Braking system?

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Twiss
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Braking system?

Post by Twiss »

Hi People
I have a 93 (8/1993) ZX Aura with rear drums.
could any body tell me if it has a girling or a bendix system?
need to know as i need new adjusters and i dont have have time till the weekend to jack the car up and look at the drum it self.
Thanks
Vaughn
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

I had problems with an identical Bendix system on my Renault 21 and was able to get the adjusters working again by dismantling and cleaning thoroughly. First time I did it I assembled dry and they didn't work properly but were find with a dab of grease on the thread and nut thrust face.
So far as I know there is no way of determining if they are Bendix or Girling except by examination.
jeremy
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

just to confuse you further you may find its Bosch!
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... C_ID=10647
jeremy
Twiss
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Post by Twiss »

Just athought Did the bendix system come on later models ? meaning was the girling system around first ? if so when did the bendix system get put on the ZX?
arry_b
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Post by arry_b »

The self adjusters can be done manually,
How to adjust the rear drum brakes with a screwdriver through the wheel bolt hole:
Safely chock front wheels
Remove a rear wheel nut
Jack up that wheel
Release handbrake
Rotate wheel so you can see the adjuster rachet through the hole (torch needed)
Using a thin, stiff screwdriver wind the adjuster open by pushing on the flat side of the self adjuster teeth (you'll know what I mean when you see it). You're trying to expose more thread by doing this
Spin the wheel to make sure it rotates OK
Repeat until the shoes are lightly rubbing the drum
Put the wheel nut back in
Lower car to ground
Repeat on the other side
Followed by:
Drive car, and marvel at how good the back brakes are
Remind self to get around to stripping and re-greasing the front calipers, as they're now embarassed by how good the backs are....
wilkobob
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Post by wilkobob »

Self adjusters are quite easy to repair. Remove the wheel and drum, then have a look at the adjuster. See if it will turn with a flat screwdriver. If it does, then its good news, if not remove the adjuster set up, and free it all up (wants to be very free). Once all back on the car, theres a metal L shaped bit that adjusts it all, pull it towards you, and bend the small part that does the adjusting back in. Push L shaped part back on and hey presto, working self adjuster.
I have done this on 5 different cars now, and all with great results.
Did the hand brake cable on mine last weekend, and decided it would be a good time to sort out the adjusters (poor rear brakes since I got the car 7 months ago). Used above procedure, and the brakes are great, good working hand brake (no binding either!) and the foot brake is a hell of a lot better.
As for the Girling Bendix Dilema, the rear wheel cylinders are mounted to the back plate with 2 bolts. They are mounted in an either oval or round hole. Round ones are Bendix, oval ones are Girling.
jeremy
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Post by jeremy »

I didn't mention it before but be careful with the adjustment of these rear brakes.
these cars have a diagonally split braking system - ie 1 front and the opposite back on one circuit. Lovely you say and normally it is. however on my renault 21 with this system I suddenly found that I appeared to have no brakes on leaving a motorway! - in fact there was a little at the bottom of the pedal. When I pulled up - yes thats right - one back brake was smoking and it had boiled the fluid and one circuit had collapsed.
The nice part is that if both stick - both circuits can collapse - and that could happen if you leave the handbrake on!
new fluid helps - boils at a higher temperature!
jeremy
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Post by RichardW »

Of course you might find, like I did, that some other muppet has been there before you and:
1. Mashed the thread on the stub axle (still haven't worked out how!)
2. Badly assembled the shoes such that one has gone crooked and gouged a big ridge out of the drum, then dropped off the cylinder causing it to pop out
3. Managed to lose the L-plates off the adjusters from both sides (which you don't figure out until you've spent 90 minutes stripping and cleaning the adjusters and trying to figure out why they STILL don't work!)
This muppetry will be compounded by:
1. Struggling to find someone who can make new brake pipes after both have sheared off while trying to remove the cylinders
2. Struggling to find someone with a press on Saturday morning to put the new wheel bearings in the drums, who is not stacked out, as it's the first pay weekend in January and everybody is having their car serviced.
3. Not having a hope of getting the car in the garage as the 'project' has a sezed brake and cannot be moved, and the rest of the garage is full of part built / dismantled kitchen.
4. Finding same muppet has also been at the front brakes and sheared the bleed nipple off one of the calipers (still haven't bled that side, but it feels OK!)
On the up side, GSF Glasgow had the adjusters in stock, and it didn't rain (or snow) for the weekend whilst I was doing the job :-)
Boy, I enjoyed that job.
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