405 cam belt

ssm · Post by **ssm** » 21 Apr 2005, 03:53

I have a K reg 405 1.9 turbo diesel, 209k miles, I got this car 2 years ago because I needed a cheap one quickly, it is probably the most reliable car I have had and I have had a few, I don't know the history of the cam belt but I think it is time for a change, a local garage quoted me £130 for a belt change, but couldn't guarantee the belt unless they change the whole kit at a cost of £247, what does the kit consist of, is £247 a fair price, I have changed ford belts before but looking at this one there don't appear to be much room, I know the dangers of leaving it I also know the dangers of attempting it and messing it up. Any help and advice would be appreciated.Many thanks
ssm
btw great forum

Dave Bamber · Post by **Dave Bamber** » 21 Apr 2005, 04:50

Full kit must be, belt, adjuster, idler and water pump. Have a check on the prices at the top in the HGSF bit. It is the best way to replace the lot if a little dear.

ssm · Post by **ssm** » 22 Apr 2005, 05:27

thanks mate, done a quick costing less than £70, tempted to tackle the job myself, any special tools needed, anything i should watch out for, apart from the grief from the wife when she has to get the bus to go shopping, what sort of time scale are we looking at.
many thanks
ssm

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 22 Apr 2005, 18:35

I've just done the same job on my ZX (which being a non-turbo is a little easier to get to). No special tools needed if you time the engine by marking the sprockets and old belt, transferring the marks to the new belt, and fitting the new belt to line up to the marks you previously made on the sprockets.
The hard part is meant to be getting the crankshaft pully bolt out, but I had no problems (22mm six sided deep socket). Getting the spring back into the tensioner was a small pain. Cleaning the old water pump gasket off of the block took me a while - Tip, use a window scraper that holds a stanley knife blade.
All in it took me about 3 1/2 hours without a manual, including flushing and bleeding the coolant afterwards.

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 22 Apr 2005, 18:39

BTW, unless yours is making a noise you may not need to change the rollers and water pump.
I'd mark it all up and take the belt off, then check the rollers and pump. They may be perfect and not need changing. That's one of the advantages of DIY, you choose what needs doing - not what the garage wants to try stitching you up for.
If it's just the belt, then it's much cheaper and would be a quick job - couple of hours max.

ssm · Post by **ssm** » 23 Apr 2005, 03:45

thanks for that, the more i think about it the more i am convinced that i will attempt it, once again thanks to those who replied
ssm

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 23 Apr 2005, 06:28

Doing this job, you must time the engine. To do this needs 3 m8x50ish bolts, and an 8mm dowel. The 8mm dowel fits into a hole in the crankcase flange behind the starter motor, and locks the chankshaft at Cyl 1&4 TDC. Two bolts go through the injection pump pulley and into the bracket, and one bolt goes through the camshaft pulley and into the head. You must fit these, as it is very easy indeed to get one of the pulleys a tooth out. Haynes BOL is reasonably accurate for this job.
I would recommend changing the coolant pump while you are there unless it looks very new indeed. The tensioner rollers are usually fine, just give them a spin and see what they sound like. Any rough-running or play means change them.
Luckily you have the earlier type of cambelt covers that clip on. These are easy compared to the later bolt-on ones.
You will undoubtedly find that the turbo inlet pipe above the cambelt guard will get completely in the way. I recommend removing the intercooler (2 minute job) and tieing the turbo feed and outlet hoses out of the way, it makes more room.
Otherwise, a straightforward job. Make sure the jack you use to hold the engine up while the mounting is removed cannot slip, as not ony are you likely to injure yourself, the alternator/power steering pump will go through the rad, which doesn't come highly recommended!
David.

ssm · Post by **ssm** » 23 Apr 2005, 17:12

thanks mate - yes i have got , and read the manual, trust me i have read it over and over again, the more i read it the more convinced i am i should go for it, i shall change everything as a matter of course, now all i need is the time, probabley next weekend but i shall certinaly post results, thanks again
ssm

np · Post by np » 23 Apr 2005, 20:56

All the garages quoted me 4 hrs labour to change just the cam belt on my Xantia.Room is very tight on the Xantia,might be better on a 405.Gives you an idea of time scale though.Good luck.

PowerLee · Post by **PowerLee** » 23 Apr 2005, 22:38

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by np

All the garages quoted me 4 hrs labour to change just the cam belt on my Xantia.Room is very tight on the Xantia,might be better on a 405.Gives you an idea of time scale though.Good luck.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I thought the room under the bonnet of my 405 was a little tight, That was untill I looked under a Xantias bonnet.
I wouldnt want to work under the bonnet on a Xantia, A 405s bad enough some times, lol

np · Post by np » 24 Apr 2005, 01:10

Its not too bad,once you get to know your way around!Been service it today,along with glowplugs.Dont know what Xantia you looked at,but if you thought that was bad,try having alook at a 2.1TD engined Xantia.The whole engine has to come out to take the head off,as you cant get to the bolts!!!

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 24 Apr 2005, 05:11

A lot depends on what you have fitted to said 405. One with aircon and ABS is not much fun at all, as the engine bay is very full indeed.
Has anyone ever seen the FSO thingy with the 1.9D engine in it? possibly the easiest cambelt change of any XUD installation ever!

np · Post by np » 24 Apr 2005, 05:34

Rear wheel drive,engine mounted longd.....[:I][:)]Cant spell it![:I].Lods of room at the front.About the only good thing about it![:o)][:D]
An ex`s Dad used to have one.The engine was still going after the car fell to bits.It did get a fair old bit of abuse though.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 24 Apr 2005, 14:22

Longitudinally? something like that anyway! I've often thought the gearbox from that would allow a 1.9TD engine to be installed in a rear-wheel-drive kit car of some sort. Any clue as to what it was?

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 25 Apr 2005, 00:04

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fastandfurryous

Doing this job, you must time the engine.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Not if you mark the belt and pulleys (tippex). transfer the markings to the new belt, then replace the belt so the markings on the pulleys line up with those on the new belt.
Much easier.