ARrgh the door won't open!!!

mattpc · Post by **mattpc** » 21 Apr 2005, 00:07

left rear xantia door will not open. The lock doesn't move up and down with the central locking and whatever position the lock is in the door will not open!!!!
What shall I do?[}:)]

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 21 Apr 2005, 01:28

Strip the door to access the lock mechanism. Then service the lock.

mattpc · Post by **mattpc** » 21 Apr 2005, 01:51

good thinking, out with the Haynes this sunday then....

dan.2cv · Post by **dan.2cv** » 21 Apr 2005, 02:51

I've often wondered how I would get the bootlid open in this situation, as the trim only comes off with the tailgate open.

mrbump · Post by **mrbump** » 21 Apr 2005, 17:21

Hi,
Ive jsut had both the zx and 405 fail mot's for the same prob. New legislation came in last year that means the front doors MUST open form both inside and out, and rear doors (and boot if hatch) must open from EITHER inside or out.
Gutted because the 405 and zx have always had one door that didnt open and it never bothered me.[}:)]
Managed to get the zx door open by stripping from iside and spraying with wd40 or similer and then working the inside handle cable. Left lock soaking in thinners/diesel/turps and all is well now. It seems that its the pin that should drop down to lock the catch in place that gets stuck. I've also had the other zx rear door sitck with the pin in the up position, meaning the door wouldnt shut!! Had to drive 50 miles home with gaffa tape holding it shut.[B)]
The 405 looks like it might get eventaully scrapped for this reason....[:(]
The lock wont budge. Im getting to the point of thinking about cutting (grinding) a hole in the door from the outside and just getting really rough with it. A new door should only cost about £30.
Unless that is, as I am hoping there is an easier answer????
For all our sakes Matt!!!![:D]
Maybe yours is just the solenoid though. Can you hear the solenid clicking on that door? If it isnt, you can access it from the inside of the door without removing the lock and jsut replace it, or first put your hand on it and operate the c/l and see if you can feel it moving. It seems this might be the problem as the finger lock is not moving.
I would check that first.
Cheers
Greg

mattpc · Post by **mattpc** » 21 Apr 2005, 17:43

Cheers for the advise Greg. I certainly don't want to scrap my car as I spend good money keeping it maintained. Eg, 4x Goodyear Hydragrip £200 inc fitting, Hydaflush Treatment £65, new set of spheres £150, new pads and disks £100, Forte Stopleak £20, Timing Belt £125 + normal servicing procedures. Knocked up 17k in it since I bought it last June and really want to keep on the road as long as possible. I shall have to pull the door to bits this sunday I think...

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 21 Apr 2005, 18:16

Take the rear seat out on that side other whise you will distroy the door card trying to get it off. also move the front seat as far forward as possible.
Andy

mattpc · Post by **mattpc** » 22 Apr 2005, 22:21

Fixed! The day after I noticed this I tipped a load of WD40 down the lock (the mechanism you push up and down) and 5 days later the door has started working again perfectly[:D]