Rear arm repair kit woes ...

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 23 Apr 2005, 01:35

This weekend replacing the rear arm bearings on my daughter's BX.
One side arm was a totally rusty mess to bits with inner bearing races partly worn out [8] What a nightmare to get them out [:(]
Other side was pretty fresh and easy to work on - but still worn and grease was contaminated with water and rust ...
When all is clean - the first bit you fit is the plastic tube.
Then the inner bearing races.
Now you can finish up each side of the arm as the rubber seal will keep the trust cup and bearing located.
That is - if the trust cup is any good [:(!]
Once I reached this stage on first side of one arm - I suddenly discovered the trust washer sealing surface (against the rubber seal lip) was very rough and marked from the production machinery.
To such an extent it would wear down the seal lip very fast - and then would allow ingress of water again rather fast.
For some odd reason the inner surface of the trust cup is polished [?]
- where it mates the spacer tube.
All 4 trust cups from both repair kits were exactly the same bad finish - and I decided to polish them.
A large drill - some rubber tubing - then the cup slided over - and you can easily polish using emery paper.
I wonder if is NOT just imagination that one side of my own BX has a leaning rear wheel - again after 2 years [V]
This is the repair kit for BX & Xantia Saloon rear arm bearings.
Take a good look if you have purchased these reapir kits for a planned rear arm service job !

czenda · Unread post by **czenda** » 23 Apr 2005, 02:58

Interesting. Was the repair kit purchased from Citroen dealer or was it a secondary manufacturer?
Which side was worse?
I have the feeling that my LH rear wheel is leaning in slightly, which may result in similar ordeal sooner or later.

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 23 Apr 2005, 03:17

I have replaced several sets of trailing arm bearings in different vehicles and have never had them fail again. They usually initially fail due to lack of lubrication, so when I replace them I fill the arm, between the bearings with grease. The easiest way to remove the outer part of the bearing from the arm is (if you have a welder) to run some weld round the inside of it, when it cools it will shrink and can be be easily prised out with a couple of screwdrivers

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 23 Apr 2005, 04:41

Repair kit was aftermarket supplier.
Worst arm was the kerb (passenger) side - believe the other side (the best) has been replaced before as a complete arm. Car is an '89.
I did try MIG weld - but could not grind down clean the race ( for rust) to make a weld - except for a blob. The races finally split from my efforts.
In this instance it was no longer a bearing race - but something very badly pitted and rusty. Guess any dealer/shop would replace the arm complete.

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 23 Apr 2005, 14:24

MIG welders dont like anything greasy/dirty, an ordinary arc welder is a must for that job.