Rear spheres replacement on XM
Moderator: RichardW
Rear spheres replacement on XM
Is this the right procedure for rear spheres replacement on a XM mk2?
1. Set the suspension to the HIGHEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the rear spheres in anti-clockwise direction until they start to turn.
4. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
5. RELEASE the BLEED SCREW on the front accumulator by ONE TURN.
5. UNSCREW the spheres manually.
6. Insert the new o'ring SEALS and SCREW the new spheres manually. TIGHT well using the chain tool.
7. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
8. TIGHTEN accumulator BLEED SCREW.
9. START THE ENGINE.
10. About five times "Citraerobics".
1. Set the suspension to the HIGHEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the rear spheres in anti-clockwise direction until they start to turn.
4. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
5. RELEASE the BLEED SCREW on the front accumulator by ONE TURN.
5. UNSCREW the spheres manually.
6. Insert the new o'ring SEALS and SCREW the new spheres manually. TIGHT well using the chain tool.
7. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
8. TIGHTEN accumulator BLEED SCREW.
9. START THE ENGINE.
10. About five times "Citraerobics".
The XM rear subframe is the same design as the CX.
Meaning the rear spheres themselves are pressed against the subframe.
It's NOT like the other models in the family where the CYLINDER itself is presed against the subframe on the rear.
This in turn means that on CX & XM (& SM) you can not use the method of setting the suspension to high to lock the rear cylinders against turning - as then you would also lock the spheres against turning.
<font color="red">We need a whole different procedure then.
Basically the method that works best is to remove the cylinder and sphere as a complete unit. Then on the workbench part the cylinder and the sphere.</font id="red">
This method does NOT work on the other models - as you can not get out the cylinder from the subframe not removing the sphere.
NOTE : There is no reason to discharge the accumulator once the suspension is set to low.
Meaning the rear spheres themselves are pressed against the subframe.
It's NOT like the other models in the family where the CYLINDER itself is presed against the subframe on the rear.
This in turn means that on CX & XM (& SM) you can not use the method of setting the suspension to high to lock the rear cylinders against turning - as then you would also lock the spheres against turning.
<font color="red">We need a whole different procedure then.
Basically the method that works best is to remove the cylinder and sphere as a complete unit. Then on the workbench part the cylinder and the sphere.</font id="red">
This method does NOT work on the other models - as you can not get out the cylinder from the subframe not removing the sphere.
NOTE : There is no reason to discharge the accumulator once the suspension is set to low.
Anders,
How do you remove the cilnder and sphere? Any pictures?
So, is this the right method for the XM mk2:
1. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the cilinder and sphere together.
4. Replace spheres on the workbench.
5. Screw cilinder back to frame.
6. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
7. START the engine and do the "Citraerobics".
How do you remove the cilnder and sphere? Any pictures?
So, is this the right method for the XM mk2:
1. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the cilinder and sphere together.
4. Replace spheres on the workbench.
5. Screw cilinder back to frame.
6. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
7. START the engine and do the "Citraerobics".
Apologise to you all - especially to Thunderbird [:(]
I was way out in the woods -
above description is for the CX [:I]
Just found a picture of the XM rear cylinder mount - it's the same principle as on the Xantia & BX [8)] :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/xmser/zadni_naprava_2.gif
Meaning your first procedure is just about right Thunderbird.
I was way out in the woods -
above description is for the CX [:I]
Just found a picture of the XM rear cylinder mount - it's the same principle as on the Xantia & BX [8)] :
http://citroeny.cz/servis/xmser/zadni_naprava_2.gif
Meaning your first procedure is just about right Thunderbird.
I think you forgot the 3rd sphere for the hydractive system. Set the suspension to "low" and let the engine run for about 2 Minutes. Lift the car up, remove the exhaust system, unscrew the sphere (you most likely will need a big hammer and a good chisel to remove it) and fit the new sphere with a new seal. Reinstall the exhaust system, lower the car down, make Citaerobics and enjoy the quality of riding !
- Kowalski
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I tighten spheres by hand and have never had a problem with them. I've found that hand tightened spheres need rather more than hand force to remove, but they can be removed easilly with a tool, unlike tool tightened spheres which can be impossible to get off. The first set of spheres I changed in the first Xantia took a massive amount of force to shift, I had to use a very heavy chain wrench and really yank it hard to get them to budge at all. The chain wrench I had to use makes the chain wrenches other people call heavy look like mere toys.
If you've got the O ring seal in place correctly and have everything clean and free of damage hand tight is absolutely fine. You have to remember that you are tightening against a rubber O ring. Rubber O rings don't need a lot of force to get them to seal, too much force in fact can damage the O ring and cause leaks.
If you've got the O ring seal in place correctly and have everything clean and free of damage hand tight is absolutely fine. You have to remember that you are tightening against a rubber O ring. Rubber O rings don't need a lot of force to get them to seal, too much force in fact can damage the O ring and cause leaks.
when you have put new seal in place it is best todip you finger inthe fluid in end of susp/unit and run it around the cotact face of new seal,this stops seal being chewed up when gently niping sphere with chain, also the only time you should employ butcher approch is if sphere is well and truly seazed
citronut, thanks for the tip.
rg, I will only change the two rear wheels spheres, which probably have ruptured membranes from overcharging the xm...
So, the full operation is now:
1. Set the suspension to the HIGHEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the rear spheres in anti-clockwise direction until they start to turn.
4. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
5. RELEASE the BLEED SCREW on the front accumulator by ONE TURN.
5. UNSCREW the spheres manually.
6. Insert the new o'ring SEALS and dip finger in the fluid in end of susp/unit and run it around the contact face of new seal.
7. SCREW the new spheres manually only (not using the tool).
8. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
9. TIGHTEN accumulator BLEED SCREW.
10. START THE ENGIN.
11. About five times "Citraerobics".
rg, I will only change the two rear wheels spheres, which probably have ruptured membranes from overcharging the xm...
So, the full operation is now:
1. Set the suspension to the HIGHEST position.
2. TURN OFF the engine.
3. UNSCREW the rear spheres in anti-clockwise direction until they start to turn.
4. Set the suspension to the LOWEST position.
5. RELEASE the BLEED SCREW on the front accumulator by ONE TURN.
5. UNSCREW the spheres manually.
6. Insert the new o'ring SEALS and dip finger in the fluid in end of susp/unit and run it around the contact face of new seal.
7. SCREW the new spheres manually only (not using the tool).
8. Reset suspension to NORMAL ride height.
9. TIGHTEN accumulator BLEED SCREW.
10. START THE ENGIN.
11. About five times "Citraerobics".
-
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FrenchLeave</i>
Kowalski, I'm confused by your reference to O ring seals on the spheres, every XM sphere I've changed has had square section seals.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
A square section o-ring is still in the shape of an O when you look at it from the side though [:D] I guess it depends on your definition of an o-ring. You should always use square section o-rings on spheres...
Regards,
Simon
Kowalski, I'm confused by your reference to O ring seals on the spheres, every XM sphere I've changed has had square section seals.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
A square section o-ring is still in the shape of an O when you look at it from the side though [:D] I guess it depends on your definition of an o-ring. You should always use square section o-rings on spheres...
Regards,
Simon