OK, 20k on one clutch. Can't be right!?
While my engine is turned off, the clutch pedal is really stiff half way down, and then passes that half way point and goes all the way down.
But when engine turned on, it goes fine, although with a bit of shudder in first gear.
The plates don't seem to be worn, and it's a pretty new clutch.
Both the stiffness and the shudder started at the same time, so i guess the problem must come from the same thing.
Can it be a problem with the hydraulics in the clutch, seeing as it works OK when the engine is going?
Clutch probs.
Moderator: RichardW
Did you replace the clutch as a complete kit ?
- including friction plate, release plate (housing), release bearing and the oilseal on crank (behind flywheel).
Or did you only replace some of these parts ?
In DK we have LHD cars which do not suffer from insane routings on the cables, and hence cable stiffness or wear is not a problem in general.
- including friction plate, release plate (housing), release bearing and the oilseal on crank (behind flywheel).
Or did you only replace some of these parts ?
In DK we have LHD cars which do not suffer from insane routings on the cables, and hence cable stiffness or wear is not a problem in general.
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- Location: United Kingdom
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by funkster</i>
Det var lavet i Sverige. (Lidt billiger end her). Man frygter at de har lavet det kun halvt.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Translation :
Had it done in Sweden. (Cheaper than DK labour cost). I fear only half the job was done.
Funkster :
I dont think Swedish garages would be any worse/better than DK garages. I take it would not be worth the effort trying to claim any warranty on the job, meaning you are on your own with the problems.
You need to get hands on for some simple checks.
Start off with Stuart's suggestion oiling all moving parts you can see when missus is operating the clutch pedal.
Then check if the gearbox is well secured on the engine block, all bolts torqued, no missing bolts.
Det var lavet i Sverige. (Lidt billiger end her). Man frygter at de har lavet det kun halvt.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Translation :
Had it done in Sweden. (Cheaper than DK labour cost). I fear only half the job was done.
Funkster :
I dont think Swedish garages would be any worse/better than DK garages. I take it would not be worth the effort trying to claim any warranty on the job, meaning you are on your own with the problems.
You need to get hands on for some simple checks.
Start off with Stuart's suggestion oiling all moving parts you can see when missus is operating the clutch pedal.
Then check if the gearbox is well secured on the engine block, all bolts torqued, no missing bolts.
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- Location: United Kingdom
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I have seen a number of "reconditioned" clutches fail prematurely recently, some with low mileages like yours, I will only fit OEM quality ones now, I have seen friction plates come to pieces looking like ashes, broken springs floating around inside clutch, pressure plate springs losing strength? and grooves or wear where the thrust race contacts plate, but look for the obvious first.
Stewart
Stewart