306TD starting problems
Moderator: RichardW
306TD starting problems
Hello all,
When starting my car i get a lot of smoke, i have changed all the glow plugs with NGK ones, adjusted all sims to correct gap, played with the idea of pumping the primming bulb till its hard and using the glow plug light a couple of times but it's still a problem. once the engine has started it sounds lumpy like it is only running on three cylinders, after a few secconds its fine and all the smoke stops, does not smoke while driving and i still get good MPG.could the injectors be at fault? could one maybe drip diesel into a cylinder while stopped but on start up the fuel begin to burn off.
P.S no smoke if engine is restarted within two to three hours of last start up
any advive would be great
When starting my car i get a lot of smoke, i have changed all the glow plugs with NGK ones, adjusted all sims to correct gap, played with the idea of pumping the primming bulb till its hard and using the glow plug light a couple of times but it's still a problem. once the engine has started it sounds lumpy like it is only running on three cylinders, after a few secconds its fine and all the smoke stops, does not smoke while driving and i still get good MPG.could the injectors be at fault? could one maybe drip diesel into a cylinder while stopped but on start up the fuel begin to burn off.
P.S no smoke if engine is restarted within two to three hours of last start up
any advive would be great
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Hi,
I had the same problem with my 97 R reg D Turbo.
I changed the glow plugs, had the injectors reconed, compression tested etc and still had the problem.
The problem disappeared on mine after the turbo was reconditioned so I belive that was causing the problem on mine!
Are you using genuine glow plugs? some times the non genuine don't get to temperature quick enough - try waiting about 10 to 15 seconds after the dash light has gone out then start the car and see if this helps.
Hope this might help.
I had the same problem with my 97 R reg D Turbo.
I changed the glow plugs, had the injectors reconed, compression tested etc and still had the problem.
The problem disappeared on mine after the turbo was reconditioned so I belive that was causing the problem on mine!
Are you using genuine glow plugs? some times the non genuine don't get to temperature quick enough - try waiting about 10 to 15 seconds after the dash light has gone out then start the car and see if this helps.
Hope this might help.
Hi All
I have a similar problem on my 405 TD Est.
Smoke is blue on start up (first one of the day, all others are ok), which I assume to be oil and yet oil level never needs topping up between 6,000 services.
Garage say it is likley to be a drip of oil via the valve collars which do harden up, replacement is a 'head off' job so bear with it until the 'head' needs to come off.
So I would ask True/False?
Cheers
Jake
I have a similar problem on my 405 TD Est.
Smoke is blue on start up (first one of the day, all others are ok), which I assume to be oil and yet oil level never needs topping up between 6,000 services.
Garage say it is likley to be a drip of oil via the valve collars which do harden up, replacement is a 'head off' job so bear with it until the 'head' needs to come off.
So I would ask True/False?
Cheers
Jake
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most of the XUD series engines start lumpy,i would say its one of the characturistics of the engine,sometimes the seats stick in the injectors slighty causing fuel to dribble into the cylinders over night.9 times out of 10 when you take them to a diesel specialist there is nothing wrong with them.have you tried a good diesel fuel cleaner in your tank yet? its the cheapest option,as injector servicing costs around £80+ .
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Hi
Have had my injectors reconditioned a while back and am a regular user of Redex.
Last week though on a recommendation I tried Millers Diesel Power Plus http://www.millersoils.net/index2.html and am impressed enough to recommend.
I use Tesco to fill up and using Millers for over 300miles have noticed a difference in acceleration, tickover and quicker & smoother running from cold, especially with the weather we have had over the past week!
Blue smoke still there at start up though, which I guess will stick with untill the head comes off!
Cheers, Jake
Have had my injectors reconditioned a while back and am a regular user of Redex.
Last week though on a recommendation I tried Millers Diesel Power Plus http://www.millersoils.net/index2.html and am impressed enough to recommend.
I use Tesco to fill up and using Millers for over 300miles have noticed a difference in acceleration, tickover and quicker & smoother running from cold, especially with the weather we have had over the past week!
Blue smoke still there at start up though, which I guess will stick with untill the head comes off!
Cheers, Jake
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If it is a bit of oil getting past the valve stem oil seals, then this is not a bad thing. When I had the head off my 1994 405 TD, the valve stem seals had been doing such a good job that the guides were completely bone dry and worn out (like 1-2mm of play at the valve head!!) Rather than having the guides changed for identical units, I opted for the earlier style, which have no stem seals. This allows a little bit of oil to run down the stems and lubricate them. The car does now put out the tinyest of tiny whiffs of blue smoke on startup, but it lasts about half a nano-second, and I am happy that my valve guides are not being eaten away.
If it does turn out to be crusty valve stem seals, they can actually be changed with the head in position, although it's not easy. It involves removing the camshaft, putting the piston at tdc, and pressing the valve face against it while removing the collets, in order to get to the seal. Because the valve face and the piston face are paralell, you don't cause any damage, but you have to be ultra careful not to rotate the crankshaft, otherwise the valve will drop into the cylinder! oops.
If it does turn out to be crusty valve stem seals, they can actually be changed with the head in position, although it's not easy. It involves removing the camshaft, putting the piston at tdc, and pressing the valve face against it while removing the collets, in order to get to the seal. Because the valve face and the piston face are paralell, you don't cause any damage, but you have to be ultra careful not to rotate the crankshaft, otherwise the valve will drop into the cylinder! oops.