Hi,
I was hoping somebody might have suffered the same problem I currently have...
The driver door lock of my N reg AX (with central locking) is jammed in an unlocked state. The key turns to the left but does not lock the door. It will not turn to the right at all. The passenger door lock seems fine but the central locking will not stay locked as the driver door lock refuses to budge.
I can't push the driver door button down either. Have looked inside but its very difficult to see any problem.
Has anyone got any suggestions?
Thanks.
AX Front Door Lock Jammed
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AndersDK
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Lewis M
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 Feb 2005, 18:37
Thanks for the advice Anders.
I have now stripped the door down and had a look inside. I tried some spray oil on the mechanisam but had no luck.
Could the problem be the central locking actuator? - I can't move the rod it connects to up/down. If this is the case does this part come separately or do I need a whole new lock?
I have now stripped the door down and had a look inside. I tried some spray oil on the mechanisam but had no luck.
Could the problem be the central locking actuator? - I can't move the rod it connects to up/down. If this is the case does this part come separately or do I need a whole new lock?
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
Actuators are replaceable, GSF may sell them, alternatives are scrap or generic. I think there are 2 types - 2 wire for non locked doors (ie back) and 5 wire for doors with a lock - ie front.
generic are fun to fit as there are internal switches and these have to be got the right way round. Proper ones will simply plug in.
There is a possibility if you take yours off you may be able to free it as it sounds as though it is stuck. If switches have gone the thing will unlock itself after locking and do other strange things.
jeremy
generic are fun to fit as there are internal switches and these have to be got the right way round. Proper ones will simply plug in.
There is a possibility if you take yours off you may be able to free it as it sounds as though it is stuck. If switches have gone the thing will unlock itself after locking and do other strange things.
jeremy
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Lewis M
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 Feb 2005, 18:37
Thanks Jeremy
I had a try at removing the actuator last night - I have never attempted such an awkward job.
Two problems:
1) I cant seem to disconnect the rod between the actuator and the lock/unlock button. Is this possible?
2) I cannot make out how the actuator is attached to the door. Is it a case of removing the whole lock assembly?
Anybody know the answers to this? It my first car so I'm not that mechanically experienced yet, although I am beginning to feel like I will be soom.
I had a try at removing the actuator last night - I have never attempted such an awkward job.
Two problems:
1) I cant seem to disconnect the rod between the actuator and the lock/unlock button. Is this possible?
2) I cannot make out how the actuator is attached to the door. Is it a case of removing the whole lock assembly?
Anybody know the answers to this? It my first car so I'm not that mechanically experienced yet, although I am beginning to feel like I will be soom.
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2
BX and generic are fitted by 2 screws through the plastic body and unhook from the mechanism (Twist round when loose until plastic operating arm (which shoots in and out of the body when it works) disengages from the control rod.
generic may bolt straight in or need new holes, should come with about 1 ft of spring steel rod for you to make your own control rod if necessary.
jeremy
generic may bolt straight in or need new holes, should come with about 1 ft of spring steel rod for you to make your own control rod if necessary.
jeremy
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Lewis M
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 Feb 2005, 18:37
Completely removed all lock/handle components. The actuator was ok - must have been prevented from moving by mechanism. Its seems that the source of all the problems was that the clip holding the lock barrel had fallen off, this meant the rod between the lock barrel and the lock mechanism was loose and was not moving enough to engage the actuator.
Rebuilt the whole thing and it worked... until the lock barrel came loose (because the clip fell off) and jammed the mechanism again!
Have removed the mechanism and am trying to work out how the clip fits on to the lock barrel.
The clip is a square shape with one side open. It also has a small edge turned at right angles to the main body of the clip.
I cannot figure out how the clip holds the lock barrel.
Does anybody know if the clip slides on from the top/bottom/left/right?
Does the small turned up edge face the outside of the door or the inside of the car?
Should I be forcing the clip or should I expect it to slide on without too much trouble?
I know these sound like stupid questions but I have spent an hour trying to work this out and its not obvious to me.
If anybody knows where I could get an exploded drawing of the lock this might help - my Haynes manual doesn't have much on this.
Thank you in advance.
Rebuilt the whole thing and it worked... until the lock barrel came loose (because the clip fell off) and jammed the mechanism again!
Have removed the mechanism and am trying to work out how the clip fits on to the lock barrel.
The clip is a square shape with one side open. It also has a small edge turned at right angles to the main body of the clip.
I cannot figure out how the clip holds the lock barrel.
Does anybody know if the clip slides on from the top/bottom/left/right?
Does the small turned up edge face the outside of the door or the inside of the car?
Should I be forcing the clip or should I expect it to slide on without too much trouble?
I know these sound like stupid questions but I have spent an hour trying to work this out and its not obvious to me.
If anybody knows where I could get an exploded drawing of the lock this might help - my Haynes manual doesn't have much on this.
Thank you in advance.
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oilyspanner
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 26 Oct 2003, 16:08
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Lewis M
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 Feb 2005, 18:37
Stewart,
The clip has got an indent on the two prongs that is concave. I presume that these indents dip in towards the outer skin of the door. I'll try to bend mine before buying a new one.
Do you know which direction I should slide the clip on from and whether its supposed to be really hard to move?
Car is in great condition other that this stupid problem.
The clip has got an indent on the two prongs that is concave. I presume that these indents dip in towards the outer skin of the door. I'll try to bend mine before buying a new one.
Do you know which direction I should slide the clip on from and whether its supposed to be really hard to move?
Car is in great condition other that this stupid problem.
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Lewis M
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 Feb 2005, 18:37
Just to update anyone that might have been following this or for those who will have this problem in the future...
I replaced the clip retaining the lock barrel and also the rod linking the lock barrel to the lock mechanism. (£3 from citroen). Neither would have been necessary other than I modified them using pliers when I first thought they were to blame.
The lock still did not function properly as the rod was sliding through the hole on the lock barrel arm when I turned the key. I was missing a small plastic washer that fits into the hole in the arm of the lock barrel through which the connecting rod passes. This held the rod in place and the lock functions normally.
Amazing how the whole locking process relies on on tiny piece of plastic to function. The old one probably wore out and fell off after 10 years of use.
I only have to work out how to push the retaining clip over the lock barrel (its extremely hard to slide it on) and I can get back out on the road.
Thanks to those who helped with some advice.
I replaced the clip retaining the lock barrel and also the rod linking the lock barrel to the lock mechanism. (£3 from citroen). Neither would have been necessary other than I modified them using pliers when I first thought they were to blame.
The lock still did not function properly as the rod was sliding through the hole on the lock barrel arm when I turned the key. I was missing a small plastic washer that fits into the hole in the arm of the lock barrel through which the connecting rod passes. This held the rod in place and the lock functions normally.
Amazing how the whole locking process relies on on tiny piece of plastic to function. The old one probably wore out and fell off after 10 years of use.
I only have to work out how to push the retaining clip over the lock barrel (its extremely hard to slide it on) and I can get back out on the road.
Thanks to those who helped with some advice.
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jeremy
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: 20 Oct 2002, 16:00
- x 2