Removing TZD Head Questions

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Roscoe
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Removing TZD Head Questions

Post by Roscoe »

I'm pulling the head off my TZD as the belt idler bearing failed and as a result have a broken camshaft. I've got the Haynes manual but have a couple of questions on some things.
1. Have drained antifreeze, disconnected turbo oil/exhaust connections
2. Belt already off cams/fuel pump due to above failure, so timing marks are now irrelevant/unknown
3. Haynes tells me to put 8mm dowel/drill in flywheel hole to lock #1&4 pistons at TDC - this is fine, but I can't even see the hole behind the starter - do I need to remove the starter to do this and is it a big job?
4. What size TORX socket is needed for the head bolts - are there any other 'special' tools required?
5. Can I pull the head off with the intake/exhaust manifolds and turbo attached - is there enough physical room. I don't want to try and remove the manifolds in place if possible - I've got nightmares about broken studs!
6. Any other tricks/hints I should know about before I do this - mainly around the timing - I can't turn the engine over with the head off as it may dislodge the liners - correct? So that means the bottom end has to be in the TDC position, what about the fuel pump timing - can I then lock it in place according to haynes guidelines, and when reinstalling head/new cam then manually lock the cam before bolting down? Will that give me the correct timing to install the new belt?
Sorry for all the (possibly dumb) questions, but this the first one I've done..
oilyspanner
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Post by oilyspanner »

Remove starter to see timing hole, no wet liners, turn it as you need to, ondo turbo oil feed at both ends to get the head off complete with turbo and manifolds.
Stewart
Roscoe
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Post by Roscoe »

Thx Stewart
For some reason I thought they had wet liners and you couldn't turn the engine with the head off...glad they don't. After thinking some more about it, I don't need to lock the engine when I take the head off, only when I put it back together - just read the relevant section in Haynes tales and I just need to get the pistons in the right position before dropping the head on and then setting the cam and fuel pump timing.
I'll find out this weekend when I get back to it.
cheers, Brian
RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

Roscoe
>3. Haynes tells me to put 8mm dowel/drill in flywheel hole to lock >#1&4 pistons at TDC - this is fine, but I can't even see the hole >behind the starter - do I need to remove the starter to do this and >is it a big job?
You should be able to do it without removing the starter - get a long piece of 8mm bar and bend about 100mm up to about 15°. The hole is just above the sump / block joint, and using a long rod allows you to stand by the RH front wheel, and slide the rod in whilst turning the engine over with the wheel.
>4. What size TORX socket is needed for the head bolts - are there >any other 'special' tools required?
T55 for the head bolts. You need a 16mm deep socket to get the engine mount off.
>5. Can I pull the head off with the intake/exhaust manifolds and >turbo attached - is there enough physical room. I don't want to try >and remove the manifolds in place if possible - I've got nightmares >about broken studs!
Yes, but it's tight! Remove the engine mount and prop the engine forward with a block of wood off the bulkhead to make more room. When refitting the head, use a piece of cardboard to protect the head / block first, then when it's in position, slide the head gasket in. Otherwise it gets wrecked [xx(]
>6. Any other tricks/hints I should know about before I do this -
If your wallet can stand it, replace the three braided hoses that go down the back of the block. You don't want to be doing those the week afterwards... When reinstalling the head, make sure that the turbo oil feed goes the right side of the driveshaft before you torque the head down (experience again!). The left most 3 head bolts on the back of the head cannot be removed or fitted with the inlet manifold in place, so don't forget to fit them before you drop the head back on! Tie wrap them up to the manifold whilst you are putting the head on.
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

Timing hole is a good bit higher up than that Richard, deceiving isn't it when you have a clear view of it, instead of feeling for it.
Image
Dave
Roscoe
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Post by Roscoe »

Thanks Richard
Great information - I'll finish it off this weekend if the weather holds - car is parked outdoors as my garage is full.
cheers, Brian
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