BX engine removal
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Dave Bamber
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- x 2
BX engine removal
The engine and box need to come out of the red BX shortly, do they lift out or drop out the bottom? I did the 205 last year and dropped it down. I'd prefer to lift out so I don't have to disturb the hydraulics under the gearbox, is it possible?
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Jon
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Dave Bamber
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- x 2
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alan s
- RIP 2010
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- Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
- x 6
Pity you weren't a bit closer, I'd lend you my engine crane.
I could send it across, but as the ram alone goes 80< Kgs and the whole thing took 4 men to lift into the back of the Xantia when I bought it, I suppose the postage might get a bit high.[:0]
Incidentally, can you post and let us know if you forget that hydraulic steel line that runs under the engine and stretch from a coil to a straight pipe before you remember to disconnect it please? It'll make us feel oh so much better; knowing it's not just us that always forgets it[V][:p]
If my memory serves me correctly (I'll have to ask my "memory" when I speak to him later) I think we came out the top but reinstalled from underneath; this may only be applicable to the 16V though.
Alan S
I could send it across, but as the ram alone goes 80< Kgs and the whole thing took 4 men to lift into the back of the Xantia when I bought it, I suppose the postage might get a bit high.[:0]
Incidentally, can you post and let us know if you forget that hydraulic steel line that runs under the engine and stretch from a coil to a straight pipe before you remember to disconnect it please? It'll make us feel oh so much better; knowing it's not just us that always forgets it[V][:p]
If my memory serves me correctly (I'll have to ask my "memory" when I speak to him later) I think we came out the top but reinstalled from underneath; this may only be applicable to the 16V though.
Alan S
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Dave Bamber
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DLM
- Posts: 524
- Joined: 13 Aug 2001, 03:01
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Up on the BX. You have to prop the bonnet well back though<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Or remove the bonnet altogether by unbolting it from the hinges. If the TXD's a metal-bonnetted one (as it almost certainly is) then there's no risk of pulling studs out, as there is on the plastic ones. In fact it may be bolts rather than nuts, come to think of it, as the plastic and metal bonnets aren't interchangeable unless you keep the complete hinge assemblies in place.
What is the black one, Dave? Or should I just check it out on bxclub.co.uk?
Or remove the bonnet altogether by unbolting it from the hinges. If the TXD's a metal-bonnetted one (as it almost certainly is) then there's no risk of pulling studs out, as there is on the plastic ones. In fact it may be bolts rather than nuts, come to think of it, as the plastic and metal bonnets aren't interchangeable unless you keep the complete hinge assemblies in place.
What is the black one, Dave? Or should I just check it out on bxclub.co.uk?
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oilyspanner
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vanny
- Posts: 767
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Or better still take the box off first! If you want to do an all in one lift make triple sure you can undo the gearbox mounting bolt out of the gearbox housing first! If you cant then it make getting the engine out near impossible and you WILL cry! The hour getting the box off is well worth it since you have to drop the drive shafts out anyways! Dont be tempted to just leave the drive shafts dangling, unbolt and completely remove them, its expensive if you dont 
Get the rad out immediately after the bonnet is off! It might seem obvious but taking more things off is easier AND QUICKER than trying to just lift the whole engine because you'll inevitably get stuck trying to move everything rather than little bits.
All this said you CAN take the engine out the bottom if you happen to have ramps etc its pretty easy, but in a normal garage its not really worth the effort!
Get the rad out immediately after the bonnet is off! It might seem obvious but taking more things off is easier AND QUICKER than trying to just lift the whole engine because you'll inevitably get stuck trying to move everything rather than little bits.
All this said you CAN take the engine out the bottom if you happen to have ramps etc its pretty easy, but in a normal garage its not really worth the effort!
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Dave Bamber
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- x 2
Thanks guys, plenty to think about.
I will remove the bonnet, which being a later one is metal.
DLM - It's the red one, a TXD via EBay. The other isn't black, it's dark green TZD bought as a donor for the TXD. Shame it's a breaker as the body and trim is sound but its mechanicaly ****ged!
Stewart - I noticed when I changed the engine on the 205 last year, when I attached the crane to the engine, It wants to tilt to the right on it's own.
Vanny - I prefer to lift the box with the engine and split it on the bench. The shafts will be off, I take it we don't need to poke a stick in the shaft hole (ooerr!) to support the diff? The rad will be the first thing to come out even though I scored a brand new Valeo one off EBay on Saturday for £23. It'll give me room to get the LHM gear out of the way.
Roll on the first weekend in March!
I will remove the bonnet, which being a later one is metal.
DLM - It's the red one, a TXD via EBay. The other isn't black, it's dark green TZD bought as a donor for the TXD. Shame it's a breaker as the body and trim is sound but its mechanicaly ****ged!
Stewart - I noticed when I changed the engine on the 205 last year, when I attached the crane to the engine, It wants to tilt to the right on it's own.
Vanny - I prefer to lift the box with the engine and split it on the bench. The shafts will be off, I take it we don't need to poke a stick in the shaft hole (ooerr!) to support the diff? The rad will be the first thing to come out even though I scored a brand new Valeo one off EBay on Saturday for £23. It'll give me room to get the LHM gear out of the way.
Roll on the first weekend in March!
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Jon
Vanny is quite right about removing the gearbox stud, once this obstruction is out of the way, its so much easier to pull the box out! If we are in luck then a big pair of Stilsons belted with a hammer usually shifts it. In the case of "Project BX" we got out the Oxy-Ace to "warm" the gearbox casing, it just would not shift until then. (Loctited)
No doubt Dave and I will improvise in some way [:D] e.g. cigarette lighters etc, ha!
No doubt Dave and I will improvise in some way [:D] e.g. cigarette lighters etc, ha!
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Dave Bamber
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- x 2
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jon</i>
No doubt Dave and I will improvise in some way [:D] e.g. cigarette lighters etc, ha!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Nah, good curry then breathe on it!
No doubt Dave and I will improvise in some way [:D] e.g. cigarette lighters etc, ha!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Nah, good curry then breathe on it!
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alan s
- RIP 2010
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- Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 15:53
- x 6
BTW, we used a gadget on ours that I think was from "Snap-on."
It fits on the hook end of the engine crane & has a big thread attached to two arms with short chains attached. By winding the handle(s?) to adjust, it allows the engine to be lifted at whatever angle you need without all the usual grunting, snorting, flatulating (thinking about that curry) and swearing. The best bit is that left set, when it comes to refitting, it will automatically lift the engine on the precise angle used to get it out. It's something the pros use out here as it saves so much time and unnecessary damage.
I don't know what it's called, but it's as cheap as chips; a good investment.
Alan S
It fits on the hook end of the engine crane & has a big thread attached to two arms with short chains attached. By winding the handle(s?) to adjust, it allows the engine to be lifted at whatever angle you need without all the usual grunting, snorting, flatulating (thinking about that curry) and swearing. The best bit is that left set, when it comes to refitting, it will automatically lift the engine on the precise angle used to get it out. It's something the pros use out here as it saves so much time and unnecessary damage.
I don't know what it's called, but it's as cheap as chips; a good investment.
Alan S
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Dave Bamber
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- x 2
A load leveller, here's one.......
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.as ... 2050&g=107
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.as ... 2050&g=107