prefer the 'mark the belt and pulleys' system, which provides a visual check of correct timing. Doubling up with locking the pulleys should make replacement foolproof.

Unread post by **RichardW** » 13 Jun 2005, 19:44

"That was my first Xantia and I thought it was going to be trickier than the 405. No need to take off the Turbo hoses or anything. A walk in the park... "
Wait till you try a later one with bolt on covers [}:)]
You'll learn some Gallic words you never knew existed when you finally work out that the final bolt for the cover is right under the turbo pipe; getting the turbo pipe off requires the dexterity of Houdini; when you have got the pipe off you still can't see the bolt. The absolute piece de resistance of the design though is that the bolt is a different size to all the cover bolts [:o)]
Hiding the bolt was bad enough, making it a different size was just sheer design vindictiveness [:(!]

roypch · Unread post by **roypch** » 13 Jun 2005, 20:14

I have bolt on covers on the Xantia and I did a recent cam belt change. I removed the bolt for the cover that is under the turbo pipe without removing the turbo pipe somehow. It was a never ending job- just this bolt- and it took a week for my hand to return to normal mode ! Removing the turbo pipe would have made things a bit easier.

fastandfurryous · Unread post by **fastandfurryous** » 13 Jun 2005, 20:26

I cheated. My 405 had the bolt-on covers to begin with, but after I'd decided to change to the earlier covers (I had a complete engine available to nick the backplate and covers from) I just beat the old ones off with a hammer, and fitted the earlier ones. FAAAAR easier, and as a bonus, the water pump for use with earlier covers is £4 cheaper than the later one with the big flangeeee down the side.
The turbo supply pipe is still an utter utter arse though. I think I might change it for a ZX/306 stylee one.