IT'S BACK !!!!!

shaunthesheep · Post by **shaunthesheep** » 29 Sep 2002, 14:18

my mad central locking probelm is back, now it seems to be starting to affect both front doors.
will lock, then unlock (as if a door has been left open), try locking with key, only that door will lock not rest & without central locking working.
could it still be the relay's??
as in the one under the central console & one in the drivers door??.
is there any other relays it could be??, if so where are they.
thax dom <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

avatar · Post by **avatar** » 29 Sep 2002, 17:32

I have had this problem. The only thing that worked for me was replacing the drivers side door lock. It's a bit tricky as the adapter is different from the original. You will need to splice the new wiring into the existing loom. Xantia 1993 TD SX still going strong 140K miles
Regards

Post by **n/a** » 30 Sep 2002, 01:45

hello shaun have checked data book the resuls are from 1992 onther is no relay as such indicated in the book but for the central locking ther are fuses up to 1994 facia location f4 25amp is dedicated to the doors - f8 20amp is c/d/l reciever also does interior + boot,clock,c/lighter,radio 1994 on f830amp does the lot i posted a letter on the battery prob for you
DAVE

Post by **n/a** » 30 Sep 2002, 18:09

minD you i have noticed that because people use the plip the lock tend to seize up some wd40 to free up the mech might help in the key holes (general sevice) and the relays are actualy switches and also suffer the same probs WD40
DAVE
Edited by - mechanicbot on 30 Sep 2002 13:09:46

shaunthesheep · Post by **shaunthesheep** » 01 Oct 2002, 04:59

dave,
i had a look at the central locking control box today, the one under the central console, was a bit dirty, gave a clean, wd40 spray on connecters, will see if that solves the problem, otherwise i will be checking the front door lock's as advised by spanners (topic- battery light stays on). will keep you upated of progress. did find a mystey wire thought, went from ashtray 12v power to 'no where' end of wire had been taped up !!, removed it as i could'nt see point of it.
spanners,
thanks for all your help, will have to look into slacking off the screws on the locks by 1/2 a turn.
dom
Edited by - shaunthesheep on 01 Oct 2002 00:06:24

spanners · Post by **spanners** » 01 Oct 2002, 05:03

shaunthesheep i did leave a reply on battery problem question check the smaal screws on door locks slacken off also make sure the door buttons are aligned properly.

mg46783 · Post by **mg46783** » 01 Oct 2002, 05:23

..on your door lock problem, if you can, isolate each door in turn (from its power I mean ) and try the locks then.. that should pin it down to one door.. Ive found in the past its usually one sticking / worn motor that throws the whole lot into confusion.
( Its worth keeping that info on the fuses that someone posted!! )

mikeread · Post by **mikeread** » 02 Oct 2002, 05:05

I had this problem twice during the summer. The first time it happened it cleared itself two days later. The second time, it wouldn't clear. I eventually tracked it down to a sticky latch on the front passenger door and sorted it out by removing the lock, blasting the latch area with air (lock internals and oil/grease are not a good mix as the dust and oil form a sticky clogging mess) and refitting it.
If you open any of the doors you can fool the locking system into thinking the door is closed by pushing down on the latch which wraps round the pin on the striker plate when the door is closed (you can release it by pulling the door handle as normal). If one of the latches has to be pushed hard to make sytem lock, then you have found the problem. If cleaning does not work, the only opton is a new lock as it looks like they cannot be dismantled.
An alternative cleaner might be an electrical contact cleaner spray such as Servisol (This was great at making the heater fan speed control on a Renault 21 Savanah work properley at no cost, but that is another story), as this does not leave any oily deposits, but getting it into the right area could be problematic.

Fox · Post by **Fox** » 16 Nov 2002, 00:12

I now have this problem as well

How much is replacing the problem lock going to cost?
1994 Citroen Xantia SX 1.9 Turbo Diesel
147,500 miles

avatar · Post by **avatar** » 16 Nov 2002, 14:25

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I now have this problem as well

How much is replacing the problem lock going to cost?
1994 Citroen Xantia SX 1.9 Turbo Diesel
147,500 miles
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I got my new lock from a Citroen Dealer about £80.00 I think there maybe other sources.

creast · Post by **creast** » 29 Jan 2003, 23:19

Really glad I found this site.
My central locking has been so erratic ,sometimes my doors would lock and then 15 mins later unlock themselves!!!Then they would refuse to lock even using the key.
Eventually I pulled the fuse but now my courtesy lights flash when the back doors are open and the 'lights on' alarm sounds sickly too!
I have heard from my neighbour that this happens to Peugeots too!
With all your info I now have a chance to track it down without the garage labour costs.
Thanks!

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 30 Jan 2003, 02:20

One of our series one CXs had the dreaded central locking gremlins. I could lock the car, walk five paces, hear the mournful howl and click, recheck & there was my car unlocked. Repeat several times and eventually find it was locked, return to the car an hour later to find it unlocked, not touch it & return 10 minutes after only to find it was locked again. The only reason it was neither pinched or ransacked I reckon was because the villians were scared of getting themselves accidentally locked inside. <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
Added to this, we also had a lot of problems with the car intermittently being hard to start, so much so that in bad weather or after a long hot drive, it was possible to wind the battery to a standstill. Eventually, we were fitting a later model GTi electrics & mechanicals to it and completely did a rewire, whereupon we discovered a box with a PCB in it under the console & nicely hidden below the ash tray which turned out to be the main controller. Upon opening, it was found that moisture had got into it at some stage and shorted a section out. This also explained why it was worse on wet days/dewy nights & mornings than in prolonged dry spells. It also explained the ever constant power draw and the inconsistency of the problem.
I can't offer any suggestions on where to even start looking for this portion of the system on Xantias & ZXs etc, but when I read a lot of these posts that we get on this central locking gremlin, I often wonder if in fact there are parallels between these later models & my old CX.
The point also worth remembering is that whilst where I am is in the middle of the worst drought in its history, you guys seem to be in the completely opposite situation and these problems have been more prevalent during this time which makes me suspicious that they are moisture related in some form or other.
Food for thought???
Alan S