And the next job, coolant change Xantia TD

[Gaskin]

Whilst changing accelerator cable, noticed minor water leak from thermostat housing (common I know as I've had it before on the ZX TD). Got a new sealing ring. Might as well change the coolant whilst I'm doing this. I would like to flush the rad too. Are the top and bottom connectors nice and simple or horrible bayonet ones! And given that it has AC etc any idea how you reach all of the connectors and drain plugs? I think I can see most of them but reaching them...... well we shall see.
Cheers
Duncan

[JohnD]

As you feared, the connectors on the rad are the bayonet type. Also the drain plug at the bottom of the rad is difficult to reach because of the compressor - at least it is on the 2.1. I find a pair of pliers best to give a half turn and pull outwards. Also the under-tray needs removing for better access.

[CitroJim]

Just changed my coolant today. Mine has the old type of hose connections with Ford type spring clips. Ahh the joy of a Phase 1 without aircon, drain plug is easy... Bottom hose was a bit of a sod though, well stuck on the rad spigot.
I took the opportuninty to blow out both the rad and intercooler matrixes with an air-line. Shes running a bit cooler now the air is not impeded by a squillion squashed insects...

[PeterMann]

If I were you, I would uses a coolant with a strong anti-boil function. At least 35% glycol will keep the pressure in the cooling system low enough to decrease risk of leaking heater matrix.

[davek-uk]

If you're thinking of disturbing the bottom rad hose on a push fit connection rad, do a search to find the pitfalls first. When replacing my rad I had one hell of a problem removing the bottom hose - it tends to get corroded and stuck. Best left alone unless you really have to disturb it.
Remember to drain the block using the drain plug. If you don't you'll only be changing about half of the coolant.