zx brake drum change Help!

koolmacher · Post by **koolmacher** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:11

How do you remove the hub nut from the centre of the drum? I have new drums ready to go on and new hub nuts just can't remove the exsisting nut.

citroenzx · Post by **citroenzx** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:21

Is it all rusted together? if so spray WD40 or suchlike on it over the next couple of days.
Is it a reverse thread??
Would be usefull to know the answers as i soon have to do this

koolmacher · Post by **koolmacher** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:34

It appears to be well greased and the haynes manual doesn't mention any thing about a reverse thread, just came back from a local garage where I was informed its a nightmare of a job I'll need a "grabber" which they havn't got.

citroenzx · Post by **citroenzx** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:47

and is there no way of fabricating one of there "grabbers"?

Post by **RichardW** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:48

You just need to hammer the staking back with a punch, then unscrew the nut. It's normal right hand thread. Pretty tight (150 lbf ft I think) but not that bad. Put the car on stands then put the jack under the back of the trailing arm to hold against whilst you unscrew the nut. It's 32mm - if you're near Glasgow I can lend you a socket that fits. What you might then find is that the drum won't come off, because the bearing is tight on the axle, or the brake shoes are extended past a lip on the drum. You might be able to 'override' the hadnbrake lever to get the shoes back a bit (see Haynes) but if the bearing is tight you might need to pull on the drum whilst and assistant hits the end of the stub axle (screw the nut back on first to avoid wrecking the thread!). The ones on my ZX came off easy enough, even though they were rusty as anything on the outside.
Be prepared for a big job when you do get them off though - you will probably need new cylinders, which will probably also mean new pipes when the old ones shear off. New shoes, and you might need new adjsuters if some herbert has been there before and lost the old ones. New drums might be required if they are badly worn - and this also means new bearings that you will need to get pressed in. Don't start this job at 8pm the day before you need the car!!!

citroenzx · Post by **citroenzx** » 07 Jun 2005, 16:51

Cheers Richard, some useful info

koolmacher · Post by **koolmacher** » 07 Jun 2005, 17:00

Thanks for the info Richard I think I'll leave it till the weekend

wilkobob · Post by **wilkobob** » 07 Jun 2005, 17:15

I just use a large socket set and stand on the bar when undoing them, then use a hammer and a large flat punch to get the drum off if it sticks (ive only ever had this once). Swap the nuts over when you put them back on, this way they can usually be used again, otherwise buy new nuts. Never needed a puller.

koolmacher · Post by **koolmacher** » 07 Jun 2005, 17:41

I,ve tried standing on the extended wheel brace but unfortunately the socket comes away from the nut if only i could get the socket to stay on!

bbrucez · Post by **bbrucez** » 07 Jun 2005, 17:52

That is the only way. Borrow a decent socket.
I couldn't get my drums off until I put the wheel back on with a couple of wheelnuts (after I got the big central nut off of course) and yanked at it - it improves your leverage no end!

rashmore · Post by **rashmore** » 07 Jun 2005, 18:25

stick a piece of tube over your wheel brace to increase length - this will greatly increase leverage while reducing the amount of effort required (over short bar)

wilkobob · Post by **wilkobob** » 07 Jun 2005, 20:20

Use straight bar as well (or if needed straigh bar with socket extension, as you can hold the extension bit), dont use one off at an angle as you will end up losing skin and swearing loudly