Xantia Strut Plates

stevieboy1 · Post by **stevieboy1** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:13

While changing the brake pads i looked at the plates which connect the top of the front struts to the inner wings, they are cracked about half way round[:0][:0]
Is it an easy job[?]
Do i just undo the nut on top of the strut, tap the rod through, unbolt the plate and refit[?]
I've looked in the BOL and it says i have to remove the whole strut[:0]
Any advise would be greatly receive
Steve

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:19

No big deal removing the complete strut - no reason for the [:0] icon.
It depends on how far down you have to push the strut rod for access. It may pay to remove the strut complete anyway.
The top nut may be the worst part ...
Remove the droplink and the leak-off hose.
Then loosen the clamp nut at the hub to free the strut here.
That's about it.

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:21

Unfortunately, the "plate" is permenantly attached to the upper strut mount - the lump of cast iron to which the sphere is attached - and they cost an arm & a leg!. The job itself isn't so difficult, and it definitely needs doing, otherwise you'll soon have a funny shaped bonnet! (if the plate rust through or cracks right through, the entire weight of that corner of the car forces the strut up into the bonnet! It takes no more than 1h a side and involves depressurising the hydraulic system, removing sphere, unbolting strut piston rod from strut mounting, unbolting the strut top/plate and refitting the new one. Make sure you get the right strut top - there are a number of different versions - only the correct one will fit properly!
//NiSk

Richard Gallagher · Post by **Richard Gallagher** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:25

Threat this job as very urgent as the strut will be pushed up into the bonnet.
Changing these struts is very easy compared with a normal 'metal-spring' car because you can release the tension without resorting to spring compressors.
I would think that it would be more hassle than its worth to try and change the plate with the strut still in situ.
Release the hydraulic pressure, undo and remove the bottom strut bolt, remove the hydraulic pipe, remove the four nuts securing the strut plate, the strut can then be removed.

ACTIVE8 · Post by **ACTIVE8** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:33

Is it unusual for these plates to crack like this ?

stevieboy1 · Post by **stevieboy1** » 10 Mar 2005, 03:36

Thanks guys, luckily not at work tomorrow so off down scrap yard, do these parts have numbers on if there are different versions or is it easier to get a complete strut assembly?
Cheers
Steve

sbraud · Post by **sbraud** » 10 Mar 2005, 13:11

Yes my O/S plate cracked full 180 at front. More due to corrosion than stress, I think, but or course could be both. Did mine last month. As Richard says, it’s relatively easy. I’m going to seal around plate when weather improves.[;)]
Whilst looking for replacement I noticed our hosts only list one Xantia strut, so concluded they’re generic. So you should be OK to get another without too much compatibility stress, although I’m sure wiser heads will correct me if I’m wrong.[:I]
When looking for replacement, make sure it travels it full length smoothly, without sticking or warping and watch for leaks (LHM residue on outside down strut) and that when you cover ends (return pipe & sphere hole) that it holds pressure.
Cheers
Steve

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 10 Mar 2005, 14:19

This is a fault that the Xantia inherited from the XM. It's due to incomplete bonding of the rubber to the pressed steel plate, or poor rustproofing of the plate before final manufacture. If you go looking for a replacement at a scrappies, make sure the top plate and strut match - ther are difference in the coning at the top of the piston rod, and the size of the hydraulic pipe connection varies depending on if the car has Hydractiv or not.
There have been a number of comments about this problem recently, so it looks like it's going to turn into a full-blown problem just like it did with the XM. So much so that an engineering firm over here in Sweden started making repair sets for them!
//NiSk

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 10 Mar 2005, 16:47

The plates on both of my Xantias look rusty.
When I changed the spheres recently on the '97, they got covered in LHM which will probably have rust proofed them to some degree....

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 10 Mar 2005, 17:15

On the XM you can tell when they are going by prodding with a sharp screwdriver blade - on mine ('93 TD12) half the circumferance was rusted away after a little prodding. The Xantia seems to be even more dangerous - if the first sign is cracking, I wouldn't want to prod too hard!
//NiSk