BIG THANKS FROM ALSKI

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alski
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BIG THANKS FROM ALSKI

Post by alski »

Just a big thankyou to all you guys who contributed info re my bouncey suspension, your absolutely brilliant.
Got new spheres and did them myself and got my money back from the guy who fitted the wrong ones.
Everything running sweet as a nut.
What a great forum, it has given me far more confidence to tackle jobs myself knowing there are wizards like you lot out there willing to pass on the knowledge to us mere mortals.
Big Up to you all
Al.[:D]
Oscar Too
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Post by Oscar Too »

Al
I've got to agree. Without this forum I'd be richer, stupider, have more time at the weekends and still be running a car that I didn't like and didn't understand. As it is, I'm about J400 poorer, but expect to make that back by looking after the motor myself. I'm driving a great TZD, me and SWMBO have had loads of fun sorting it out and I feel a whole lot more confident about motors. Last week we took it to Edinburgh and back, put 1400 miles on the clock, it didn't miss a beat and we were able to help a mate out by bringing a load of his kit with us. This is a great resource and one of the most friendly, good-natured fora I've come across. I think that the moderators especially deserve a lot of thanks, as well as the forum community at large.
O
patneenan
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Post by patneenan »

Must also agree!
Yesterday changed the L.H.M. cleaned filters etc following Anders suspension service post.
"Tak" Anders
All went well, sucked fluid out of reservoir with a great big syringe!.
Did the job a treat , no spillage at all!
Only had to prime pump twice, but have to do the brakes but I don't fancy it as the bleeders are a pain.
Should I do it?
Oscar Too
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Post by Oscar Too »

Pat
My local specialist says that it's not worth bleeding the brakes. But he also said that if I do it, I should spray liberally with WD40, brush well with a wire brush, and use the right size ring spanner to undo them, as if they snap off in the caliper, I'll need a new caliper. Apparently GSF sell replacement nipples, so I'll chance it when I swap the hydraflush to LHM again. Copperslip on the new nipples and it should be fine, and then at least I know it's been done properly.
Oscar
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

Oscar - there are some posts on the subtle methods of removing brake nipples. The traditional method was to give it gas - ie heat vigorously with an oxy acetylene torch and the more modern refinement seems to be to put a nut over the top and weld it on with a MIG or similar welder.
Theory is that the immense heat travels down the nipple which in due turn expands and contracts, breaking the rust and crud.
Otherwise there are the more traditional methods of drilling out and using easy outs on the thin bit remaining and so on.
jeremy
Oscar Too
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Post by Oscar Too »

Thanks Jeremy
See what I mean about a great forum!?!
O
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Kowalski
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Post by Kowalski »

I'd agree with Jeremy about the MIG being a big step forwards over the oxy-acetylene torch, the oxy torch heats up everything you don't want to heat up i.e. flexible hoses, wheel bearings, ABS sensors, even the caliper etc. The mig specifically only heats up what its applied to so it will heat up a bleed nipple without heating up the caliper if you're careful. The effect you're trying to get is thermal expansion of the nipple without getting any expansion of the caliper so it breaks free and crushes any rust in the threads.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

the idea of heating threaded parts up is to expand outer thread away from inner,not realy sutable on units with seals in,also as calliper is ally it soakes up all the heat regards malcolm
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