ZX cambelt questions

uhn113x · Unread post by **uhn113x** » 23 Mar 2005, 14:09

Hi Folks
Just about to do mine - I have done a couple of BX ones before, but did not replace the crank pulley bolt; do you all think that this needs to be replaced? Also, anything else I need to watch?
This is the second belt (133,000) so I am replacing the water pump and belt tensioner.
TIA

AlWilliams · Unread post by **AlWilliams** » 23 Mar 2005, 15:48

Hi,
Just done mine last weekend when the engine was out, with advice from a family mechanic[:)] The crank pully bold shouldnt need replacing, as long as it's torqued up well and depending on your fancy with a drop or two of threadlock.
The only thing I came up against was old paper WP gasket masking its self as the surface of the block. I would expect all traces of it to be hard to spot with the engine in situe, a good dab of liquid gasket or silicone type sealant would help.
Fairly easy job in all, if you ignore taking the engine out in the first place[;)]

davek-uk · Unread post by **davek-uk** » 23 Mar 2005, 16:25

My second belt change (125k miles) is due to be done next week. Like you I plan to change the water pump and tensioners. At the same time I'm planning on changing the thermostat and the cam and crank seals. Hopefully this will cover failures for another 50k miles - now, what are the chances of 175k miles without having the headgasket go?
I've ordered my long list from GSF Bristol and now, together with rear spheres, I have to part with nearly £175. Ouch!! But thank God for this forum and thank God for DIY.

ralph · Unread post by **ralph** » 23 Mar 2005, 17:40

amen to that!

Unread post by **RichardW** » 23 Mar 2005, 18:00

Crank pulley bolt is a couple of quid, and comes ready fitted with thread lock. Given that it's an angle tightened device, and it coming undone or breaking doesn't bear thinking about, probably worth investing in a new one!
Watch out for the bolt down the back of the top cover that is well hidden, and a different size (11mm) to all the others (10mm) - on a Xantia it's almost impossible to get out without removing the turbo hoses (which in turn is almost impossible) - should be a bit easier on the ZX due to different hose arrangements.
I've got to do both the Xantia and ZX when the weather improves, and I stop ripping parts of the house out and replacing them.

uhn113x · Unread post by **uhn113x** » 23 Mar 2005, 18:40

Thanks, guys. On balance I think I will replace the bolt. I will not be removing the engine to do the job - too big a lump compared to an A-Series or GSA!

Marlon65 · Unread post by **Marlon65** » 22 May 2005, 16:52

I had my timing belt replaced (ZX 1.4 '95) for the first time at 150K and the dealer
replaced the pulley also without even asking me. Anyway, I asked for the old belt and the
pulley, which the shop gave to me without protesting. I noticed that the belt was still
in great shape at 150K and I told myself that maybe I should not have had it replaced.
The thing is, it's my first car and when I heard somebody that the timing belt has to be
replaced every 100K, I listened.
Here's the kicker. After about 2 years, at 200K, the car suddenly died out in the middle
of the road. I kept on clicking the ignition but the engine wouldn't start. It was
cranking alright but there was a different sound with it, and the cranking was a bit
faster than usual. Anyway, I had it towed to the nearest shop and when the mechanic
removed belt's cover, the belt was still intact or in good condition. The mechanic came
to know, and so myself, that the pulley became loose, and eventually became out of
timing. Good thing nothing was damaged in the engine.
Obviously, the mechanic who replaced the belt for the first time at 150K didn't tight the
pulley's bolt enough. But how come it took 2 years (at 200K) before this happened. I can
only guess.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 22 May 2005, 23:16

you dont need to replace bolt,it is not a torque bolt so it dont stetch like head bolts just need small drop of locktight regards malcolm

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 22 May 2005, 23:41

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by citronut</i>

you dont need to replace bolt,it is not a torque bolt so it dont stetch like head bolts just need small drop of locktight regards malcolm
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
- and to get it off with minimum efforts : let engine run with normal working temperature for minimum 15minutes - to soften the Locktite on the bolt.

arry_b · Unread post by **arry_b** » 23 May 2005, 01:34

Prepare yoursele with a window scraper - the type that holds a Stanley knife blade. Use this to remove the (very baked on) water pump gasket from the block.
You could waste days otherwise.