Hello everyone,
I am doing a complete overhaul of the calipers on my 96 Xantia.
In the Haynes book this is not described (they refer to the instructions provided with the repair kit). I have obtained a budweg (http://www.budweg.com) repair kit, however without instructions.
The mechanism operating the handbrake is not in good shape - I have removed the large rubber sealing cap, released the lever, the spring and the tiny part that connects the lever to the adjusting mechanism.
My questions are:
1) Do you know what kind of grease to apply to the handbrake lever and the moving parts inside the rubber sealing?
2) How does the adjustment mechanism work? - it looks like the lever is moving the circular plate in and out - how do I disassemble the mechanism?
3) Anyone having an exploded view of the front caliper?
Best regards,
Erik
Xantia caliper
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Hej Erik :
1) You can use aluminium paste which is heat resistent and will not harm any of the alloy components.
2) The handbrake auto adjuster is a rather complex mechanism with some of the more important bits hidden inside the caliper piston. The circular plate is the outermost of 4 concave discs placed opposite each other to make up a disc spring. Takes incredible force to compress this spring. Unless you find it strictly necessary - my advice is not to disassemble this mechanism.
3) One of the guys here registered to the Cit-pr-net (see other thread) may be kind enough to look up the exploded view of a Xantia caliper and submit it here.
The caliper design is - <font color="red"><i>in principle</i></font id="red"> - the same for BX/Xantia/XM. They work exactly the same way.
The BX caliper is shown here : http://citroeny.cz/servis/bxser/rucni_brzda.gif
1) You can use aluminium paste which is heat resistent and will not harm any of the alloy components.
2) The handbrake auto adjuster is a rather complex mechanism with some of the more important bits hidden inside the caliper piston. The circular plate is the outermost of 4 concave discs placed opposite each other to make up a disc spring. Takes incredible force to compress this spring. Unless you find it strictly necessary - my advice is not to disassemble this mechanism.
3) One of the guys here registered to the Cit-pr-net (see other thread) may be kind enough to look up the exploded view of a Xantia caliper and submit it here.
The caliper design is - <font color="red"><i>in principle</i></font id="red"> - the same for BX/Xantia/XM. They work exactly the same way.
The BX caliper is shown here : http://citroeny.cz/servis/bxser/rucni_brzda.gif
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ErikDK
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 30 May 2005, 02:34
Hej Anders,
Thanks a lot for the fast reply - can I use Cu paste instead (I have this already)?
Also, thanks for link to the drawing - now I have a much better idea on whats inside!
The reason for removing the disc is simply that the lever cannot operate the mechanism. On the right side caliper I can see that the lever can move the disc in and out. However, on the left side caliper the lever cannot move it at all so I guess that it is unfortunately necessary to take it apart. I will look into this tomorrow.
Best regards,
Erik
Thanks a lot for the fast reply - can I use Cu paste instead (I have this already)?
Also, thanks for link to the drawing - now I have a much better idea on whats inside!
The reason for removing the disc is simply that the lever cannot operate the mechanism. On the right side caliper I can see that the lever can move the disc in and out. However, on the left side caliper the lever cannot move it at all so I guess that it is unfortunately necessary to take it apart. I will look into this tomorrow.
Best regards,
Erik
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AndersDK
- Posts: 6060
- Joined: 21 Feb 2003, 04:56
- x 1
Do NOT use Cu paste on alu/alloy parts.
I'd say throw away that Cu paste you still have [8]
The reason is that most brake calipers and engine auxillary parts are alloy/alu made. These parts will corrode over time when exposed to Cu paste - because of the electrochemical processes alu/Cu. You can see the alloy parts turn black where exposed to the Cu paste. Also bolts lubed with Cu paste into alloy parts have a strange tendency to lock.
The alu paste is a lot more universal heat (and corrosion) resistant assembly grease.
It's just that Cu paste were the first of this kind to be wellknown aomongst the DIY people - at least here in DK.
I'd say throw away that Cu paste you still have [8]
The reason is that most brake calipers and engine auxillary parts are alloy/alu made. These parts will corrode over time when exposed to Cu paste - because of the electrochemical processes alu/Cu. You can see the alloy parts turn black where exposed to the Cu paste. Also bolts lubed with Cu paste into alloy parts have a strange tendency to lock.
The alu paste is a lot more universal heat (and corrosion) resistant assembly grease.
It's just that Cu paste were the first of this kind to be wellknown aomongst the DIY people - at least here in DK.
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Kowalski
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: 15 Oct 2003, 17:41
I tend to use a waterproof grease because typical copper greases aren't water proof and don't stay put very well.
Lots of people recommend Coppaslip (or equiv) for screw threads, it's only unsuitable for steel/alloy when they're dry (in the wet it can cause electrolytic corrosion and doesn't stay put anyway).
Lots of people recommend Coppaslip (or equiv) for screw threads, it's only unsuitable for steel/alloy when they're dry (in the wet it can cause electrolytic corrosion and doesn't stay put anyway).
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ErikDK
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 30 May 2005, 02:34
Thanks for the answers!
Based on the response from Anders I took my girlfriends good old BX Haynes book and there was all the information on how to overhaul the front caliper. The selfadjusting mechanish is actually a very neat construction.
(Actually, the new Haynes book are not as good as the old ones - my volvo 242 and 360 (and the BX) books contains a lot of exploded views and overhaul instructions absent in my new Haynes Xantia book.)
My problem now is that the 4 concave discs are corroded and stuck in the caliper body - I have removed the lever - which was easy because the discs do not function as a spring any longer. They are now soaked in penetration oil - have anyone tried to press the spindle out? I am afraid that it might bend.
Perhaps I will have to obtain a new (renovated) set of calipers.
Best regards,
Erik
Based on the response from Anders I took my girlfriends good old BX Haynes book and there was all the information on how to overhaul the front caliper. The selfadjusting mechanish is actually a very neat construction.
(Actually, the new Haynes book are not as good as the old ones - my volvo 242 and 360 (and the BX) books contains a lot of exploded views and overhaul instructions absent in my new Haynes Xantia book.)
My problem now is that the 4 concave discs are corroded and stuck in the caliper body - I have removed the lever - which was easy because the discs do not function as a spring any longer. They are now soaked in penetration oil - have anyone tried to press the spindle out? I am afraid that it might bend.
Perhaps I will have to obtain a new (renovated) set of calipers.
Best regards,
Erik
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ErikDK
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 30 May 2005, 02:34
Hello everyone,
I have now removed the spindle operating the piston when the hand brake is is on. I had to carefully knock it out without damaging the tread on the spindle. All the four springs were heavily corroded and the spindle does not move that well.
Based on this experience I will recommend to lubricate the handbrake adjustment mechanism once every two years or so. Its an very easy job: Just remove the plastic clip fixing the rubber sealing, loosen the rubber sealing and apply appropiate grease (as discussed above).
My rubber sealing was damaged and I gues this is part of the reason for the problems I have had. Its a good idea to renew it if it is not in perfect shape.
Best regards,
Erik
I have now removed the spindle operating the piston when the hand brake is is on. I had to carefully knock it out without damaging the tread on the spindle. All the four springs were heavily corroded and the spindle does not move that well.
Based on this experience I will recommend to lubricate the handbrake adjustment mechanism once every two years or so. Its an very easy job: Just remove the plastic clip fixing the rubber sealing, loosen the rubber sealing and apply appropiate grease (as discussed above).
My rubber sealing was damaged and I gues this is part of the reason for the problems I have had. Its a good idea to renew it if it is not in perfect shape.
Best regards,
Erik