More zx trouble

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Bodger
Posts: 14
Joined: 19 Sep 2002, 18:23
Location: United Kingdom
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More zx trouble

Post by Bodger »

Oh dear this is embarrasing, more trouble. I thought of posting under a different name but my questions are so stupid you would know me instantly.
Question 1 Looking at the coolant I think it needs changing. The manual advises that this "delicate operation should be carried out by a dealer" is the process problematic? there is a tap thing at the bottom of thr radiator I thought I would just emty that and then top up as per earlier posts here. Am i missing something?
Question 2. Had a tyre changed yesterday where the 'steering bush' problem was found at kwikfit. They also said a nut was missing and it was'nt inside the wheel trim when they took it off. The bolt the nut goes on to has broken off!
I find it odd that the nut was not in the trim there seeems to be no space for it to fall outI am beginning to suspect they must have bust it when changing the tyre.
Question 2 I assume this will mean stripping the hub down will this be expensive?
Question 3 Does anyone know anyone who knows less about cars than me so I could sell it to them?
Groan..........
Bodger
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RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

Bodger,
What engine does your ZX have?
Changing the coolant is not too difficult, but getting the air out afterwards can be - especially on diesels. I am not sure about the exact layout of the ZX, but Citroen quite often finish with the filler cap lower than the highest point in the coolant system so you need to bodge up a header tank to allow you get the water high enough to displace the air. Basically it's a case of open the drain tap, the pour new coolant in the top - however, if it looks really rusty/muddy then you need to flush it out. You can use one of the products you can get from Halfords or similar - just follow the instructions. You will also need to back flush the radiator and block using a hosepipe to get the crap and sludge out. The trouble with this operation is that you may dislodge enough sludge to start some leaks - I understand that ZX heater matrices are particularly prone to damage, and a git to change.
Ref the nut question - have a look at the bolt - if it is shiny then it broke recently ie when the tyres were changed. I doubt KF will do anything, just say well it was rusted up and would have broken anyway. If it is a stud, it's probably just knocked in from the back, and it should be possible to drive it out, and probably without removing the hub. If it's a bolt, then it may be possible to get it out with a stud extractor or easy-out, but more likely it will have to be drilled out and retapped or helicoiled. Best bet here would be a new hub from a scrapyard, as the hub will probably have to come off to be drilled out.
The steering bush is probably the hardydisc - a flat rubber bush that joins the upper and lower columns near the steering rack. I guess if it disintegrated then you might lose steering, but if it was dodgy it should have failed its last MOT.
Get the car down to your local back street garage and get them to have a look at it. They exist because they offer a good value for money service, rather than just relying on people bringing their cars to the main dealer.
Richard
Bodger
Posts: 14
Joined: 19 Sep 2002, 18:23
Location: United Kingdom
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Post by Bodger »

Thanks Richard, I really do appreciate the advice I have got here. (If you need to know an answer to an MS Office problem ask me thats my area!)
I have a good list of stuff to try but the MOT is due i 3 days and car tax. I have looked at a citroen today to replace this, which I was going to do in about 6 months. Posting about a Xantia above!
If I don't buy it I will try some of this stuff at the weekend.
Thanks
davethewheel
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Post by davethewheel »

have just changed the coolant in my zxtd today ,haynes manual suggests you will need to make up a header tank as the cap is lower than some of the pipe work, personally i dont bother with this just drain from the plug at bottom of rad the refill with coolant and water (recomend Citroen anti gel and spring water to keep every thing tip top)restart engine and open bleed valves one is on a small pipe on right hand side of cylinder head, the other is on the left hand side high up near the back of the engine,also make sure the heater control is on hot the rev the engine untill water comes out of the bleed valves then close them ,sometimes you have to repeat this a couple of times to remove all the air ,i have used this method a few times and had no problems,i also check the level after a short drive dave
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