poor starting 106 1.5d
Moderator: RichardW
poor starting 106 1.5d
my 1994 106 1.5d is a nightmare to start when cold, how do i go about testing the cold start devices, also any advice about changing a back axle on this model.
This is basically the same as the 306TD question. I would guess your glow plugs are not functioning. There are two bits, plug themself and the control box. You can test the control box using a multi meter, and seeing if there is power flowing to the plugs when the glow plug light is on.
You can remove each plug and test using heavy duty wire by connecting to a battery, but dont burn yourself. Check the polarity, e.g if the negative is connected from the battery to the body, you need to connect the negative to the main part of the plug and negative to the nut on the end. If in doubt renew the set anyway.
You can remove each plug and test using heavy duty wire by connecting to a battery, but dont burn yourself. Check the polarity, e.g if the negative is connected from the battery to the body, you need to connect the negative to the main part of the plug and negative to the nut on the end. If in doubt renew the set anyway.
You may also have air in the fuel system.
Once it's fired up, is is smooth after a few seconds, or still rough ?
Before firing up next time, try using the fuel priming bulb for a few seconds to help things, this will then be a reasonable pointer.
I'm having the same problems at the moment, only when cold, but this has started happening after a fuel filter change, so I may be getting air in one of the pipes that I disconnected ( don't ask !).
Once it's fired up, is is smooth after a few seconds, or still rough ?
Before firing up next time, try using the fuel priming bulb for a few seconds to help things, this will then be a reasonable pointer.
I'm having the same problems at the moment, only when cold, but this has started happening after a fuel filter change, so I may be getting air in one of the pipes that I disconnected ( don't ask !).
i have not tried the cold start devices yet, but i have tried your suggestion of priming the fuel bulb, and it is just the same, it does however tick over like it was only running on 3 cylinders, until it gets a good rev then seems to clear itself, i will get the glow plugs out at the weekend and see if some of them are at fault
cheers
cheers
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I usually find when starting is very difficult that 2 plugs are US. It will start on 3, but there is often a bit of smoke.
If they are difficult to remove, take the wire off from the terminal, and ask an assistant to switch on. Dab the wire onto the terminal during the pre heat cycle of about 7 secs. If it's arking then that plug is probably OK. Retighten terminal and move onto next.
Finally, pre heat as usual, turn over a bit but switch off before engine fires up. The duff plug(s) will be wet with diesel, good 'uns will have be dry. To remove you will probably need a deepish 12mm socket.
Hope you find because air leaks are more trouble.
If they are difficult to remove, take the wire off from the terminal, and ask an assistant to switch on. Dab the wire onto the terminal during the pre heat cycle of about 7 secs. If it's arking then that plug is probably OK. Retighten terminal and move onto next.
Finally, pre heat as usual, turn over a bit but switch off before engine fires up. The duff plug(s) will be wet with diesel, good 'uns will have be dry. To remove you will probably need a deepish 12mm socket.
Hope you find because air leaks are more trouble.
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On this engine, poor COLD starting is probably down to the valve clearances being too small. Thus no compression. Don't ask my why it works this way, but I did have exactly this problem on my 106, and sure enough the clearances were well below spec. Correcting this (and doing nothing else) completely cured the starting problem.
Check the glow plugs first though.
Check the glow plugs first though.
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On any diesel engine, a defined rate of rise of compression, as well as a final value of compression has to be reached or exceeded in order that the charge air temperature will be high enough to ignite the injected fuel. If the rate of rise of pressure is insufficient, heat will be conducted away via the cold pistons and cylinder head, faster than it is produced - hence no starting. This is why you need a good battery to start a diesel; a slow cranking speed will give insufficient rate of rise of compression, hence no start.
Many people waste a lot of time slow-cranking diesels, or trying to start an engine with compression related defects. Correct valve clearences are obviously vital.
rotodiesel.
Many people waste a lot of time slow-cranking diesels, or trying to start an engine with compression related defects. Correct valve clearences are obviously vital.
rotodiesel.
I have the same problem. I changed the plugs for stock plugs at my local supplier and I still have the same problem. I have checked the Valve clearances and all but one is wrong. £260 for repair by Pug Dealer.
Apart from poor starting in extremely cold temps, the car runs excellent.
Is it worth changing to beru plugs or bit the bullet and do the valve clearances?
Del
Apart from poor starting in extremely cold temps, the car runs excellent.
Is it worth changing to beru plugs or bit the bullet and do the valve clearances?
Del
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How wrong are the clearances? They are not very difficult to do on this engine, as the shims are above the followers. If the clearances are only a little out, they could be left, but a tight inlet will give poor compression and degrade starting, and a tight exhaust may burn the seat. I suggest you measure them all and report back.
In my experience, Beru plugs are the only ones worth having. They are fitted as OE (original equipment) so you should have some which still work. Test with a high current ammeter individually, in-situ on the head. A good plug will draw about 20A initially, reducing to about 7A after 5 secs. It is the action of the ptc ballast in the plug which gives this characteristic, and the rapid action. Others don't match this, or the thermal cycling performance. Generally, Beru plugs either work properly or not at all, pattern parts play all kinds of tricks due to poor ballast performance.
Check also that the waxstat cold start cable is working properly - sometimes the outer rusts up (waxoyl) or the lever sticks on the O ring at the pump (oil).
rotodiesel.
In my experience, Beru plugs are the only ones worth having. They are fitted as OE (original equipment) so you should have some which still work. Test with a high current ammeter individually, in-situ on the head. A good plug will draw about 20A initially, reducing to about 7A after 5 secs. It is the action of the ptc ballast in the plug which gives this characteristic, and the rapid action. Others don't match this, or the thermal cycling performance. Generally, Beru plugs either work properly or not at all, pattern parts play all kinds of tricks due to poor ballast performance.
Check also that the waxstat cold start cable is working properly - sometimes the outer rusts up (waxoyl) or the lever sticks on the O ring at the pump (oil).
rotodiesel.
Thanks Rotodiesel
I fitted two Beru plugs yesterday and this made a big improvement. I got the other two today, to fit soon.
The valve clearances are In=0.30 Ex=0 In=0.25 Ex=0 Ex=0 In=0.30 Ex=0 In=0.15
I removed the rocker cover which was no problem and measured the clearances but I could not depress the followers enough to remove the shims. Is there a tool which will help do this? I followed the method as indicated in the Haynes book.
Peugoet quoted £260 for the work - Ouch!
Hope this helps
Del
I fitted two Beru plugs yesterday and this made a big improvement. I got the other two today, to fit soon.
The valve clearances are In=0.30 Ex=0 In=0.25 Ex=0 Ex=0 In=0.30 Ex=0 In=0.15
I removed the rocker cover which was no problem and measured the clearances but I could not depress the followers enough to remove the shims. Is there a tool which will help do this? I followed the method as indicated in the Haynes book.
Peugoet quoted £260 for the work - Ouch!
Hope this helps
Del
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Del, Don't run this engine with zero exhaust valve clearances - the seats will burn. I'm assuming that you measured them on the back of the cam, ie. cam lobe pointing upwards for each valve measured. It's not generally too difficult to change the shims if you use the cam to depress the follower, then fabricate a tool to keep the follower down by pressing on its edge whilst you turn the engine over.
One problem is that the shims stick due to the oil film. If you have an air line, they can often be loosened with a blast of air.
Remove all the glowplugs to make the engine easy to turn, and go carefully around TDC & BDC to avoid valve/piston contact. If you use gentle hand pressure on a ring spanner on the crank pulley bolt, there is little likelihood of damage.
Good luck, hope you have a warm garage.
rotodiesel.
One problem is that the shims stick due to the oil film. If you have an air line, they can often be loosened with a blast of air.
Remove all the glowplugs to make the engine easy to turn, and go carefully around TDC & BDC to avoid valve/piston contact. If you use gentle hand pressure on a ring spanner on the crank pulley bolt, there is little likelihood of damage.
Good luck, hope you have a warm garage.
rotodiesel.
- fastandfurryous
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The last one of these engines I had the head off had the worst pitting and burning on the exhaust valves I have seen in ages. If yours is anything like as bad, that may be part of why you have poor starting. When it came to re-shimming and setting the valve clearances correctly, the difference was amazing.