Strange BX problem: Red water light
Moderator: RichardW
Strange BX problem: Red water light
I have a strange problem in my BX 16v.
Riding at some rotation (normaly at 120km/h), it lights me the red light of water. If i slightly raise the foot of the pedal of the accelerator, the light is erased. The strange thing is that the car does not lose any water, and the level is ok.
I have already changed a sensor that is underneath the deposit of water, and also already changed one petty cash that detects the level water wich is located in the right side of the radiator, but the problem continues...
A friend mine also has this problem in her BX16v..
Somebody knows what it is?
Riding at some rotation (normaly at 120km/h), it lights me the red light of water. If i slightly raise the foot of the pedal of the accelerator, the light is erased. The strange thing is that the car does not lose any water, and the level is ok.
I have already changed a sensor that is underneath the deposit of water, and also already changed one petty cash that detects the level water wich is located in the right side of the radiator, but the problem continues...
A friend mine also has this problem in her BX16v..
Somebody knows what it is?
Having read some of the other posts here, I wonder if your problem is due to an old and structurally weak water pipe. Old water pipes have been known to collapse at high revs/strong acceleration. This restricts the coolant flow around the system and may be what is lighting your red water light.
I have no BX experience and this is just a thought.
I have no BX experience and this is just a thought.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by beezer</i>
Very good ItDontGo. Now write that in Portugese and see how good your grammar is!
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Certainly:
Eu penso que o carro está superaquecendo. A luz vermelha aparece quando está demasiado quente. Levantar o regulador de pressão permite que o motor refrigere um pouco. Tente nivelar o refrigerador e mudar o termostato.
Very good ItDontGo. Now write that in Portugese and see how good your grammar is!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Certainly:
Eu penso que o carro está superaquecendo. A luz vermelha aparece quando está demasiado quente. Levantar o regulador de pressão permite que o motor refrigere um pouco. Tente nivelar o refrigerador e mudar o termostato.
No offence
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ItDontGo</i>
Your English is fine and better than a lot of English people. I was only joking before and I hope you didn't take offence. I had a lot of foriegn friends at uni and they used to make me laugh when they spoke like tourists!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ItDontGo</i>
Your English is fine and better than a lot of English people. I was only joking before and I hope you didn't take offence. I had a lot of foriegn friends at uni and they used to make me laugh when they spoke like tourists!
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ItDontGo -- There's definitely an art to speaking tourist English. A colleague can get Italian/English of to a tee. LOL
No offence soupages. Good to see your posts from Portugal.
Had a very similar problem with 16V that proved problematic to solve. If you've had a recent cam belt change ?? check the radiator lower hose for any weakness, about 50-100mm out from water pump fixing. Movement of the engine during renewal weakens the hose around this area and collapses internally, as revs increase.
Check the hose from the header tank to the radiator bottom hose, running along the lower front chassis cross member, to ensure there are no dips in this section that can cause an air lock.
Fill the header tank to maximum and bleed the cooling system,with engine at normal temperature, cabin heater on full heat, then open and close rear heater pipe, radiator and two thermostat housing screws to remove all air. You may have to repeat this operation several times.
One other point you may like to check. Secure the header tank water level sensors cables to avoid any vibration as the revs increase.
R
No offence soupages. Good to see your posts from Portugal.
Had a very similar problem with 16V that proved problematic to solve. If you've had a recent cam belt change ?? check the radiator lower hose for any weakness, about 50-100mm out from water pump fixing. Movement of the engine during renewal weakens the hose around this area and collapses internally, as revs increase.
Check the hose from the header tank to the radiator bottom hose, running along the lower front chassis cross member, to ensure there are no dips in this section that can cause an air lock.
Fill the header tank to maximum and bleed the cooling system,with engine at normal temperature, cabin heater on full heat, then open and close rear heater pipe, radiator and two thermostat housing screws to remove all air. You may have to repeat this operation several times.
One other point you may like to check. Secure the header tank water level sensors cables to avoid any vibration as the revs increase.
R
I'd agree 100% about checking the bottom rad hose. The one on my TD had become very soft and was collapsing, casusing coolant to be forced out of the header tank at higher engine speeds. I was all for changing the head gasket until someone suggested this hose. I fitted a new one and its been fine since!